More noted restaurants close doors

As this none-too-fun year comes to a close, we're sure to see more in the way of restaurant fallout. Meanwhile, the death-knell continues with several recent closures of note, including the former mortuary-turned-romantic-retreat, Avenue One (1921 First Ave., Seattle).

This Market-area spot is still wearing a "For Lease" sign — though rumor has it that interest has been piqued and bids have been made. Among the interested parties is at least one eminently talented Seattle chef (sorry, I'm pleading the Fifth) who'd surely do the space proud.

The Poor Italian Cafe, closed in July after nearly 20 years in business, is slated to reopen later this month as Buenos Aires Grill (2000 Second Ave., Seattle). Marco Casasbeaux, who's been connected with more than a few Seattle restaurant ventures (including Cactus, Baci and Nonna Maria) is the man behind that mission. Eighty percent of the menu will revolve around the grill, says Casasbeaux, who recently returned from a quick culinary tour of Buenos Aires, accompanied by longtime Seattle chef Marianne Zdobysz. As Buenos Aires Grill's head chef, Zdobysz, late of the Madison Park Cafe, was introduced firsthand to the style of cooking with which she's to become accustomed.

"You've got to be crazy to be in this business," says Casasbeaux, who intends to prove just that by attempting to open two restaurants in one month. In addition to the Buenos Aires Grill, he's taken over at Gypsy (2805 E. Madison St., Seattle), née Jimmy's Table, which lasted a year in its present incarnation. Call him crazy, but after a quick re-do, he'll reopen the restaurant as Gitano: Spanish for gypsy. Latin American noshes will be the call of the day, courtesy of chef Maritza Texeira, fresh from the kitchen at Cactus.

The oomph(pah) sputtered at Maple Leaf's 2-year-old German restaurant King Ludvig's Tyrol (8501 Fifth Ave. N.E., Seattle), whose windows are presently papered with an advertisement for its apparent successor, Kona Kitchen. Also down for the count is the upscale Japanese restaurant Ackka Bell (302 108th Ave. N.E., Bellevue). Open a year, it closed after a rocky start coupled with a chilly reception from the locals. Proximity to chef John Howie's flashy new seafooder, Seastar Restaurant & Raw Bar likely put the nail in that coffin.

And now for some good news: Malay Satay Hut, heavily damaged by fire late last year, finally reopened last week 250 days after closing — not that I was counting. Faster than you can say, "I'll have two roti canai, some belanchan string beans and an avocado shake," I was on my way to lunch at my favorite hole in the wall — which no longer fits that description, not that I'm complaining.

Fans who couldn't wait for the oft-delayed reopening of Seattle's Malaysian-food Mecca and have made the pilgrimage to its new Eastside sibling will find a certain similarity, décor-wise, between the original (at 212 12th Ave. S., Seattle; 206-324-4091) and its bigger, flashier Redmond location (15230 N.E. 24th St., Redmond; 425-564-0888).

Gone are the old Malay's utilitarian look, diner-style furnishings and gentle patina of Singapore-scented schmutz. The roti grill, formerly front-and-center, has been banished to the back of the house in a gleaming new kitchen; it's been replaced with a bamboo tiki hut that doubles as the beverage concoction area and Reception Central. This configuration leaves space for a few more of those stylish cherry-wood tables and matching chairs, adding (slightly) to the cafe's seating capacity. The food, I'm pleased to report, is excellent as ever, but if you're hoping to sample some, be sure to bring cash.

After 12 years and much nudging from devoted customers, Montlake favorite Café Lago (2305 24th Ave. E., Seattle; 206-329-8005) is open for weekend brunch. And — get this! — they're taking reservations. Only a fool would miss an opportunity to see what chef/owners Jordi Viladas and Carla Leonardi can do with sausage and eggs. They're also firing up the oven to create their delectable thin-crust pizzas ($10.95), calzone ($10.95) and (Yo, sign me up!) meatball sandwiches with melted provolone ($9.95). As proud parents, Jordi and Carla know that Trix are for kids — and they're not above pouring yours a big, colorful bowl full ($2.95). Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. till 2 p.m.

Nancy Leson: 206-464-8838 or nleson@seattletimes.com.