Appealing Italian Fare At Popular Perche No

----------------------------------------------------------------- Restaurant review

XX 1/2 Perche No Ristorante Italiano, 621 1/2 Queen Anne Ave. N. ($$) Lunch ($3.25-$13) 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Dinner ($8.75-$19) 5-10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 4-9:30 p.m. Sunday. Closed Monday, except for frequent wine-tasting dinners. Full bar. Major credit cards. No smoking. Reservations: 298-0230. -----------------------------------------------------------------

Waiter! There's an orchid on my cannelloni!

I didn't say it, but I surely thought it. Then I had a second thought: Why not? Or, as the Italians (and at least one Chinese couple) put it, "Perche no!"

David and Lily Kong's Perche No, which celebrated its third anniversary last weekend, possibly is not the only Italian restaurant in Seattle operated by a Chinese chef, but it's the only one I am aware of.

I first met David Kong almost six years ago when he was an enthusiastic chef at one of Seattle's most authentic Italian restaurants: La Dolce Vita near University Village. Kong was a cross-cultural culinary convert - and a determined one.

An experienced all-around chef, he decided he was getting tired of Chinese cooking and wanted to find a new specialty. So, 18 years ago, he talked his way into an upscale Bay Area eatery as an apprentice Italian cook. As he put it: "Why not?"

Newly ordained Mediterranean, he progressed both rapidly and northward.

Perche No has two small but comfortable dining rooms; white linen, fresh flowers and swift, agreeable service. In all, it's warm and appealing.

Outstanding salads

Start with any of the outstanding salads or the Antipasti Misti ($4.50 per person). The Insulata della Casa ($3.75) is a colorful heap of mixed greens, Kalamata olives, cupped leaves of radiccio and curls of thinly sliced carrot.

The warm Spinach Salad ($4.25 at lunch) is outstanding. Tender, small leaves of spinach are quickly sauteed with diced pancetta and onions, then tossed with a balsamic vinaigrette, rimmed with spears of endive and topped with slices of hard-cooked egg and nuggets of Gorgonzola. It's somehow both light and a richly satisfying dish. Although not listed on the evening menu, Kong will make it on request.

The daily mixed antipasto is available for inspection at the sideboard. Typical choices are marinated roasted red peppers, button mushrooms in a mild pesto, sliced chard in a tart, capered vinaigrette, grilled eggplant, black Italian olives, etc., topped by a slice or two of Genoa salami. It's served in a heaping oval plate, shining with exuded olive oil.

A greater variety of Italian meats and/or cheeses would be welcome.

I didn't nibble the deep purple orchid, but the Cannelloni alla Toscana ($8.95, flower included) was superb. Two tender crepes were filled with ground veal, pork, chicken and ricotta cheese, surrounded by a moat of bright red marinara sauce, and napped with a creamy coverlet of sauce bechamel. A flurry of Parmesan and a fresh crackling of black pepper completed the presentation, along with a basket of grand Italian bread and a saucer of herbed olive oil for dipping.

"Heavenly" risotto

The risotti (about $8 at lunch; $12 at dinner) are expertly handled. Especially, try the Risotto al Funghi Porcini; made with Arborio rice in stock, plumped slices of porcini, and finished with cream, fresh-grated Parmesan cheese and chopped Italian parsley. A visiting friend who lives in France and often dines in Milan called it "heavenly."

A dozen other pasta choices range from reliable to compelling; like the Fresh Black Linguini with smoked salmon in a light cream-tomato sauce ($11.25).

Scaloppine di Vitello alla Luchese ($13.50) is representative of the Secondi (second or main courses). Generous, thin slices of veal are briefly sauteed with baby artichoke hearts, fresh mushrooms and cream in a sherry sauce. A hefty portion of rigatoni in red sauce and a gathering of sliced yellow beets finished the picture.

A luncheon special of braised, roast rabbit ($12.95) was attractive in a sage and rosemary tomato sauce, but the rosemary was too dominant and the dish was somewhat dry and over-salted.

Several desserts (around $3) are offered, including a rewarding Belgian chocolate mousse done with Amaretto, and a decent Cappuccino Caramello topped with a chocolate coffee bean.

Perche No fills early for pre-Seattle Center activities but empties out after 7:30 p.m., when the kitchen has time for more considered work.

(Copyright 1995, John Hinterberger. All rights reserved.) John Hinterberger, who writes the weekly restaurant review in Tempo and a Sunday food column in Pacific, visits restaurants anonymously and unannounced. He pays in full for all food, wines and services. Interviews of the restaurants' management and staff are done only after meals and services have been appraised. He does not accept invitations to evaluate restaurants.