Former restaurant critic's popular recipe is back

The noive of some readers!

"This is probably so nervy — and gauche," writes Kathy Frushour. "As much as I enjoy your restaurant reviews, what I really want to know is whether you can find (former Seattle Times restaurant critic) John Hinterberger for me because — help! — I've lost his recipe for spaghetti with clam sauce, which I've made for at least 10 years. Although I can approximate it, I would feel much better having the actual recipe in my notebook again. So, if you can send me his e-mail address or ask him on my behalf for the recipe, I would very much appreciate it."

My pleasure, Kathy, and no offense taken.

Hinterberger, who spent 25 years as the Times' restaurant critic, is enjoying retirement; his "Clam Spaghetti" recipe, however, has had no such luck. "Hint" first published the gift-that-keeps-on-giving in a 1973 column. His recipe was reproduced in this paper (and in syndication across the country, without the author's permission, no less) with a frequency that rivaled that of young Virginia O'Hanlon's plea regarding the existence of Santa Claus.

And yes, Kathy, there is a copy of it in the Seattle Times recipe files. It exists as certainly as pasta and mollusks exist, and I will give it to you in a minute, but first a few words about Hinterberger for his longtime fans.

"I make at least one meatloaf a week and try to tell myself it's pâté," says Hinterberger, who, when he's not busy in his kitchen, plays bridge on the computer ("It's good exercise"). Once a wordsmith, always a wordsmith: my esteemed predecessor admits to relishing his retirement by rising to the daily challenge of the New York Times crossword puzzle. "Once I got down to 14 minutes," he says, "I stopped counting." To which I'll borrow one of his favorite literary expressions and say: (!).

The noise of some restaurants!

Ellen Cecil writes: "Do you consistently comment on the noise level in restaurants? My dad is deaf in one ear and losing hearing in the other ear, which makes conversation in a 'lively' restaurant setting impossible for us. Does good food exist in a quiet setting? What restaurants would you recommend, given our limitations?

"We're going out on an upcoming Saturday and I've chosen Nell's, hoping that we will enjoy a delicious and relatively quiet meal. Do you agree with my choice? Any information you could give would be welcome."

Happy to oblige, Ellen. The number of complaints I've heard regarding noisy restaurants reached ear-splitting proportion a couple of years ago, prompting the addition of a noise-level reference in the information box that accompanies the Times' lead restaurant reviews. (Look for the bold-faced listing marked "Sound.")

When a restaurant is excessively noisy (or surprisingly hushed), that fact is commonly — though not consistently — noted in the text. You are far from alone in searching for a place to dine in conversational comfort, but take heart! Finding the right restaurant to suit your needs is far from impossible.

You've made an excellent choice in Nell's (6804 E. Greenlake Way N., Seattle; 206-524-4044), where delicious food and the right acoustics should make a meal with your dad a memorable one. That said, there are some things you — and anyone else looking for quality and quiet in a restaurant — should bear in mind.

Due to the vagaries of dining-room design, there are always certain tables that better lend themselves to easy conversation: Don't hesitate to ask for one. Also recognize that 'tis the season when an otherwise sedate restaurant may have a magnified noise level, thanks to a multitude of large holiday parties and other festive gatherings.

Whatever the season, it pays to note that many an enchanted evening can be ruined by a bigmouth (or three) unexpectedly upping the auditory ante at a nearby table. When making reservations, explain your predicament in advance, politely requesting the "quietest table possible."

In addition to Nell's, consider:

Cafe Juanita (9702 N.E. 120th Place, Kirkland; 425-823-1505); Chez Shea (94 Pike St., Seattle; 206-467-9990); Geneva (1106 Eighth Ave., Seattle; 206-624-2222); The Georgian (in the Four Seasons Olympic Hotel, 411 University St., Seattle; 206-621-7889); Kaspar's (19 W. Harrison St., Seattle; 206-298-0123); Le Gourmand (425 N.W. Market St., Seattle; 206-784-3463); Madison Park Cafe (1807 42nd Ave. E., Seattle; 206-324-2626); Ponti Seafood Grill (3014 Third Ave., Seattle; 206-284-3000); Ray's Boathouse (not the noisy upstairs cafe! 6049 Seaview Ave. N.W., Seattle; 206-789-3770); Sans Souci (Bellevue Place, 10520 N.E. Eight St., Bellevue; 425-467-9490); Seastar (205 108th N.E., Bellevue; 425-456-0010); Sostanza (1927 43rd Ave. E., Seattle; 206-324-9701); Union Bay Cafe (3515 N.E. 45th St., Seattle; 206-527-8364).

Hey readers: if you have a favorite restaurant where you go to eat, drink and hear yourself think, I'm open to your suggestions. And I'd be happy to produce an expanded list of restaurants where quality and quiet reign, so send your ideas along (see contact info below).

Nancy Leson: 206-464-8838 or nleson@seattletimes.com.