For Thai In South End, Cafe Indochine Shines

----------------------------------------------------------------- Restaurant review

XX Cafe Indochine, 31254 Pacific Hwy. S., Federal Way. ($$) Lunch and dinner (same menu; $6 to $8.95) 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Friday; noon to 10 p.m. Saturday, Sunday. Beer, wine. No credit cards. No smoking. Reservations: 946-3992. -----------------------------------------------------------------

Cafe Indochine. It sounds hauntingly French colonial.

Whenever the lament arises that there are only a few quality restaurants in South Seattle, or the towns in South King County, it only seems fair to recall that in one category - Thai cooking - the area is well-served.

The Thai Thai in White Center (246-2246) and the Bai Tong in SeaTac (431-0893) have long been noted for exceptional Thai cuisine. About a year ago, they were joined in that pursuit by the Cafe Indochine, on Highway 99 in Federal Way.

It started out 14 months ago as a true cafe, offerings reflecting its French name, with French pastries and Euro-style breakfasts being served from 7 a.m. That, unfortunately, didn't work out.

"It wasn't right for Federal Way," said pastry chef and waitress Ly Ngov, a young Thai-Chinese woman who learned her craft during three years on the Paris Left Bank.

Although Ly still prepares a counter-case full of French pastries every morning (and you may get some complimentary, sugared pastry strips along with your check), the Indochine now opens only for lunch and dinner - during which hours it is often full.

A pleasant environment

It's a pretty little space, seating 50, with lace curtains facing the relentless highway in front, a jade-colored carpet on the floor and swags of deep-green brocade framing the windows.

The chef (and son of the Paris-dwelling owners) is Po An Lin, who works a busy single wok alongside a crowded restaurant range. His menu is typical for the genre in America:

A good, richly sauced and not-too-sweet Phad Thai ($6.95) - which appears to be ordered happily and almost automatically by at least half of the regulars - satays, Thai spring rolls (both $5.95), the usual soups ($5.95 to $6.95 for enough to serve at least two) and a range of Thai curries, all of which are presented with flair and some artistry.

One persistent problem: It is difficult to get the waiter to communicate to the kitchen that you'd like at least some of the items truly spicy and hot. Occasionally you'll be asked how hot you'd like your Spicy Prawn Soup ($6.95, and really lovely with lemon grass, coriander and kaffir lime leaves), but your response, whether in the form of stars or adjectives, will bear little resemblance to the smilingly delivered outcome. Piquant, maybe; tear-inducing hot, no.

"If you order the Phad Thai `four stars,' " said one friend, "it'll come out just right." About two stars, he meant.

Sabu-Sabu ($5.95) isn't often seen locally. A triangular-shaped cross between a fried won ton and an empanada, it's stuffed with a blend of ground meats, julienned vegetables and Hawaiian taro.

Chicken Satays ($5.95) are nicely handled: curry and coconut-milk marinated, they're swiftly grilled and served with a velvet-smooth, not-too-aggressive peanut sauce.

Bangkok Wings ($6.95 for two) are deboned chicken wings stuffed with a dense blend of shrimp and ground chicken, shallots and a hint of lemon grass. I found them plump and moist on one visit, tough and dry on another.

Peppers for cabbage?

Green Curry ($7.95, with either chicken or beef), a coconut-milk infusion of julienned bamboo shoots, green chilies and basil, supposedly is augmented with chunks of green bell peppers - but ours came, inexplicably, with cabbage instead. Still tasty.

Indochine's Barbecued Chicken ($7.95) uses many of the same ingredients, but presents the chicken breasts glazed (and slightly dry).

Basil Seafood ($8.95) and Green Curry Seafood (also $8.95) are good choices, loaded with wok-seared prawns (lively with pepper and cilantro), sea scallops and diamond-slashed calamari. The saucing, of course, is different and the basil version is more aromatic.

Tall glasses of Thai Tea, topped with a ball of whipped cream and a sprig of bright green mint ($1.50), go well with any of the entrees, and make one wonder why evaporated milk ever went out of fashion here.

The dessert list is short: Thai Ice Cream Pastry (3.95), Sweet Mango Rice ($2.95) and - straight from a recent engagement in Paris - Profiterole ($3.95). Or you can take home a bag of real French pastries. (Copyright, 1996, John Hinterberger. All rights reserved.)

John Hinterberger, who writes the weekly restaurant review in Tempo and a Sunday food column in Pacific, visits restaurants anonymously and unannounced. He pays in full for all food, wines and services. Interviews of the restaurants' management and staff are done only after meals and services have been appraised. He does not accept invitations to evaluate restaurants.