Giddyup And Go -- A Three-Hour Trail Ride Puts You In Scenery And Saddle Without A Lot Of Sweat

Under floating, snowlike cottonwood seed and a sweet drift of honeysuckle in the sun-soaked air, a slow line of 10 horses snakes its way among the trees. The rhythmic clip-clopping of hooves and mild rocking of saddles lulls each rider into a slight daze as we move deeper into the forest.

Dressed in jeans, a fleece pullover and Nikes, I'm not quite the second coming of Annie Oakley. But I am now riding high on the back of a horse with the dangerous name of . . . Ladybug. I'm getting in touch with my inner cowgirl, who has lain dormant since the last time I sat on a donkey at a petting zoo. My inner cowgirl is the one who will be worthy of long, galloping rides alongside Brad Pitt in "Legends of the Fall."

Which is why I've fallen into line with EZ Times Outfitters, a horse-rental company that leads riders and horses on trail trips through wild country near Mount Rainier. With nary a hiker in sight, the three-hour rides provide all the pleasure of the great outdoors and none of the exertion of hiking. (Well, except for the sore, uh, muscles that will last for days afterward.)

For long excursions into the forest, horses definitely beat Timberlands and Jeep Cherokees. Unlike a sport-utility vehicle, a horse meanders along at a leisurely pace. It's not quite like hiking, either, since you aren't responsible for hauling your own body up and down the hills. And then there's the human-animal bond that you form with your horse. For a beginner like me, a fearful

nervousness soon turns to trust and respect for an animal willing to carry me for miles over steep, rocky trails that I wouldn't even consider hiking.

Jeff Celski and his 18 horses operate EZ Time Outfitters, the only horse-rental company that trots the earth around Mount Rainier National Park. On a clear day, you can't miss the looming mountain.

But on a day like today, the mountain stays shrouded in clouds. There are plenty of sights to fill the eyes though, from the trees that wall the narrow trail to the wild daisies and verdant undergrowth that carpet the ground. "It's so green it hurts your eyes," Celski says as the horses slip through the tall grass.

Celski owns Tennessee Walkers, appaloosas, quarter horses and Arabians. Some have been purchased from private owners, some donated. When no tours are scheduled, he'll herd his stable tenants over to his neighbor's pastures where his horses will perform a free mowing and fertilizing service.

You'll find EZ Times headquarters, a small wooden shack with a tin chimney poking out the roof, by taking a sharp, harrowing left off Highway 706 just outside of Elbe, Pierce County, before the entrance to Mount Rainier National Park. Plump free-range chickens, a geriatric brown Labrador named Reba and a pig named Pork Chop roam the property. (Watch your step.)

The 10 who have come to ride this Saturday morning slowly straggle in. One woman from Seattle has brought her dad; a group of women celebrates a birthday.

Just like the Westerns

Larissa Dietz, the other guide on our trip, gives us a crash course in horseback riding; she makes it sound relatively simple. To make the horse go, kick its flanks with your heels. To stop the horse, pull back on the reins, as seen in a million Westerns. After a few awkward moments, a slow ride turns out to be quite easy. It's a bit like steering a car, a bit like leading the tango. You have to be firm and deliberate to let the horse know where you want it to go.

"I'm already beginning to feel bones I never had," mutters Tracy Sudman, who drove from Seattle with her dad.

I can't decide whether I should coo at Ladybug while she's walking, or whether she'd prefer to be left alone. I settle for a few encouraging words and a pat when nobody's looking. Ladybug appears nonplused but she doesn't throw me off her back.

What's more difficult is keeping her from stealing mouthfuls of grass. If you're going downhill and a horse's head suddenly dips down for a bite of grass, you might find yourself head over heels. But they're wily creatures, tearing a bite off as soon as they think you aren't paying attention. I can't say I blame them. If I was crawling through a field of chocolate bars, I'd be hard-pressed to control myself.

Celski leads us along gravel logging roads and trails he has cleared. During the summer, juicy huckleberries and blackberries will ripen up and you can just ride by and pop them into your mouth, he says.

I imagine slinging myself onto Ladybug in the morning and filling a basket full of berries for a pie I'll bake for supper in a wood-fired stove. There's something pleasantly retro about horseback riding. I feel like the Woman from Snowy River.

Scenery at a slow pace

Sad to say, we will not be doing any wild galloping through the meadows today. This is strictly a scenic ride through the forest. Part of the ride peeks over Alder Lake, part is shrouded in trees. As clouds pass overhead, the forest turns a creepy misty gray. Once again, I'm grateful to the horse, this time for the company.

As we head for home, Ladybug gets impatient and nips the horse in front of us. I'm unsure of what to do. Should I yell "Bad horse!" as I would to my dog? Should I kick her with my heels? I mumble a weak, "Why did you do that?" as I would to a naughty kindergartner, but I see no remorse in her face.

Despite her momentary bad behavior, I'm still sad when we arrive at the stable and I have to say goodbye. I'm even sadder still when I get off and realize how much my thighs hurt. The next day I'm downright depressed by how my lower back feels. I guess it's true what they say - even cowgirls get the blues.

--------- If you go ---------

If you're a first-time rider, make sure you wear long pants that you won't mind getting dusty, and leave those boots with heels at home. Let the guide know your ability level, too, so you can be matched with an agreeable horse. Here's a sampling of places that offer guided scenic rides:

Horse Country offers guided scenic rides through the Cascade foothills. One-hour rides are $20 each, one-and-a-half-hour rides are $25 each. Riders must be at least 7 years old and weigh less than 210 pounds. Reservations required. Open Wednesday through Sunday. 360-691-7509. 3507 Highway 92, Granite Falls.

EZ Times Outfitters offers guided horseback-riding trips near Mount Rainier seven days a week. Trips cost $20 per hour per person for one-, two- or three-hour guided trail rides with a minimum of four people per trip. Riders must be at least 6 and weigh less than 225 pounds. For reservations, call 360-569-2449. Three-hour trips can also be booked through Discover U at 206-443-0447. 18703 Highway 706, Elbe, Pierce County.

Skyland Ranch offers guided scenic tours along the Skykomish River. Guided tours for up to three hours cost $20 an hour during the week, $25 on weekends; unguided tours cost $15 an hour during the week, $20 on weekends. Riders must be at least 7 years old. Open seven days a week. Reservations required. 360-793-2611. 43100 Reiter Road, Gold Bar.

Tiger Mountain Outfitters leads three-hour, 10-mile scenic rides to a lookout point on Tiger Mountain. Rides cost $50 per person and depart daily at 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. Reservations are required. Groups limited to eight. Riders must be at least 10 to ride and weigh less than 250 pounds. 425-392-5090. 24508 S.E. 133rd St., Issaquah.