Turntable Restaurant spins nonstop hits for all ages at EMP
It's part of a museum, caters to tourists and resides in an architectural anomaly that resembles the insides of a stomach. Which explains why I haven't rushed out to Turntable at Experience Music Project, heretofore postponing my chance to sit in a Frank Gehry-designed chair, eating Kathy Casey-designed food in a restaurant that could double as the stage set for the diner in "Happy Days: The Next Generation."
With its vinyl booths, TVs playing slide shows of rock 'n' rollers and tabletops that fold out to accommodate big hungry families, it's no surprise that the last thing I expected from Turntable was terrific regional American food. Well, Good Golly, Miss Molly! I had fun, fun, fun till my waiter took my coffee away.
That fun started with an Experience Citrus Project ($7), one of a long list of fancy double-shot cocktails. This potent, tangerine-enhanced, sugar-rimmed concoction arrives in one of those arty martini glasses sold in fancy gift boutiques. It's no bargain, but it will make you feel like a grown-up at a festive grown-ups' party — even when you're surrounded by adolescents who smell like teen spirit.
There's much to claim the attention of teen diners, from the spunky twentysomething servers to vegetarian dishes to burgers with fries to the adjoining museum shop. (Note: You do not have to pay museum admission to eat, drink or shop at EMP.) Children 10 and under have a menu of their own, and if the fish in the kids' fish 'n' chips is as good as the thick cut, herb- and beer-batter-dipped ling cod I tried ($11.95), then that's some high-quality eats for $4.95 — soft drink included.
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Turntable's menu is long and wordy and worthy of the time it takes to ponder your options. You can stick with the basics (burger, pizza, Caesar salad), make a meal of a sandwich, a salad or a serious main course, go for a Northwest favorite (smoked salmon fettuccine), Southwest specialty (stuffed piquillo peppers), or turn to the Jamaican-inspired menu, currently offered in conjunction with EMP's Island Revolution exhibit.
Dishes listed as "small plates & greens" were large enough to share among a trio or eat solo as a main course. Fabulous fried green tomatoes ($7.95), squiggled with spicy sour cream and paired with black-eyed peas over salad greens, packed enough vibrancy and verve to elevate this homey Southerner to "Wow!" status. Calamari ($8.95), dusted with spices, fried to a tender crisp and served over a smoked-tomato sauce was a crowd-pleaser, as was the big, blue-cheese-dressed "Crisp Wedge o' Lettuce" with tomatoes, toasted almonds and fat, juicy bay shrimp ($8.95).
The classy Essential Salad ($8.95) takes its cue from Italy's panzanella and its name from the Fremont bakery that supplies the rustic bread, which is cubed, tossed in fig-infused balsamic vinaigrette and gussied-up with baby heirloom tomatoes, sliced fennel and red onion. Dungeness crab and corn chowder ($4.95/$6.95) is chunky with crabmeat and tastes like it's made from a true shellfish stock.
The only thing missing from Michelle's pappardelle ($11.95) — toothsome ribbons of homemade noodles pressed with herbs — was the kitchen sink. But that should please lovers of tomatoes, spinach, onions, pine nuts, goat cheese, basil and baby beets. The cracker-crusted "Flatbush Ave. Pizza Pie" ($9.95) featured fresh mozzarella and oven-roasted tomatoes. I'd order it again in a New York minute.
Much of the menu crosses over from lunch to dinner, with additional sandwiches punctuating the lunch menu and a few high-end entrees — like the delightfully chic grilled king salmon with blood oranges and baby arugula ($15.95) — enhancing the dinner card. There's plenty of pulled pork on the pulled pork sandwich ($8.95), though I'm not certain "you'll think you're in North Carolina" while eating it: The barbecue sauce was shy of sass.
You will think you're at some swanky downtown steakhouse when you sink your teeth into the splendid New York steak with merlot demi-glace served at dinner ($22.95). There won't be a surcharge, though, for the side of chunky-good mashed potatoes.
The only disappointment came the night our waiter delivered our entrees when we were only halfway through our appetizers, reminding me that despite the great food and drink, Turntable's target audience is not patrons out for a leisurely adult meal. Did I sing the blues? Naw. Instead, I kicked up my heels and saved room for the Little Richard Bouffant Sundae. You should, too.
Nancy Leson can be reached at 206-464-8838 or nleson@seattletimes.com.