Russian sub surfaces as Seattle attraction

A 1972 Soviet Foxtrot submarine, a legacy of Cold War spying and nuclear brinkmanship, is docked at Pier 48 in Seattle and will open for public tours sometime next week.

The submarine's ominous black conning tower could be spotted in Puget Sound over the past month, as the sub was under tow to Tacoma from Victoria, B.C., where it had been on display for 18 months, and then again as it was towed into Elliott Bay on Monday.

The submarine's 22 torpedoes, which could be fitted with "low yield" nuclear warheads, probably were never fired in combat, said Patrick Householder, president of the Seattle chapter of the United States Submarine Veterans. Members of the veterans group have helped in the restoration and will lead tours when the sub opens to the public.

The boat, known in the Russian fleet as the U-641, carried out search and surveillance missions until it was decommissioned in 1994. Its log shows that its crew once trailed a Canadian destroyer off Victoria.

Submarine Attractions, a company based in Seattle, purchased the sub in Vladivostok and towed it to Canada, where it underwent a $1 million restoration before spending a month in Tacoma for cleaning.

In its heyday, the Foxtrot-class submarines were the workhorses of the Soviet underwater fleet.

Householder was a 19-year-old electrician's mate on the U.S. counterpart of the Russian sub on the eve of the Cuban missile crisis. His submarine was cruising toward the naval blockade of Havana when it detected a Russian submarine and trailed it for a day and a half.

The Foxtrot sub, given the more warlike name Cobra by its new owners, was a "good war fighter," Householder said. But it had an Achilles' heel.

"It was noisy, and U.S. sonar capability was excellent. We didn't have much trouble finding them," he said.

If the submarine's distinctive black profile conjures images of Cold War spy thrillers, the interior is more grim Soviet realism, with cast-iron toilets, tin sinks and bunks crammed between engines and valve wheels.

The submarine's command center and periscope, trained on the Colman ferry terminal nearby, is illuminated by red bulbs to preserve night vision as it would be if the sub were under way.

Round hatches, 3 feet in diameter, link the submarine's forward and aft torpedo rooms, battery compartments, motor room and command post. Two cooks in a 4- by 10-foot galley served up food for 80 officers and crew members. The Soviet submarine had no mess, so sailors had to carry their food back to their station or bunk.

The Foxtrot submarines could dive to 985 feet and stay underwater up to four days. The combination of close quarters and airless compartments meant the navy had to carefully screen prospective crew members.

"Submarine service was definitely not for everyone," Householder said.

A tour of the Russian submarine may not be for everyone, either.

Stan Sherman, president of Submarine Attractions, said subs may have a unique appeal.

"I'm not suggesting that it's a guy thing, but men do have a degree of curiosity about subs."

Sherman said he hopes to moor the Russian Foxtrot at Pier 48 for several years. Tours will be $10 for adults and $6 for children and seniors.

Lynn Thompson can be reached at 206-464-2922 or lthompson@seattletimes.com.