Vivanda Ristorante opens at the Market

Pike Place Market has no shortage of upscale eating places, including Vivanda Ristorante, soon to open at 95 Pine St. Perched on an incline across from the Inn at the Market, Vivanda promises diners "Mediterranean seafood with an Italian soul" and a wall of windows affording a view of the Market and the Sound. Occupying a long-vacant retail clothing space, this newcomer should be open for business by June 1 "at the latest" according to owner Kamyar Khoshdel. (For inquiring minds wanting to know whether this is the same view spot that came to naught when chef Ludger Szmania considered a Pike Place Market outpost of Szmania's, that's affirmative.)

Khoshdel, the elegant former general manager of Isabella Ristorante, left his longtime post in December to pursue his "restaurant dream." That dream includes a 106-seat dining room, 24-seat bar, Post Alley patio, private dining for up to 45 guests and a team of chefs led by Jason Wilson, who did a star turn at the late Stars Seattle. Vivanda (206-442-1121) will serve lunch and dinner daily and a late-night bar menu.

Fill 'er up

A few blocks south of Pike Place Market at Harbor Steps, another newcomer, Functional Fuel (1303 First Ave., Seattle), is scheduled to open its "flagship" store next month. This casual-dining concept rests on the notion that nutritionally minded Seattleites are ready for (as company literature suggests) "foods that fuel your daily functions" — functions that include "work, sport and play." The diet-be-damned foods that fuel my daily functions (which mainly encompass eating, writing about it and screaming at the scale) can easily be described as "dysfunctional fuel" so I felt duty-bound to take a look at the place that could presumably do me some good.

What I found were workers in full swing putting the finishing touches on a sunny lime-colored dining space artfully cantilevered over Harbor Steps. Standing on the sunny terrace, I weighed the noble notion of weighing food fat content (here, we're promised 35 percent or less), pondering protein quotient and counting carbs.

Functional Fuel is the brainchild of local businessman Hossein Faramarzi, who plans to clone the concept. His kitchen gets its high-octane energy from executive chef and local culinary-arts instructor Walter Bronowitz whose menu bears the imprint of Seattle-based nutrition consultant Kathleen Putnam. Meant to appeal to the likes of runners, bikers and climbers — as well as those of us who wish we had the energy to exercise — the menu offers seasonal produce, grains, fish and poultry in creative combinations.

Zagat zaps Portland

No one loves the Zagat Survey more than this restaurant critic. I keep copies of the Seattle version of this slender, indispensable restaurant guide at arm's length at all times (there's one on my desk, one in my car, one near my home phone and one in my purse — I kid you not). With the hot-off-the-press 2002 edition just out ($10.95), it's time to hit your favorite bookstore for yours.

Perusing the best-selling dining guide, which mines the public palate for votes and quotes, the biggest surprise was not this year's top ranking for food (Rover's), décor (the Georgian) or burger (Red Mill). Nor is it the fact that Espresso Vivace once again scored a "tie" with the Herbfarm in food-ranking (each received 28 out of 30, putting the latte-lover's hangout into the "perfection" category along with chef Jerry Traunfeld's nine-course seasonal sensations). The big surprise was that New York-based Zagat left Portland restaurants, which formerly shared in the twin volume, completely out of the picture.

Why did Portland get the ax? The company line is that buyers showed a lack of interest in our neighbors to the south. Based on that decision, Tim and Nina Zagat, presenters at the James Beard Restaurant Awards ceremony early this month, can expect a Bronx cheer from award-winning Portland chefs Philippe Boulot (of the Heathman) and Greg Higgins (of Higgins). Or maybe it was the Zagat's way of dissing the chefs. Each were "no-shows" at the Beard Awards ceremonies this year and last.