Top Ten -- Restaurant Critic John Hinterberger Serves P His List Of The Year's Best Eateries, Selected From Establishments Reviewed In 1996

1996 will be otherwise remembered as a year that came in like a lion and went out like a polar bear. But in the local restaurant industry, it will be noted as just one more year of ongoing advancements - some of them splendid.

It is almost routine now (and at the risk of seeming hopelessly parochial) to report that our regional restaurant scene continues to improve, continues to impress. There are some American cities that equal or surpass what Seattle has to offer its diners - but they are few and increasingly becoming fewer.

We'll remember '96 as the year Tom Douglas finally got his dream kitchen, the year Anthony's moved into the Bell Street waterfront complex, the year Roy Yamaguchi moved into the Westin (replacing the dated Palm Court), the year Canlis got a $1.5 million facelift and the year we discovered the world's most self-celebrated celebrities at Planet Hollywood were incapable of flipping a quality hamburger consistently, while clamoring thousands appeared not to notice.

About 18 restaurants made it into final consideration for the '96 Top Ten, and choosing from among them was far from easy.

With the reminder that this listing was chosen ONLY from those restaurants reviewed in The Seattle Times during 1996, and in possible jeopardy of insulting a few and annoying many, here are my choices:

1. The Third Floor Fish Cafe, 205 Lake St. S., Kirkland (822-3553). An extremely close call over a compelling runner-up, the

Palace Kitchen. This view Eastside seafood house began a turnaround a few years ago when it was converted from a clubby, dark steakhouse by consultant Kathy Casey. But it hit its stride this year under chef Scott Staples and a new veteran manager, host Doug Guiberson (maitre d' at Canlis for 26 years).

The menu sparkled with pairings of seafood choices like sturgeon or "divers" scallops (hand-gathered in Alaska) and imaginative saucings: perhaps an arugula pesto or a North African chermula sauce. Most entrees cost under $20. Try the Braised Lamb Shank with a forest mushrooms ragout. A lively lounge overlooks the Kirkland Marina.

2. Palace Kitchen, 2030 Fifth Ave. (448-2001). Chef Tom Douglas has practically become a Northwest icon and his local influences are profound. After establishing two successful restaurants earlier (Dahlia Lounge and Etta's Seafood), he made the Palace Kitchen an informal hangout and a bustling, chef-indulgent, wide-open kitchen/commissary. In short, a combination workshop, playroom and clubhouse that happens to serve superb food.

The menu is dedicated to appetizers (15 priced between $1.35 and $8), informal dishes, nightly specials and desserts (13 of them) more than main courses ($11 to $30). All this invites drop-in dining rather than structured four-course dinners. Few beef choices and remarkably little salmon. Great salads.

The central bar is great for people-watching and Cajun-styled mussel slurping.

3. Gerard's Relais de Lyon, 17121 Bothell Way N.E. (485-7600). Gerard and Sharon Parrat started this great classical French restaurant 20 years ago and slowly built up a savvy, discriminating clientele who reveled in dishes like Bisque de Homard, Cream of Sweet Corn Soup, Saumon Fume Mousse and Roasted Rack of Lamb Provencale.

A couple of months ago, the restaurant was sold to Eric Eisenberg (who trained in France for five years) and it is too soon to see if past levels of genius have been maintained. One hopes. We'll try it soon.

4. A tie between Andaluca, 407 Olive Way (382-6999), and Anthony's Pier 66, 2201 Alaskan Way (448-6688).

Andaluca is an attractive, welcoming makeover of the previously drab dining room at the Mayflower Hotel with a lively menu by chef Don Curtiss (formerly of al Bocalino) and consultant Kathy Casey (yes, she's been busy).

The emphasis is southern Mediterranean conversant with Northwest staples - like Mussels Madrid or Dungeness Crab and Avocado Tower and a gazpacho salsa. Don't miss the Cabrales Crusted Beef Tenderloin ($21) with a Marsala glaze and grilled pears.

Anthony's Pier 66 (and its fine, budget-priced adjunct, Anthony's Bell Street Diner) was a major downtown migration for this blue-chip, suburban-marina chain, and probably its most ambitious. It was also the last project for Anthony's by a laudable executive chef, Sally McArthur, who left the company this year.

Essentially, it's an upscale translation of Anthony's expert, reliable menus elsewhere, now in competition with the city's established waterfront eateries. Highest quality regional seafood - including what may be Seattle's best fish and chips at the sidewalk-level stand.

5. The Painted Table, Alexis Hotel, 92 Madison St. (624-3646). Chef J. Tim Kelley took over the kitchen of this leading-edge fusion restaurant (a term chef Kelley dislikes; he calls it simply contemporary American) with Pacific Northwest items informed by multi-Asian and French techniques.

A typical example is Pan Seared Scallops on a base of curried Waldorf Salad and a glazed reduction of apple. Or Steamed Mussels and Clams in a broth of Thai red curry, lemongrass and coconut milk.

The Spicy Rock Shrimp Linguini ($13.50) may be the best pasta dish in town.

6. Il Terrazzo Carmine, 411 First Ave. (467-7797). Carmine Smeraldo celebrated his 12th year near Pioneer Square this year with infallible pastas, risotti (try the risotto with prawns and lobster: $16) and a wonderful Osso Buco Milanese ($19.50).

There are many local Italian-Americans (including some leading suppliers) who never dine elsewhere. People-watching features local top cops, politicos, lawyers and architects. Outstanding service and Smeraldo is a diligent host.

7. Roy's Seattle, Westin Hotel, 1900 Fifth Ave. (256-7697). Roy Yamaguchi came to Seattle for a week to set up and open his latest expansion (the 11th) of a Hawaii-based enterprise that has drawn international acclaim.

It's an attractive, and less formal, reworking of the former Palm Court. The menu leads off with some killer appetizers (order the Shrimp Cocktail on a Stick with Wasabi Ketchup; $8.75) and Roy's Style Dungeness Crab Cakes ($10.50).

Basil-seared Opakapaka ($25.95) is served with luscious Wasabi Ogo vinaigrette. Also grand are the Charbroiled Garlic-Mustard Short Ribs ($18.50) with very American mashed potatoes.

8. Noble Court Seafood Restaurant, 1644 140th Ave. N.E., Bellevue (641-6011). Considered by many Chinese Americans to be the definitive Hong Kong-style restaurant in the area; kitchen is under head chef King Huen Wai and dim sum chef Chi Leong Chan. Tim Yan runs the front.

The dim sum lunch is jammed, especially on weekends. Wonderful Steamed Shrimp Dumplings ($2.50 for four) and Sauteed Prawns with Honey Walnuts ($12). The Sizzling Beef with Black Pepper and garlic ($9) is a rouser.

9. Shanghai Garden, 80 Front St., Issaquah (313-3188). One of the International District's current favorites opened an Eastside extension this year. Owner/chef Hua-Te Su with his protege David Chu transferred their popular ID dishes to a former steakhouse. Hand-shaved noodles in various forms (including a grand chow mein) are the house trademark. The Happy Rolls ($8.95) are spectacular in a "hot fire bowl" of a dark, rich broth.

10. Chutneys Bistro, Wallingford Center, 1815 N. 45th St. (634-1000). Would you believe Tandoori Alfredo or an eggplant pizza called Baigan Wala? They were part of the bistro-ization of Chutneys, the first reincarnation of the original Queen Anne restaurant. (A second, Chutneys Grille, opened near Group Health later this year).

But the bistro-informal emphasis worked beautifully with the Indian dishes shown to advantage for American tastes. Screamin' Chicken Wings ($3.95) will make you forget Buffalo, and the Lamb Tikka Masala ($9.95) - rich, buttery and complex - will reassure you that this is still a fine Indian restaurant team.