Foody Goody Buffet Is Huge, Tasty Spread

----------------------------------------------------------------- Restaurant review

Foody Goody Chinese buffet restaurant, 601 S. Grady Way (in Renton Village), Renton, 227-8898. Lunch: Monday-Friday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m., $4.99. Brunch: Saturday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; Sunday 10 a.m.-3 p.m., $5.99. Dinner: Monday-Thursday, 4-9 p.m., $8.99; Friday and Saturday, until 11 p.m.; Sunday, until 10 p.m. , $9.99. Children under 4, $1.99 at any meal; children 4-10, $3.99-$5.99. Full bar. Major credit cards accepted. -----------------------------------------------------------------

The huge Foody Goody dining room looked like a wedding reception or another celebration was taking place, given the noise and bustle. It was apparent that most everyone else also had had it with holiday turkey leftovers and wanted to eat something different and a tad exotic.

But not too exotic, especially if you're trying to please the picky kids and those pesky relatives from Kansas.

The nearly new Foody Goody - it opened mid-October - offers something to whet the appetite of nearly all who enter its doors and throw a coin in its wishing well. The national chain bills itself as the "first and largest Chinese buffet restaurant in Washington," and it's hard to argue with that assessment.

With more than 100 items arranged neatly in five, 18-foot buffet tables, it's not difficult to find at least something to satisfy the taste buds.

At first, though, I was skeptical. I like my food spicy, and my initial trip through the tables didn't leave me too hopeful. I was pleased, though, to see many dishes with "No MSG" tags and a few labeled "spicy." But what were onion rings, mashed potatoes and six colors of Jell-O doing among the Szechuan and Cantonese items?

On my return trip, I found some sauce that a server assured me was hot. I poured it liberally over the yummy fried noodles, and quickly lived to regret my action. The noodles were so spicy I had to rush over and get a dish of chocolate-mint ice cream (there were nine other varieties to choose from) to soothe my mouth. Ouch.

My more-cautious dining companion found some dishes he enjoyed. The garlic spare ribs, Mongolian beef, mussels in black-bean sauce and hot-and-sour soup (one of six varieties offered) all got thumbs up.

However, he said the food was not as spicy - and the variety not as wide - as he has found in other Chinese restaurants. And some food, like the egg rolls, tasted as if they'd sat in the steam a few too many minutes (or hours?).

Still, it's obvious that the buffet concept is a big hit, and being able to choose among American and Chinese dishes is very popular when you have more than one eater to please. So, if you don't like chow mein, then nearby is ham, mashed potatoes, roast beef, fresh fruit and even pasta in seafood sauce.

There were many families with young children in tow, and the kids seemed to relish choosing their food. Two youngsters walked by our table with heaping plates of French fries and fried rice. Later they went back for pastries and also made a couple trips to the self-service ice cream area.

Lunch is popular with office workers nearby; the buffet has fewer meat and seafood dishes.

The staff is friendly and helpful, clearing used plates so you don't feel guilty going back. They circulate frequently with water pitchers and additional napkins.

This is a good family restaurant, but you probably wouldn't choose it for a romantic meal. The tables are close together, and it's all one big room with no dividers. The noise level can be high if there are a number of children or loud talkers. And if smoke bothers you, ask for a table at the opposite side of the room from the smoking area.