Tackle tack-strip problem with variety of solutions

Q: We have carpet in the family room that abuts vinyl flooring (laundry room and bathroom) and hardwood flooring (kitchen.) Where the carpet meets both of these surfaces, the tacking-strip nails have begun to stick up completely through the carpet. Can I pound the stupid things over with a sledgehammer? What other possible ideas can you provide me with?

A: Pummeling the snot out of the tack strip with a metal-headed persuader will make you and at least half the people reading this feel better, undoubtedly. This is a very common complaint, to which my own house is not immune.

Here are some alternatives:

• Beating the tack-strip pins down through the carpet will usually work, the risk being it may dimple the carpet slightly.

• Don Willott, owner of Don's Floor Coverings, mentions that the typical carpet installation uses a "C" style tack strip. Thinner carpets require smaller tack strips with smaller pins, either a "D" or "E" type. Switch the tack-strip style, and the problem is solved.

• "T" channel is a modified tack strip used for surface transitions, with snap-in strips of rubber that cover the pins. These are rare today, but may be available in places.

• A larger carpet-vinyl transition piece to cover the original tack strip can be unsightly, but cheap and easy. After all is said and done, you may have traded puncture wounds for stubbed toes.

• Staple the carpet directly to the floor. Again, the risk of dimpling here.

• Replace the soft pad around the opening with a very firm pad material, then use double-sided carpet tape, or carpet adhesive, to adhere the pad to the floor, and the carpet to the pad. You may be able to feel the difference between new and old pad when you step on it — but hey, it won't draw blood!

Q: I need to replace my electric water heater. Would it be practical to use those individual wall-mounted instant hot-water devices? I want to eliminate the wasted water and reduce the overall bill. I have two full bathrooms, a kitchen and a laundry.

A: You are referring to individual point-of-use (PU) instant hot-water heaters. There is a difference in the overall plumbing system needed when comparing PUs with conventional whole-house tanks, or whole-house instant water heaters.

PU, schematically at least, is the system used in many European residences. One individual heater for each fixture is not unusual. Each fixture only has a cold-water supply line, branching off to hot only at the PU.

With a centralized system, you have almost twice the amount of supply plumbing, with both a hot and cold line to almost every fixture. That dreaded "wait" for hot water is a function of the plumbing system, not the type of water heater.

The challenge in retrofitting PUs into a home initially designed for a centralized system is that it lacks the infrastructure. For example, your conventional heater has a single 240-volt circuit at 30 amps.

To retrofit, you would need a minimum of three PUs, a corresponding number of new 240-volt electrical circuits (presuming your electrical system is even capable), and a moderate amount of re-plumbing.

In return, you will get a shocking installation bill, some lifestyle modification, and, after all that, you would still be waiting for hot water at some fixtures.

PUs are best suited for use with a single fixture, such as a remote garage sink, or when designed initially into a home.

The better retrofit solution is to keep the plumbing intact and replace the original tank with a whole-house instant unit. The larger-capacity units require 80 amps (or more) at 240 volts, or a ¾-inch gas line, pretty much bolting up to the wall in place of the older tank.

This will provide you with longer appliance life, endless showers, more space, and lower utility bills. With an instant unit you cannot use a circulating or backflow system to eliminate the wait, unfortunately.

When comparing instant water heaters, the performance chart is most crucial. This chart will show the rate in gallons per minute (GPM) the machine can produce while raising the water temperature pre-determined values (called temperature rise). A given heater may heat 4 gpm 45 degrees, yet provide only 2.8 gpm at 65 degrees.

Darrell Hay answers readers' questions. Call 206-464-8514 to record your question. Or e-mail dhay@seattletimes.com. Sorry, no personal replies. More columns at www.seattletimes.com/columnists.