Kirkland's Triple J Is Like A Living Room Away From Home

----------------------------------------------------------------- Restaurant review / Kirkland

XX Triple J Cafe, 101 Central Way, Kirkland. Breakfast ($3-$5), lunch ($3.25-$6), dinner ($5.25-$7). Open 5 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5 a.m.-midnight Friday-Saturday, 6 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday. No smoking. Major credit cards. No alcohol. No reservations. 425-822-7319. -----------------------------------------------------------------

If Kirkland is the Eastside's playground, then the Triple J (the arty coffee-klatscherie, venerable nosher's haven and society hangout at Central Way and Lake Street) is surely Kirkland's living room.

You can't miss this striking, oversized storefront, whose sky-high windows offer much in the way of see-and-be-seen right here on the corner of Walk and Don't Walk. Once inside, it's hard to resist those cushy, upholstered vintage sofas fronting the fireplace: They provide the perfect roost for eyeing the artwork, the chandeliers and the clientele who perch at tables (often sorely in need of busing) around this dramatic room. The room gets even more dramatic on Monday and Wednesday nights, when live music enlivens the atmosphere.

Sit midcafe and it's hard to ignore the constant parade of those waiting in line to buy something to sip or sup. And harder still to ignore the efficient gang behind the sweets-laden counter whose brash voices rise above the gentle hubbub as they cry "Sixty-four! Sixty-four!" in an effort to get you to examine your numbered receipt and get over there to retrieve an expertly pulled latte or fresh-brewed tea (anytime), a breakfast burrito or bowl of oatmeal (in the morning), a sprouty sandwich or heaping salad (at lunch), a mix 'n' match pasta (at dinner), or whatever else your particular hang-time needs require.

Noting the streetside "Wiener Window" adjoining the cafe's kitchen, I asked if I could order a wiener from within. The counter gal countered by explaining that the window, open from 3 p.m. to 3 a.m., was a takeout-only adjunct - a quick-stop for a dog, chips and a Pepsi (no substitutions) offered for a bargain total of $4.

"It's actually open till 3 a.m.?" I asked with something akin to incredulity creeping into my voice. "We've got a lotta hungry drunks in Kirkland," she answered matter-of-factly.

Imbibers from neighboring watering holes will be sorry to hear that the Wiener Window is now closed for the rainy season and won't reopen till spring. Teetotalers and quality food-seekers have nothing to worry about: There's still plenty to keep them occupied in Kirkland's swell living room.

ITEMIZED BILL

WHOLE TURKEY SANDWICH $5.50: "The Sandwich That Made Us Famous" boasts the blackboard menu. "Fresh-roasted turkey" is plainly that, augmented by cranberry chutney and mayo. Famous? I don't think so. Delicious? I'll buy that. No skimping on the hefty side of dill-stoked orzo salad.

CUP OF SOUP: $2.25

HALF MEATLOAF SANDWICH $3.50: More Country-French pate than Mom's Sunday night special, this fab filling works well on the thin-sliced sourdough bread (though I'd lose the sprouts next time around). Perky lettuce, ripe tomatoes and a potent, mustardy schmear raise the attraction quotient. Given the amount of orzo salad on this baby, we could have ditched the tomato-lentil soup and better afforded a big slice of chocolate layer cake from Pacific Desserts ($3.75).

LEMONADE: 75 CENTS

SINGLE SHORT LATTE: $1.80

TAX: $1.26 TOTAL: $15.06

Triple J Cafe # # ($) An arty coffee-klatscherie, venerable nosher's haven and society hangout at Central Way and Lake Street, the Triple J does double time as Kirkland's communal living room. Cushy sofas front a gas fireplace, chandeliers hang from the sky-high ceiling and tables surround a rather grand venue juxtaposed with folks waiting in line for French toast and frittatas in the a.m., soups, sandwiches and salads midday, mix 'n' match pastas at dinner, and sweets and specialty coffees and teas between-times. There's live music on Monday and Wednesday. Reviewed 10/3/97 by N.L. 101 Central Way, Kirkland, 425-822-7319.