A Heavenly Little Highway -- On A Crisp Fall Day, Snohomish County's Mountain Loop Is A Road To Remember

Three men sit at a picnic table in front of the Green Gables General Store in Verlot talking about people in their town, the price of gas and politics. During the conversation there are no outbursts of laughter or the banter of heated arguments. Instead, these store regulars say more with head nods and weathered facial expressions than with words. Though the group isn't flashy, it is a sophisticated version of the "in crowd" in high school, making outsiders want to belong at Green Gables, one of the many finds along the 78-mile Mountain Loop Highway in Snohomish County.

"There are so many beautiful things up here, people just don't know about it," said Donald Johnson of nearby Robe, one of the store's regulars. Points of interests along the Mountain Loop Highway vary from tourist attractions, such as Big Four Mountain, Big Four Ice Caves and the nearby fork of the Stillaguamish River, to hidden local treasures, such as the Green Gables store, inviting trails and Silverton, the old mining town. Each stop along the loop offers its own special draw to locals and visitors. And each provides a little "now" and "then" that make the Loop worthy of a road trip.

Road art

Heading east at the beginning of Mountain Loop Highway, just outside of Granite Falls, you'll find Waggoner's Studio on River Road. Here, owners Gene and Sheri Waggoner teach ceramics and painting classes and sell their art work.

There is a Christmas House, packed with tree ornaments and decorations, and a building filled with miniature oil paintings, ceramic lawn frogs and other knickknacks. A sculpture of a man with an old computer monitor for a head and a water tank for a body directs visitors to the main shop. If visitors are lucky, they'll see Gene Waggoner, working in his front yard. Waggoner's Studio is closed on weekdays, but if Waggoner is in the yard, he'll open shop to passers-by if they want to browse.

Old Robe Trail

From Granite Falls, drive further east toward the first little community, Robe, to find the trailhead to the Old Robe Trail, which leads to the Monte Cristo Railroad tunnels, a mile away. The trailhead is marked by a road sign.

Hiking the Old Robe Trail is tiresome because it bends and twists, but the picturesque surroundings are rewarding. Dry fall grass crunches underfoot and fallen, rust-colored leaves line the way. The South Fork Stillaguamish River bubbles and birds chirp. Remnants of the old railroad track become more obvious the closer you get to the two tunnels. The first is the most dramatic and the longest. Dark, musty and "Blair Witch" spooky, the tunnel is about a quarter of a mile. The second tunnel is half that size. Beware: In the tunnels, the mind does play tricks, and inanimate logs and rocks take on human and animal shapes depending upon how you look at them.

Old fashioned nachos?

Drive five miles east from Robe and you'll find Green Gables store. If the mention of "general store" conjures images of "Green Acres," you will be disappointed. There's an espresso machine, nachos, and a small video-rental section. When Toyota recently filmed a commercial for its new pickup truck at Green Gables, the production crew had to bring an old-fashioned cash register and other props to make the store look more country. But standbys like an old phone booth and a worn picnic table can still be found for community regulars like Burt Burgdoff, who likes the camaraderie found in the store. Burgdoff now lives in Silverton, an old mining town 10 miles up the highway. The town has no running water, electricity or phones, and its residents rely on water wells and generators.

"I enjoy the simple life," Burgdoff said. "But I do have a satellite dish."

Green Gables was built in 1937 and was part of a resort. The old resort cabins are rental homes now. Store owner Charlene Hoge purchased the general store four years ago along with her husband, who has since passed away. Hoge says she enjoys her relationship with customers like Ed Hunzikel, who owns Silverton General Store 10 miles up the loop.

"She's my competition, but I come for the lattes," Hunzikel said.

Ice cold retreat

After soaking in the local scene, hop back in the car and drive east to Big Four Mountain and the ice caves. Be careful, the loop abruptly changes from a paved road to gravel. This area is called the "Sink Hole" and even the road sign leans like the Tower of Pisa. Start your one-mile hike to the caves at the wooden bridges that begin two yards into the trail and appear every six or seven yards. The smell of evergreens permeates the air. The prettiest thing along the trail is the river that flows under the bridge. The water is clear enough to see your reflection and every stone at the bottom. The trees that line the path seem tall enough to kiss the sky and the tread is not too windy or rocky for parents interested in bringing the kids.

"This is an easy path with a baby stroller and it's short enough that the little one won't get too bored," said Greg Beyerlein, who recently hiked the trail with his wife, Netta, and 2-year-old daughter, Tera. This was Tera's first hike.

As you approach the ice caves, warm air pushes you forward and cold air from the caves slaps you back. Entering the caves is dangerous and not recommended, but you can look inside from the entrance and walk around the clearing. Just bring a warm jacket. ------------------------------- If you go

The Mountain Loop Highway, completed in 1942, is made up of three roads, Highway 92, Forest Road 20 and Highway 530. For this road trip, start at Granite Falls, head east and circle back from Big Four Mountain.

To get to the Mountain Loop Highway from Interstate 5, take Exit 194 in Everett (City Center/Stevens Pass exit). Drive six miles east on Highway 2 to Highway 9. Continue on Highway 9 north to Highway 92. Turn right and follow Highway 92 to Granite Falls until you reach the east end of town. Drive until you get to the second four-way stop and turn left. This is where the Mountain Loop Highway begins.

Waggoner's Studio, 13413 River Road, Granite Falls, is a few miles east of Granite Falls. The shop is usually open weekends only. The busiest time is during the Christmas holiday season. For more information call 360-691-5400.

Old Robe Trail and Monte Cristo Railroad tunnels: The Old Robe trailhead is just west of the turnoff for Forest Road 41. A Trail Park pass is not necessary. Signs direct visitors to the tunnels. Robe is the first town east of Granite Falls.

Green Gables General Store, 32518 Mountain Loop Highway, Verlot.. The general store is open 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Call 360-691-4949.

Verlot Ranger Station, 33515 Mountain Loop Highway, is two miles east from Green Gables. To park and hike at many of the sites, you'll need a Trail Park pass; daily passes may be purchased for $3 at either the ranger station or nearby businesses such as Green Gables. The ranger station is open 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. and closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays in September. The station will be open weekends only starting in October. Call 360-691-7791.

Silverton is 11 miles east of Verlot. If you're not paying attention, you could easily pass Silverton.

The trailhead for Big Four Mountain and Big Four Ice Caves is four miles east of Silverton. A Trail Park pass is required for the parking area.