Burrito Choices That Will Fire Up The Taste Buds

--------------------------- Restaurant review / Redmond ---------------------------

XX Taqueria El Gallo, 16720 N.E. Redmond Way, Redmond, open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily. No smoking. Major credit cards. 425-702-9226.

When it comes to Mexican food on the Eastside, the bird is the word. A spin-off of the great Taqueria Guaymas chain, Taqueria El Gallo ("the rooster" for the Spanish-impaired) is doing just fine on its own, easily recruiting its own network of salsa container-carrying worshippers. Situated in its street-front perch of an otherwise indistinguishable mall-ette, this new kid on the block makes the long haul down the sprawling strip of Northeast Redmond Way something to actually look forward to.

A former partner of the Lynnwood Guaymas, El Gallo owner Martin Reyes has transferred his charisma and recipes to this new, bright shop. He's the one ladling horchata into big tumblers from behind his post at the register, and good-naturedly patting patrons on the back as he hands them their burritos para llevar.

El Gallo's offerings are very similar to those of its progenitors, and there aren't too many surprises here for Guaymas veterans. This is not a bad thing. From pescado to al pastor, there's still the epic list of surf 'n' turf fillings for the burrito of your imagination. Everyone's favorite "above the neck" meats of tongue and cheeks make their appearance here, too, ready to be coaxed into a taco with a little pico de gallo. If you're feeling the call of the sea, it's probably the shrimp that are hollering at you from the menu. Camarones a la Diabla are first sauteed in butter and garlic and then covered in a spicy (I mean spicy) tomato sauce. Divest them of their tails and roll them into a corn tortilla with a bit of avocado and salsa to craft something like a prawn firecracker.

And only on weekends, you and your groggy compatriot can get whacked back into consciousness with the one-two punch of Mexican super soups, menudo (tripe) and pozole (chile, pork and hominy). Keep the lime wedges coming.

But forget any comparisons with that franchise to the west, for this taqueria is very much its own place. Taqueria El Gallo cooks up Mexican that is thoughtful, tasty and authentic, and you can't do too much better than that. (Helpful Salsa Bar Hint: Dispel any preconceived notions that the green salsa is the mild stuff. El Gallo's verde is no tranquil tomatillo potion, but a zingy, jalapeno-studded affair. The red sizzles only slightly in comparison.)

Taqueria El Gallo Itemized Bill, Meal for Two Taquitos # $6.95 Fish Taco # # $2.75 Regular Chile Verde Burrito # # # $4.00 Coke $1.00 Beer $2.50 Tax $1.55 Total $18.75

# These aren't your typical cigar-sized tooth-crackers, those greasy ones with the desiccated beef jerky. Instead, you get four zaftig taquitos, about an inch-and-a-half in diameter, fried to a delicate crunch, stuffed generously with marinated, shredded chicken.

# # A pair of corn tortillas, lightly egg-battered white fish, and shredded cabbage provide the foundation. When topped off with a drizzle of fantastic dill crema, however, it's a little more special.

# # # I'm always in search of the epic burrito, the kind of tightly wrapped and densely packed cylinder of beans, meat, rice, etc. that can literally stand on its own. If it can be stood upright on a flat surface without flopping over, then it has passed the burrito challenge. El Gallo's is such a beast. Rip away its foil swaddling strip by strip as you eat your way through big hunks of tomatillo-stewed pork, whole beans, rice, cilantro and chunky pico de gallo.