At age 90, Julia Child still stirring things up

How did a woman raised in Pasadena, Calif., become world-renowned as The French Chef?

It took nearly 50 years for Julia Child, who turns 90 today, to gain that fame. In between came work with America's first international spy organization, the OSS; schooling at the Cordon Bleu; a long apprenticeship recipe-testing in Europe; and finally, her seminal book, "Mastering the Art of French Cooking" in 1961 and her TV debut as "The French Chef" on Boston's WGBH in 1963.

No doubt to the horror of nutritionists everywhere, she often has said the secret to a long life is red meat and gin.

However, at her birthday celebration in Napa, Calif., she said the key to a robust life is, "Eat well and drink well, everything in moderation — and never snack."

During one TV program with chef, author and friend Jacques Pepin, Pepin suggested that both white and red wine are good for picnics. He asked Child what she preferred.

"I like beer," she said emphatically, pulling out a well-chilled bottle of beer and two glasses, so they could split it as they cooked.

Chefs and fans throughout the world are celebrating Child's milestone with parties and events, culminating next week with the opening of "Julia Child's Kitchen" at the National Museum of American History in Washington, D.C. The Smithsonian exhibit reconstructs the room in which Child cooked for nearly half a century at her house in Cambridge, Mass.

Through 13 books and nine TV series, she has dispensed advice with a dash of humor and a down-to-earth approach that made sophisticated French cooking seem simple enough for anyone.

As fads have come and gone and cooking methods have changed, Child has adapted, though she steadfastly clings to some ideas. She doesn't mind the microwave. It sometimes comes in handy. But try to cut corners with butter, and she won't stand for it.

"If you're afraid of butter, as many people are nowadays," she said in one of her more recent television shows, "just put in cream!" she added, with a twinkle in her eye.