Back To School In Uniforms -- More Public Schools Are Adopting Dress Codes

For those who don't remember the '60s and '70s, the nation was in the grip of a cultural revolution. Music, literature and fashion were all whipped into a creative frenzy by the muse of personal freedom. Those who were in school at that time remember the bastions of conformity and regimentation falling to the rallying cry, "Long hair for boys and bell bottoms for everybody!"

Now those same baby boomers find themselves parents - and here's the ironic twist - parents who are deeply concerned about their own children's lack of discipline and manners, the chaos in their schools and those baggy, baggy jeans . . .

Enter the school uniform. All over the United States, public schools - especially those in urban areas where problems with gangs, poor attendance and low test scores are epidemic - are choosing to require uniforms for their students. Recognizing the trend, a number of major retailers have set up uniform departments; some are taking their wares to special sale days at the schools.

Several elementary and middle schools in Seattle, and in Pierce and Kitsap counties, either will have students in uniforms this fall, will evaluate the idea (see accompanying list). Eastside and Snohomish County school officials report that their districts have not yet addressed the uniform/dress code issue.

Why are so many schools, locally and nationally, turning to the school uniform? Most share a desire for better attendance, better academic performance, and a sense of pride and belonging. They think school uniforms are a start toward those goals.

Local school officials say uniform policies in other parts of the country indicate there is dramatic improvement in all of the above. In a newsletter to parents, Venita Ellick, principal at Gordon Elementary School in Kingston, wrote that in these schools, "teachers recorded a drop in absenteeism and tardiness, an increase in academic achievement, grades and test scores and less time spent dealing with inappropriate dress related to gang colors, alcohol or drug messages, and a sense of pride and community . . ."

John Stanford, Seattle's new superintendent and a former Army major general, said, "I agree with uniforms in schools. They decrease competition between students; develop esprit de corps; and assist in security (students in uniforms are easily distinguishable from non-students)." Stanford added that uniforms provide a visual standard to which all students can hold themselves.

Success at Long Beach

There will be no blue jeans at Seattle's South Shore Middle School this fall. Principal John German says he was inspired to consider dress codes after reading about a district in New York and another in Long Beach, Calif., where uniforms were credited with improving safety and academic achievement.

"I was in Long Beach on business and decided to visit the school district office and some of the schools where the policy was enacted," German said. "I took pictures, talked to students and teachers, and came away convinced we could and should establish our own uniform policy."

Basic, tailored and affordable were the three criteria school officials and parents agreed on.

"We opted for two colors, navy and white," German said. "For boys: Navy straight-legged pants, no larger than one size bigger at the waist and one inch off the ground. The shirts are white with a mandatory collar and have to be tucked in. If there's a belt loop, there has to be a belt. For girls: Navy jumpers, skirts, walking shorts, slacks with a white blouse tucked in. No jeans for boys or girls."

The costs of these items range, depending on the retailer, from $9 to $35. The difference in price reflects the quality of the material used and the construction of the garment.

How has this sea change come about? In terms of fashion, it's a conservative trend that's fairly easy to trace. Roz Shelby-Staub, director of fashion design at the Art Institute of Seattle, believes it's partly a reaction to what has gone before: the emphasis on being different, surprising, even shocking.

"We're seeing that from every age group to every economic area, there's a desire to fit in, be a part of a larger group." Shelby-Staub added that the new suits for men are again tailored, and that women's clothing is structured and form-fitting in a classic way. "Very Grace Kelly, very Audrey Hepburn." The school uniform is an extension of that time, a reflection of the social mores, she said. Can you imagine little Grace or Audrey wearing anything else to school?

Retailers jump aboard

The national trend to school uniforms has caught the interest of several major retailers. Those quick to market directly to schools and parents have been J.C. Penney's, Hanna Anderson and Land's End, which have included uniform-like clothing in their back-to-school catalogs. Nordstrom, (especially at the Southcenter store), Sear's, Mervyn's and Target now stock school uniform clothing.

"Marketing data from J.C. Penney's headquarters in the Midwest indicates that in Detroit, one out of five elementary and middle schools has a uniform program," said Penney's Northwest district operations manager, Don Wetter. "That came about because of gang, safety and expense issues." Penney's uniform catalog has a two-year history, Wetter said, and the division has seen more success in some areas of the country than others. "Seattle is among the top contenders in terms of marketing response."

Nordstom representatives have said the store created its own inventory number for uniform and dress code sales, as well as a special school uniform department.

Lauren Alonzo, a children's clothing buyer at Nordstrom downtown store, said there is excitement surrounding the new division because the retailer has been selling clothing on-site. "We've been loading up trucks with merchandise and cash registers and taking everything directly to the schools," she said. Nordstrom has shared space at the on-site sales events with Mervyn's, J.C. Penney, Target and Sears.

Since school clothes make up a big part of every family's budget, parents, said school officials, should be pleased. A minimum number of clothing items for one student for the year can amount to hundreds of dollars. By comparison, said Gaile McLaurin, principal at Tacoma's Mason Middle School, "with a school uniform you can outfit your child for the entire school year for about $100." Mason Middle School's wear-a-uniform policy begins this fall.

While many principals, teachers and parents seem to be expecting a great deal from this new policy, German admonishes them to keep their hopes modest.

"This is not necessarily going to make for better test scores, or make these kids better people," he said, "but it will help students concentrate on what they're here to do. And it will allow the teachers to concentrate more on teaching and less on handling disputes. It'll help us do our jobs."

Robin Hamilton is a Seattle-based freelance writer.

-------------------------------------- SEVERAL LOCAL SCHOOLS OPT FOR UNIFORMS --------------------------------------

The Seattle School District provided the following list of Seattle schools with a new uniform/dress code policy for the 1995-96 school year.

Elementary Schools: Beacon Hill, Brighton, Coleman, Viewlands. (Dearborn Park and Kimball are polling parents.)

Middle Schools: Meany, Washington, South Shore. (Being considered at McClure Middle School.)

High Schools: To date, only Ingraham High School is considering the change.

In Pierce and Kitsap counties, the following schools are adopting a uniform policy:

Bryant Elementary and Mason Middle School in Tacoma, and Gordon Elementary in Kingston. The Bryant and Gordon school policies are voluntary.

Parents interested in finding out more about school uniform costs and selections should call the following retailers at these numbers:

-- For Mervyn's school uniform program, call (800) 435-9385.

-- For information on Nordstrom's uniform program, call (206) 439-4127.

-- To order a Penney's catalog, call (800) 501-1212.

-- Sears is offering $5 discounts for uniform purchases of $35 or more; for more information, call your local Sears children's department.

-- Target's school uniform department in the Kent store, (206) 850-9710.