Kitchen Crews Shifting In All Directions During Game Of Musical Chefs

Finding a good chef in the midst of a restaurant boom is no easy task. Keeping one in Seattle's volatile restaurant climate is even harder. So, while restaurant owners are running ads, wringing their hands and offering bonuses they probably can ill-afford, it's a "seller's market" for the gang in the kitchen. Which makes for a classic game of musical chefs as head chefs are moving out, sous-chefs are moving up, and line cooks more than likely are getting the raises they deserve.

Alex Nemeth has left his post as sous-chef at Brie & Bordeaux (2227 N. 56th St., Seattle, 206-633-3538) to head up the kitchen at Eastlake's Latin bistro, Bandoleone (2241 Eastlake Ave. E., Seattle, 206-329-7559). Replacing him at Brie & Bordeaux is Chris Boehme (late of Cafe Campagne, Kaspar's and Marco's Supperclub) whose wife, Lyn, joins him as B&B's brunch and catering chef.

Jasper Alexander, former sous-chef at Axis (2214 First Ave., Seattle, 206-441-9600), has a pedigree that includes stints at two of New York's favorite hot-spots: Gotham Bar & Grill and Gramercy Tavern. He's recently been promoted to chef de cuisine at Axis' sister-restaurant, Ponti Seafood Grill (3014 Third Ave. N., Seattle 206-284-3000). Alexander's wife, Beth Monaco Alexander, is assistant general manager and banquet manager for Ponti and Axis, whose dual kitchens are overseen by chef-exec Alvin Binuya. Binuya continues to split his time between the two restaurants, and can still be found working the line at both.

Chef changes are also afoot at icon Grill (1933 Fifth Ave., Seattle, 206-441-6330) where sous-chef Nick Musser (late of Flying Fish and Yarrow Bay Beach Cafe) has recently been named executive chef. Musser replaces opening chef-exec Philip Kephart. Mike Thomas (who relinquished his sous-chef's position at Ponti to help open icon Grill), has moved up to take Musser's position as sous. As for Kephart, he can now be found in Ballard, acting as consulting chef at Valdi's Ballard Bistro (5410 Ballard Ave. N.W., Seattle, 206-783-2033), the newly transformed Julia's Park Place. New owner Valdi Bjarnason, former food-service director at Microsoft, is still flipping Julia's famous sourdough pancakes at breakfast, though you can expect far more upscale eats on his new "American-Euro-Scandinavian" dinner menu, unveiled last weekend.

Chet Wallenstein (at 22, perhaps the youngest chef in town to take so prominent a culinary stage) has recently taken the helm in the kitchen at Theoz (1523 Sixth Ave., Seattle, 206-749-9660). Theoz, the love-child of restaurateurs Theodora van den Beld and Gary Bocz, continues the fight to find its footing amid an onslaught of high-profile restaurant neighbors and a series of chef changes. Wallenstein, who worked under uber-talent Scott Carsberg at Lampreia, replaces Theoz's most recent head chef, Joe Earl Hook, soon to be cooking at Brasa. Wallenstein has completely done away with opening chef Emily Moore's dramatic "Ring of Fire" cuisine, turning instead to such French country favorites as Pernod-steamed mussels, confit-rich cassoulet and saffron-scented bouillabaisse.