Sun setting soon on Adriatica
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If you're reading this standing up, you might want to sit down. It breaks my heart to report that Adriatica will close Aug. 18, leaving too few nights left to walk that daunting flight of stairs for one last taste of calamari fritti with garlicky skorthalia.
Longtime lovers of this tri-level sanctuary of Mediterranean gastronomy will remember this elegant dinner house, open since 1980, as the quintessential romantic restaurant: the one with the tranquil, flower-bedecked dining rooms, carefully grilled meats, deep wine list, sexy upstairs bar and Lake Union view.
Unfortunately, things haven't been the same since the view was obscured several years ago by a behemoth office building. And in the decades since Adriatica's birth, half the chefs in town have jumped on the Mediterranean bandwagon, following in the footsteps of opening chef (and former co-owner) John Sarich, now better known for his association with Chateau Ste. Michelle.
These and other extenuating factors explain why ex-husband-and-wife-team Jim Malevitsis and Connie McCrery have decided to sever business ties by closing their jointly owned restaurant and selling the building and surrounding property.
Adriatica was one of the first restaurants in town to serve squid, mussels and cappuccino, recalls McCrery, who oversees the restaurant's accounts while Malevitsis runs operations in addition to his duties as co-owner (with Richard Malia) of Fremont's Ponti Seafood Grill and Belltown's Axis.
"We were practically giving the stuff away, just to get people to try it," McCrery says. "They thought of squid as bait, mussels as something that clung to docks in hairy clumps, and wondered why they should pay $1.25 for a cup of coffee with foam on it when they could get a cup of Boyd's drip for 75 cents."
Mourners may pay their final respects by having one last dinner at Adriatica (1107 Dexter Ave. N., Seattle), open Tuesday through Saturday. Call 206-285-5000 for reservations.
Where's the beef?
Meanwhile, on the opposite side of Lake Union, the now-ubiquitous fried calamari appetizer is one of the several noshes (along with chicken wings, onion rings and artichoke dip) luring customers into the bar and onto the expansive deck at Sam's Steakhouse on Eastlake (2947 Eastlake Ave. E., Seattle; 206-957-7777).
The restaurant formerly known as Bridges Bar & Grill has been taking advantage of that Lake Union view since celebrating its grand opening early this month. Sam's motto, "Get Steak, Not Stuck," is a nod to the restaurant's newfound mission as a modest-priced "neighborhood steakhouse."
Steaks, chops and prime-rib dinners ($15.95-$23.95) include a salad, as do a clutch of seafood and chicken entrees ($14.95-$18.95) for the hold-the-meat crowd. Sam's opens daily at 4 p.m.
Coffee and crepes
If you find yourself staring at the owners of Maple Leaf's new coffeehouse and creperie, Café Javasti (8410 5th Ave. N.E., Seattle; 206-985-9903), and wondering why those guys look so familiar, there's good reason.
For a half-dozen years, Scott Morell and Ryan Sheridan ran the espresso carts at the original downtown Nordstrom store. Now they're living their caffeine-fueled dreams, working 16-hour days serving Batdorf & Bronson coffee, sweet and savory crepes and homemade scones to Maple Leaf neighbors.
Brick-red walls, cushy chairs, cafe tables and coffee-klatching camaraderie are yours for the asking. Café Javasti (no translation - they made the name up) is open from 6 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 7:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday.
Something to sea
If you don't think Seattle needs another seafood restaurant, you are not Terry Ryan, president and CEO of Oceanaire Seafood Room, whose third upscale seafood restaurant (others are wowing crowds in Minneapolis and the other Washington) is scheduled to open late this year in the new, 24-story, 1700 Seventh Ave. building - new home of Nordstrom world headquarters.
"Each one of our restaurants is a separate business," says Ryan. He's looking forward to taking advantage of our regional bounty and describes Oceanaire's a la carte menu - with its honking pieces of supremely fresh seafood and oversized sides and salads - as closer in concept to a steakhouse than a seafood house.
"Once we have the right local management team in place in Seattle, I'll be happy," Ryan says. He and his executive chef are in negotiations with a chef and general manager. The 285-seat restaurant will be open for lunch and dinner.
Nancy Leson: 206-464-8838 or nleson@seattletimes.com.