Nancy, sans the Hardy Boys, solves West Seattle bistro mystery

Call it "The Case of the Disappearing Restaurant."

When Heidi Hutchinson wrote asking me to solve a "restaurant mystery" — the surprise closure of West Seattle's Cappiello Bistro (2329 California Ave. S.W., Seattle) — I did what any savvy sleuth-on-a-deadline would do. I grabbed a magnifying glass, assumed the proper Nancy Drew stance and, in search of clues, ran around the newsroom asking, "Who lives in West Seattle?" Then I grilled the first person who said, "I do."

While my office-mate, a resident of West Seattle's Admiral District, offered no help answering the "Why'd-it-close?" question, it turns out that she, too, had been mystified by the closure ("That was our new favorite restaurant! We were crushed!"). She then regaled me with her tale of fine meals eaten at the Bistro, echoing the words of Hutchinson, who wrote: "Cappiello Bistro had fabulous salads, good pastas and outstanding cioppino. We spent many beautiful evenings on the patio there this summer, but when we walked by recently it was closed! What happened? They were always busy, the food was good and servers were charming. Can you help solve this mystery?"

Hey, they don't call me "Nancy" for nothing.

According to Laura Spence Ginter, owner of Cappiello Bistro (nee Ristorante Ragazzi), what happened is "a long story" — offered up here in a nutshell. In 1996, Ginter went into partnership with her brother, one of the original Ragazzi owners, and four years later gained sole ownership. Early this year she closed and remodeled the restaurant, re-opening with a new name and a new look. "We were a true neighborhood restaurant," says Ginter, proud that many of her guests had been patrons for more than a decade.

Recently, Ginter was approached by a group of investors with an eye on the site. She says she was interested in exploring other creative endeavors and the timing was right, so she sold her assets to the group, which includes veteran restaurateur Peter Lamb (Queen City Grill) and Perry Fagenbaum (from Cappiello's neighboring Lizzard Lounge) and closed Cappiello Bistro Sept. 9.

"The new owners plan to reopen later this fall with the same game plan," says Ginter, "which is to be neighborhood- and family-oriented and have amazing food. They are going to update the place and reopen as a new Italian restaurant, name as-yet-undecided." Case closed. For now.

Regarding the "Case of the Zig Zag Cafe" (1501 Western Ave., Seattle), the Market Hillclimb hangout shuttered since August and presently undergoing a remodel, here are the details, courtesy of new co-owner Kacy Fitch.

Fitch and his business-partner, Ben Dougherty, were hired by the original owners in 1999 to facilitate the design of Zig Zag's bar, which became the cafe's raison d'être. As the former bar managers — posts held for a year and a half — they built a following and even finagled the hiring of legendary Seattle bartender Murray Stenson (presently working at Il Bistro, where he'd long held court, though, says Fitch, "If we have our way, Murray will come back!").

Fitch says that he and Dougherty bought the cafe in July. While Fitch admits that Zig Zag's priorities were, and will remain, heavily cocktail-oriented, he promises that when the cafe reopens (scheduled date: Oct. 23), we can expect a whole new life from a kitchen once known for pizzas and calzone.

To achieve that end he's hired "consulting chef" Matt Janke. Yes: that Matt Janke, owner, waiter, resident wine-dude and dishwasher-extraordinaire at Pike Place Market's hidden gem, Matt's in the Market (94 Pike St.; 206-467-7909). What's Matt doing moonlighting at Zig Zag, and how will this "side project" affect the number of hours he keeps at the restaurant bearing his name? "I was a (restaurant) consultant for five years before opening Matt's," says Janke, who will create Zig Zag's new menu, hire the kitchen staff and act as lead chef for a couple of months before turning his full attention back to his own place.

While Janke's presence will be missed at his minuscule cafe in the Corner Market Building, its galley kitchen remains in the exceedingly capable hands of chef Erik Cannella, with help from a talented crew: Lauri Allen, Charla Gibson and Jeff Konkle.

When asked whether he'll spend any time working the floor at Matt's in the coming months, Janke quipped, "That depends on how often I can stay awake."

Nancy Leson: 206-464-8838 or nleson@seattletimes.com. More columns at www.seattletimes.com/columnists.