What's new: Southern-style soul at Alexandria's
Acting as my eyes and ears, she painted a picture of an "A"-list of invitees rubbing elbows in an overcrowded restaurant and spilling out onto the sidewalk. Guests sampled signature cocktails, along with jerk chicken, garlic shrimp, ribs, catfish and more, which tendered such comments as "Move over Kingfish Cafe and La Louisiana!" And "that pound cake is just like Grandma's!" My favorite, though, was from a Louisiana native who marveled with obvious delight: "The string beans are cooked!"
Clearly, there's renewed energy here where Falling Waters lived briefly before falling on its face — leaving a handsome restaurant and bar sitting vacant for what seemed like eons. Finally, someone with a great idea (and the gumption to go for it) was willing to sign a lease. Enter Jim Buchanan, who shuttered his previous restaurant, Alexandria's on Main in downtown Cleveland, in May, allowing him to relocate to Seattle bringing his chef Michael Franklin and his much-applauded menu along with him.
Intrigued, I stopped by for a drink last weekend. Unfortunately, I was too full from dining elsewhere to sample from the proffered menu. But don't think I wasn't lusting after the three-wing combo, Georgia Bank catfish strips and "Alexandria's Soul Rolls" — spring rolls stuffed with collards, black-eyed peas, red beans and rice (each $8.95). Or moved by the idea of smothered pork chops ($16.95), seafood gumbo ($26.95) and Jim's fried chicken with Belgian waffles ($15.95). Need I mention candied yams, macaroni and cheese and grits, among the many sides offered with most entrees ($4.95 a la carte)?
Seated (anonymously) at a table in the bar, an enormous, well-made cocktail in hand ($8), it was great fun watching the dining room empty out and the late-night crowd come and go, taking advantage of valet service and some Southern-styled hospitality while listening to classic R&B.
Brothers Jim and Joe worked the room, greeting guests, and the amount of warmth and good-feeling going around gave me great hope for the future of this new endeavor.
Alexandria's is open for dinner 5 p.m. to midnight Sundays-Wednesdays and 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. Thursdays-Saturdays. Sunday brunch is 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
The Puck stops ... in Brazil
Unlike Falling Waters, Wolfgang Puck Cafe hasn't sat vacant long. Closed in April, it will soon get a new lease on life (and a whole new look, praise be!) as the Ipanema Brazilian Grill (1225 First Ave., Seattle), an "all-you-care-to-eat" Brazilian-style barbecue restaurant.
Here, entertainment will be part of the proceedings as waiters stride from grill to table bearing swords of meat, seafood and vegetables at lunch and dinner, with Brazilian music and drinks offered in the bar late in the evening.
For this upcoming changeover we can thank Marco Cassas Beaux, who can't seem to stop opening (then selling, closing or otherwise ending his affiliation with) one Seattle restaurant after another. Cassas Beaux had a hand in the debut of the original Cactus in Madison Park and the now-closed Gitano in Madison Valley, among other venues, and is currently the owner of the fabulous Buenos Aires Grill (2000 Second Ave, Seattle, 206-441-7076). Proving he loves nothing more than a restaurant opening, he's come up with the idea of putting what he calls "Seattle's first churrascaria rodizio " into that very visible space on Harbor Steps.
When he called to tell me so, I kept my mouth shut for a moment before noting that his claim discounts the existing Rio Brazilian Grill (5259 University Way, Seattle, 206-526-7123) and its owner-chef Sam Hassan. Hassan, as you may have read in this column last year and in the review that followed, correctly bills his little U-District cafe as Washington's first churrascaria. When I pointed that out, Cassas Beaux announced, "You know Sam? He and his family are coming to work with me!"
When I called to get Hassan's version of the story, he said he plans to keep his U-District grill open until the Harbor Steps property can be remodeled and reopened (ETA: October). He's said he's overjoyed at the opportunity to expand his restaurant in a big, new, high-profile venue. "The whole team is moving down," he told me, referring to his extended family, including his sons, daughter and their mother, Janete, who will work beside him preparing his fixed-price Brazilian-style feasts.
Speaking of the decision to close Rio and put sweat-equity into another man's operation, Hassan cites the growing trend that has put profitable churrascarias in big cities nationwide. "When we opened Rio" — a tiny 44-seat cafe — "we had no dreams," he says. "I had no money and no investors to open a proper churrascaria." When Cassas Beaux approached him with partnership in mind, he jumped at the opportunity. "Brazil is a great product," he says. "And that's what we're going to sell."
Time for tacos and tequila
Speaking of rebirth at Harbor Steps, this week marked the opening of Guaymas Cantina (1303 First Ave., Seattle; 206-624-5062), now at home in the space vacated by Functional Fuel. Like its Green Lake cousin, the cantina adjoining Tacos Guaymas (6808 E. Green Lake Way N., Seattle; 206-524-2500), this Mexican makeover is a great place for a tripe taco and a shot of tequila.
As at other Guaymas locations throughout the area, you can functionally fuel up from a vast menu offering the likes of tacos, tortas, burritos and mariscos (seafood), with many items priced well under $10. Guaymas Cantina is open 11 a.m. to midnight Sundays-Wednesdays and until 1 a.m. Thursdays-Saturdays.
Eating Crow
More than a year ago, Craig Serbousek amicably parted ways with his former wife and business-partner at Stumbling Goat Bistro (6722 Greenwood Ave. N., Seattle; 206-784-3535), turning his place in the Goat's kitchen over to a friend and former co-worker, chef Matt Dillon.
In March, Serbousek and his best pal, Jesse Thomas, whom he'd met when he worked at The Ruins, leased a former warehouse space near that private club and transformed it into Crow Restaurant and Bar (823 Fifth Ave. N., Seattle; 206-283-8800). Built in the husk of a vintage brick building, circa 1902, Crow made its debut last night offering a modest menu of bistro favorites.
With the help of five talented friends, Serbousek and Thomas acted as laborers, knocking out cinderblock and turning the vacant structure into a 65-seat restaurant with two bars: one fronting an open kitchen seating 10, the other for cocktails, seating 12. A section of the room is divided off as a small private-dining room. "When that area's not utilized, we'll set up a 12-seat communal table for people who show up without reservations," Serbousek says.
Now ensconced in their kitchen, Serbousek and Thomas are busy cooking up chilled tomato-mint soup ($5), grilled bread salad ($7) and such "shared items" as an antipasto ($11) and curried mussels ($10).
Among their entrees are halibut with capers, tomatoes and olives ($15), pan-roasted prosciutto-wrapped chicken ($14) and basil-scented succotash with lemon risotto ($13).
Dinner is served 5 to 10 p.m. Sundays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays and until 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. A happy hour is reportedly in the offing.
Nancy Leson can be reached at 206-464-8838 or taste@seattletimes.com. More columns at www.seattletimes.com/columnists.