Wine 93 Dine -- High Nooners

Lunch matters.

"Since Eve ate apples," wrote Lord Byron, "much depends on dinner." However, apples or oranges, Eve or no Eve, often more depends on lunch.

The midday meal has taken on a social and occupational significance unknown in America since the days when we were an agrarian society.

The reasons are both apparent and elusive. American families are changing. American work patterns have changed dramatically in just the past 20 years. Statistically, few workers expect to come home to a spouse (Eve or Adam) who has spent hours preparing the main meal - unless it's merely an apple.

For many of us, if not most, the largest, most nutritionally balanced meal we will eat all day will be consumed outside the home - sometime between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m.

Dinner in many households is becoming supper again.

Lunch is becoming dinner. Which in a way is what it used to be - when it wasn't breakfast. At the risk of sowing hopeless confusion, "dinner" (about 500 years ago) was the first main meal of the day.

The Latin and French roots of "dinner" meant to dis-abstain. The fast-breaking usually took place between 9 a.m. and noon. Only our workaday Western world shoved dinner into the evening, after all the money-making (for you or somebody else) was done.

Where did "lunch" come from? From luncheon, of course. Which came from the Middle English word "none chench."

No, it didn't mean nonsense. It meant noon drink in Merry English. And I can just hear Richard III complain mightily about all the peasants and squires taking three-mead nunches.

Seattle has become a solidly fine lunch town. Where once we had a few notable white-linen spots serving scaled-down dinners alongside dozens of mostly mediocre soup, salad and sandwich shops, we now have a hospitality industry that knows what side its bread is buttered on - and at what time of day it serves a lot of it.

We meet at lunch. We work at lunch. We host at lunch. We are treated to lunch. We splurge and we pinch pennies at lunch. We fall in love at lunch. We start and end affairs at lunch.

What follows is a roundup of places to do some or all of the above. But please, not at the same time.

-------------- BUSINESS LUNCH --------------

The business lunch is hard to define, especially if you are trying to justify it to an IRS auditor. But most of us know when we are working in order to eat - and when we are eating in order to work.

It may be duty, but it doesn't have to be a chore. Here are some spots that may ease the queasiness of a boss going from soup to nuts or a sweet deal going sour.

-- Raga Cuisine of India, 555 108th Ave. N.E., Bellevue. A couple of blocks from the commercial center of the Eastside, Raga is that increasingly rare kind of East Indian restaurant: a reliable spot where authentic culinary excellence always outshines ethnic kitch.

Owners Kamal Mroce and Bill Khanna, from north India by way of the Bombay Palace operation in Vancouver, B.C., put out a lunch buffet of 10 fresh "salads" (cold entrees) and five hot dishes for $6.95, daily except Saturdays.

The Tandoori Chicken and Chicken or Lamb Masalas are usually represented, along with assorted biryanis, lentils and freshly baked naan.

It's not exactly a quick lunch snack, but consider trying their unique rack of lamb, marinated in garlic and fresh ginger with crushed India spices, and then flash-roasted in the clay-pot Tandoor oven.

There's a full bar, but you must have the mango lassi, if only to offset that Bombay Martini.

From 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday through Friday. 450-0336.

-- McCormick and Schmick's Seafood Restaurant, 1103 First Ave. Call the interior design Instant Institution. Dark woods and carpet, substantial furniture, waitstaff in black and whites - all combined with a look that is a cross between venerable men's club and turn-of-the-century Northwest tavern.

But Bill McCormick and Doug Schmick built this quintessential fish house only a decade ago, based on Portland and Bay Area models like the Tadich Grill. It has succeeded enormously (check out the bar at 5 p.m. on a Friday), not because of either concept or decor, but because of a vast, scrupulously maintained fresh sheet of available seafood - and value. For $4.95 there's a daily changing lunch offering.

Seven oyster choices, like the $8.95 Half Dozen Sampler, are congenial possibilities for shared starters. A wide range of seafood grills anchor the menu, but salads are frequent midday favorites. Try the Hot Seafood Salad, with sherry-hazelnut vinaigrette ($7.80) over a mix of wild and cultivated greens. Blackened Rainbow Trout with tomato-ginger chutney ($6.95) shows a nod to Fusion Cooking inroads, but most dishes reflect sturdy regional standards. I've had some of the best White King Salmon filets - ever - simply grilled and swiftly presented.

Great place to take out-of-towners, as well.

From 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday. 623-5500.

-- Julia's Park Place, 5410 Ballard Ave. N.W. The business-and-merchant get-together can start as early as 7 a.m. in Ballard, and Julia Miller is there to accommodate. Miller began in Eastlake as a breakfast and lunch impresario with a counter-cultural bent, but expanded her locations (and menus) - and perhaps softened philosophies along the way.

Miller's Ballard spot - bright, airy and welcoming - is in the extensively reworked former Ballard Eagles hall from the turn of the century. Miller still offers the memorable carrot cake that made her reputation, and you really ought to try it. Especially after a noon meal that has heartfelt health-food designs.

Citrus Glazed Scallops, with water chestnuts, mushrooms, peppers, celery in a light, tangy sauce over fresh spinach, brown rice and a salad ($7.25) is a typical item. Thai Yellow Curry ($6.50 for chicken; $7.50 for prawns) is boldly seasoned, lively but not throat-searing.

Terrific setting: lots of natural wood, overhead fans, enthusiastic, dedicated service.

Open for lunch 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday through Friday; 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday; 1 to 5 p.m. Saturday; no lunch Sunday. 783-2033.

-- Metropolitan Grill, 818 Second Ave. Where's the beef? Here.

The Met built its local reputation on quality steaks, and that reputation has, if anything, continued to grow and broaden. You don't have to content yourself with steak and potatoes. (Although you can. Lunch-sized steaks are from $13 to $15, as opposed to their larger dinner brethren, which run up to $25).

Consolidated Restaurants owns and runs it, with a sure-fire (and smoke) notion of what has worked for them. A large, lively bar with black and white tiles inset against a deep-green floral-patterned rug, rugged padded bar stools with polished wood bases, lots of people. And generosity.

The key to the Met has always been an ongoing assurance that there would always be splendid excess. Good drinks, elbow-to-elbow customers, overwhelming cuts and chops, grand salads (try the grilled chicken-breast salad) and the intriguing likelihood that your financial competition is whispering in the adjacent booth. A black board keeps track of the winning predictions by customers of Dow Jones yearly finishes.

This is not buttoned-down business, however. It's fun, breezy and satisfying, with a clientele that may leave at 1 p.m. and drop back in at 5 for another hour or two.

Final word, since it opened, I've never had anything less than a perfect steak there.

From 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Monday through Friday. No lunch weekends. 624-3287.

-- Benihana Restaurant, IBM Building, 1200 Fifth Avenue. The novelty may have worn off, but the cutlery is still sharp.

It was a theatrical offshoot of Japanese cookery that first made its American impact a quarter-century ago: the flash of acrobatic knives, the swift sizzle of beef on gleaming grills, table-side banter as the chef serves as combination cook-host and quipster.

Benihana came to Seattle 23 years ago. It still performs the same culinary rites, and it has them down - both the skills and the banter. Owned by the Chalon Corporation of Japan (which also owns Kamon on Lake Union) it will likely have the routines even more secure a quarter-century hence.

This is more of a place to impress a client than to schmooze, however, with pairs or small groups often seated with strangers. It's affordable at lunch, with many items in the $5 to $6 range. You can do three courses, including a salad, soup and dessert for under $10.

"You wonder," though, as one friend noted, "how many times the chef has flipped the butter tub in the air and caught it, saying, `Butter flies.' "

High marks for the Hibachi Calamari ($5.50) and pleasant salads with the house ginger-soy dressing.

From 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday. 682-4686.

-- A. Jay's, 2619 First Ave. Essentials with speed. The place opens at 7 a.m. daily and serves the lunch menu until midafternoon. The combination of bustle, rapid turnover of tables and the presence of at a least a handful of customers waiting for an empty table, lend a sense of culinary utilitarianism; the maximum good for the maximum number.

Yet, somehow, you always seem to get a seat. Service is brisk. And the food - generous sandwiches in the $5 to $6 range; pastas, soups, salads - is presented with a sense of style, if not high art.

It's one of the few places in town that offer the New York specialty with an Italian name, Pasta Primavera ($5.95), on the menu regularly. A Jay's has a very "New York" feel.

Most popular are the grilled chicken-breast sandwiches ($5.95 to $6.95 depending on the toppings: mushrooms, marinara, mozzarella, pepperjack cheese, etc.) and burgers. Don't overlook a particularly sloppy meatball sub or grand Italian sausage sub with Cascioppo Brothers fixings.

Host Alan J. Rugoff started serving white-linen dinners last summer.

From 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily. 441-1511.

---------------- SEE AND BE SEEN. ----------------

A major attraction of the midday meal has always been to break out of the work patterns of the day - and see who else came out to play.

Most restaurants can serve that purpose. But some are better suited than others. And without doubt, there are some places you would RATHER be seen at than others. Here are some of the select.

Saleh al Lago, 6804 E. Greenlake Way N.

It's in. Somehow it has always been in. And not for reasons of fleeting fashion or passing fancy. It has without question the most loyal following in Seattle - educators, musicians, financiers, politicians and food professionals.

The food is superb. The quality impeccable. The service knowing and sure.

Half of the fun is seeing who else has showed up. A university president, a returning congressman, a symphony conductor, or merely some of the other top chefs in the city?

Start with the best Calamari saute ($5.75) in town, not deep-fried, but pan-tossed with olive oil, lemon juice and garlic. The Gamberetti e Fagioli ($5.25; shrimp with Tuscan beans) is grand, as is the delectable warm spinach salad ($4.50).

Ravioli con Noci ($9.50), in a sherry cream sauce with walnuts, always delights, as do the Filetto al Marsala ($11.50) or (my favorite) Vitella alla Milanese ($13.25).

All pasta, desserts, pastries and gelati made fresh daily on the premises by owner-chef Saleh Joudeh.

From 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Monday through Friday. 524-4044.

-- Al Boccalino, 1 Yesler Way.

When it first opened almost five years ago, Al Boccalino drew a sudden midday crush that included half of the Italian chefs, restaurateurs and specialty suppliers in the city, along with a predictable ton of attorneys and City Hall types.

Then owner Kenny Rader closed for lunch for a spell, recently reopening in mid-October to the relief of thousands. The dining room, with its sandblasted brick walls, is about as cozy as they get. You not only can see most of the clientele; with a judicious ear (and the blank face of a spy) you can overhear them.

In the process, don't overlook chef Tim Roth's superior cooking. The daily risotti are as good as any - anywhere. Pastas, such as the Penne Regate, the Housemade Ravioli, or the Angel Hair Pasta with Dungeness Crab and red chile pepper are the top of the craft. Prices at lunch are from $6 to $11.

One of the oldest addresses in Seattle, and one of the most charming.

From 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday-Friday. 622-7688.

-- The Dahlia Lounge, 1904 Fourth Ave.

Owner-chef Tom Douglas has become the spiritual center of Seattle's Pan-Pacific revival. Since his days at the old Cafe Sport (now an adjunct to a sports club), Douglas has charted a daring course through a sea of multicultural surprises. Expect the unexpected. The unusual is usual.

Douglas' pairings of Asian and Northwest traditions have made his place a Mecca for foodies, writers and restaurant consultants.

The House Specialty Crab Cakes (you can get a half order for $8.50) will be served with fresh vegetables, but might also be coupled with "Wild West Salsa."

Gnocchi ($5.50 for a half-order; $9.95 for a major undertaking) come topped with a sautee of wild mushrooms, roasted red pepper, in a Gorgonzola cream sauce, all presented over a bed of wild greens. The daily pasta specials are $9.50; consider the penne alla carbonara, made with imported pancetta.

The long, somewhat narrow dining room on the lower level seems made for people watching - and for the most part, they usually seem worth the effort.

From 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday (we'd love to see this place open for Saturday shoppers): 682-4142.

-- Palomino Bistro, 1420 Fifth Ave.

When Restaurants Unlimited built the Palomino Bistro two flights up from the street, over the lobby of the Pacific First Center, two questions popped up:

Would anybody find it?

And what did they mean by "bistro?"

The answers were: Yes, in droves. And, a lot.

A bistro may be a small little wine bar in France, with a short list of specials, but Palomino is nothing like that. Big, spacious, trendy, sophisticated and with a menu as vast as the square footage.

Which is just as well. Palomino draws. The wood-burning ovens, the designer pizzas, the various roast fowl and meats, are part of the attraction. The rest appears to be the clientele itself. Attractive, chic, aware.

You should be aware of the Spit Roasted Duck Cakes ($7.50), rich but not heavy, and served with a red pepper rouille, radicchio relish and hazelnut bread crumbs.

Try the Mediterranean Chicken Linguini ($10.95), which is massive. (You can specify half-orders for most of the lunch items, and, unless you have a refrigerator back at work for storing leftovers, probably should.) Alaska King Salmon ($18.95) is excellent, if a bit of a splurge, and served with artichoke sauce tartar (a trifle bland).

The Tiramisu ($4.95), rated by a friend from the Italian neighborhoods of South Philly, "was incredible. I think I actually said, `Oh, my God.' "

Don't overlook the imaginative, thin-crust pizzas. They discovered the recipe in Rome.

Open for lunch Monday through Saturday 11:15 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. 623-1300.

--------------- HUNGRY VISITORS ---------------

TOURISTS are arriving. And they are YOURS! Where can you take them and know they'll talk about it for months afterwards?

-- The Space Needle, 219 Fourth Ave. N., at the southeast corner of the Seattle Center, is everybody's most obvious choice. Too obvious? Maybe, but don't discount it.

In its three decades of operation, there have been few who yawned at the panoramic view of the city, sound and mountains. Although many may afterward have gawked at the bill. It's pricey, but the ride to the top is now free - if you're a restaurant customer. Sunday brunches are popular ($18 to about $20, which is a few bucks more than the regular lunch menu. But the brunch includes complimentary champagne, a fruit basket, a basket of pastries and an appetizer plate.

This is a kitchen geared to serve hundreds of thousands a year - don't expect wild innovation or daring seasonings. Some options: Broiled King Salmon, Smoked Chicken Pasta, Seafood Pasta alla Putanesca (less spicy or saucy than its namesake) and the ample Crab or Shrimp Louis. Figure on $13 to $15 each for lunch.

It's been said that no matter what gets served at the Needle, nothing could successfully compete with the view. Give the Needle credit for at least trying.

11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. daily (Sunday brunch 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.). 443-2100.

-- Copacabana, Triangle Market Building, 1520 1/2 Pike Place Market. The fare is Bolivian, with some Mexican and Chilean accents. The outlook is over the crammed streets and passageways of the Pike Place Market below. Recipes from the family of founder Ramon Pelaez still prevail, including the piquant shrimp soup (Sopa de Camarones) that put the restaurant on the local gustatorial map. One of the few places in town to serve Paella ($7.50) on a regular basis. Try the Huminta ($3), highly seasoned corn cakes covered with cheese; also the Pescado a la Espanola ($7.50), poached fish - usually halibut when available - with a tomato-onion sauce.

The real draw here, however, is a table above the market hustle, while your visitors reload the camera. Winter hours are 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and 11:30 to 6 p.m. Sunday. 622-6359.

-- Chinook's at Salmon Bay, 1900 W. Nickerson St., Fishermen's Terminal. Views of the city's working fishing fleet - arriving, departing, at rest or under repair, but picturesque. Nets, fresh paint (or new rust) and the skyline of Ballard beyond.

The restaurant, in a multimillion-dollar remodel by the Port of Seattle, is run by the Anthony's HomePort local seafood chain. Some would argue it's their best. Great blue-collar ambiance, with a noisy, lively central bar. Expect to pay $8 to $12 for Char Grilled Halibut with lemon and oregano butter; or Grilled Canadian King Salmon with a sun-dried tomato and basil-butter sauce; or a Blue Plate Ling Cod Special. Shellfish, large salads, chowders, seafood stews. Desserts are usually a strong point, especially the freshly baked fruit cobblers and an occasionally gloppy Baked Alaska.

Place gets busy. Service gets periodic pep talks and occasionally needs them.

Daily 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Dining room nonsmoking. Full bar. 283-4665.

-- Athenian Inn, 1517 Pike Place Market. For an arriving out-of-towner you can't get more "Seattle" than this. Heart of the market, established first as a bakery-lunch house by three Greek brothers in 1909, one of the first spots in town to sell beer and wine in 1933, it has long been tumultuous and grimy, exuberant and gritty. And, it seems, almost always jammed.

The menu is huge - more than 200 choices - with a seafood leaning. But expect little in the way of sophistication. Simple fish grills are adequate and affordable, sometimes less so. Probably the only place in town where the waitresses serve tables with a city street map tucked into their aprons. Draft beer before noon is half-price (You can get a schooner of Guinness Stout for 75 cents). Something like 29 "dessert" wines - read strong and sweet - are posted behind the bar. The upstairs rear tables, however, have splendid views of the harbor. Service can be both tardy and abrupt, but owner-greeter Louise Cromwell is a harbor of congeniality in the daily commercial storm. Counter seats get no view (except of the crush of humanity) but quicker vittles. Open daily from 6:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. 624-7166.

-- Sam's Cafe, Seattle Art Museum, First Avenue at University Street. If the pop-art pretentiousness of the Hammering Man hasn't put you and your guests off your feed, you'll find some artful presentations at modest prices inside. Food for the cafe is actually catered by the highly professional kitchen of the Seattle Sheraton Hotel and Towers. The Alder-smoked Salmon Chowder is cheap ($2.25) and good. Vegetarians will enjoy the bountiful Vegetarian Sandwich on 12-grain bread ($5.95). Daily Blue Plate Specials are posted at $6.95 and finely crafted - like the Beef Enchiladas with Ginger Rice and Melon. Wide array of sandwiches at $5.95 and meal-sized salads for $4.95.

11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Noon to 5 p.m. Sunday; closed Monday. 654-3245.

-- The Pink Door, 1919 Post Alley. The discreet, almost anonymous entry on the west side of a downtown alley a block above the Pike Place Market suggests insider status before you even get through the front door. The perception doesn't change much afterwards. The Pink Door has been an in spot since it opened years ago, bubbling fountain in the main dining room notwithstanding. It has a bistro feel indoors and offers cosmopolitan suntans on the adjacent roof terrace. The pastas are reliable, the house wines (served in individual, corkable green bottles) affordable.

The house antipasto spread ($7.95) is huge - and sharable. Luncheon sandwiches, like the Panini Brutti, with eggplant, roasted peppers and fresh mozzarella cheese, go for about $7.50. Try not to be put off by the precious cooing of the answering machine. ("Darling, I'm so GLAD you called . . .") They really are.

11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, darling: 443-3241.

----------- TETE A TETE -----------

Head to head.

Lunch is more than mere nutrition. It is a social act, as well. The getting together of people for an hour of conversation, mutual appreciation or perhaps just exploration is as old as humanity.

Some restaurants facilitate crowds and laughter; others are better suited to couples. Here are some places where you can seem to be alone, when you want to be - or need to be.

-- The Hunt Club, Sorrento Hotel, 900 Madison St.

I once asked a gathering for nominations for the most romantic restaurant in Seattle - THE place for proposing marriage (or anything else).

The response was sure and swift: "The Hunt Club," a male friend said. "That place reeks sex."

It does, and it's not just the dark, polished wood that almost glows in the low light, or the flame reflected in burnished panels from the fireplace in the Lobby Bar. There's the sense of time and tradition and history - a connection with a more elegant, unhurried past.

There is also uncommonly fine food. The Hunt Club, and the Sorrento Hotel itself, under the smooth leadership of Alex De Toth, have championed the highest kitchen standards for years - and through a succession of fine chefs.

The present luminary is Christine Keff.

Set aside enough time. Service can be as leisurely as it is stately. As one woman colleague suggested, "If you go with a loved one, take the afternoon off and enjoy the ambiance."

The menu changes with the season. Earlier this year we enjoyed the Field Salad with Gouda Cheese and Lemon Vinaigrette ($5), the incredible White Corn and Lobster Tamale with Red Pepper appetizer ($8.50), leading up to the Grilled Salmon with Chipotl Vinaigrette ($14) and the innovative Trio of Shrimp ($12.50), wrapped in rice paper, rolled with lettuce and fried with sweet potatoes.

Or you could just start across the street at Vito's with the special martini, come back to the Sorrento, dine, go upstairs and crash (it's been done) in style.

From 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday. Brunch 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. 343-6156.

-- Wild Ginger, 1400 Western Ave. Rick and Ann Yoder opened their dream restaurant four years ago, after spending months living in Southeast Asia and dining in the multicultural ports of call along the South China Sea.

The menu reflects both the exotica and the culinary diversity of faraway places. The cooks are Cambodian and the menu is pure adventure. The flash-grilled satays are jewels of flavor and color - beef, prawns, scallops, pork, chicken, assorted fresh vegetables with sculpted mounds of rice and various sauces. The Wun Tun Mein noodle soup ($7.25) is perfect for a chilly late-fall day, or even more hearty, a bowl of steaming brown and white rice topped with Thai Green Curry Chicken ($7.95) or the Indonesian classic, Lamb Bumbu ($8.95), with an intense, complex sauce.

Service is great. Top it all off with (what else?) Ginger Sorbet.

11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Saturday. 623-4450.

-- Kokeb, 926 12th Ave. Belete and Yeshi Shiferaw created this piece of Ethiopian East Africa a dozen years ago on Capitol Hill. The simple frame building feels like a cross between a grange hall and a casbah.

With lower light, it may be more romantic at night, but eating with your fingers from the same plate as your mealmate is surprisingly sensuous. As one woman friend noted: "It's like finding yourself in a scene from `Casablanca.' "

Sensuality aside, lunches are cheap and good. Ignore the gestures to Western tastes (like spaghetti) and cut to the daily specials or one of the spicy stews. Midday combo plates are as low as $4.95.

Try Sega Tibs (stir-fried beef, pepper and onions) or Doro Tibs - the same dish made with chicken, Bueg Wat (a spicy lamb stew) or Doro wat, a boldly seasoned chicken dish served with a boiled egg.

A vegetarian combination might include a spicy pea stew, lentils and a medley of stewed cabbage, carrots and split peas.

11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday. 322-0485.

-- Il Bistro, 93-A Pike St. The subterranean setting, the low-ceiling interior, the hum of an always busy stepdown bar to your right, lend an atmosphere of cozy isolation.

The menu underwent a major shift in late September to "a more rustic Italian emphasis," said chef Dino Daquila (whose father, Frank, was one of the restaurant's founders. Present owners are Dale Abrams and Tom Martino.

Most dishes are in the $9 to $10 range, with an increasing inclusion of fresh seafood from the market upstairs.

Carry-overs from the former menu are the "skillet" salads. Hot morsels, such as smoked salmon or chicken, are combined with spices, herbs (such as marinated coriander) seasonings, red onions, etc., and in some instances cheeses such as Roquefort or blue, and served over wild greens for around $8.95.

There's a tasty mixed seafood grill for $11.50. Tiramisu, the dessert rage that has become ubiquitous, is served in a goblet with very light cream, lady fingers and nuts.

There's no view. Other than your partner.

Noon to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. 682-3049.

-- Serafina, 2043 Eastlake Ave. E. An appealing example of a neighborhood restaurant that manages, nevertheless, to draw a dedicated clientele from all over the city.

Part of the appeal is the Euro-bistro menu, which benefits from a decided Italian accent. The rest is from a subdued light interior with dark floors that lend a sense of togetherness that borders on conspiracy.

You can see the food quite well, however, and it's worthy of contemplation.

Start with the Insalata di Pancetta e Formaggio ($6.95), wild greens (have we run out of domesticated ones lately?) tossed with a warm vinaigrette, goat cheese, pears and pancetta (Italian bacon).

Ravioli della Casa ($7.95), stuffed with wild mushrooms and served with a fresh tomato sauce, are sometimes cooked decidedly al dente. Look for a different ravioli special every day. Penne con Agnello ($7.95) is a regular daily special; chunks of lamb trimmed from the shank, tossed with the pen-shaped pasta, onion, mushrooms and carrot in a reduction sauce.

The Creme Caramel ($3.50) is irresistible; smooth, creamy with creme fraiche and a few sliced strawberries.

From 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday. 323-0807.

-- Queen City Grill, 2201 First Ave.

It's a reconditioned First Avenue tavern that managed to make the transition from a low-down dive to an upbeat, contemporary hangout with an uptown clientele.

The high-back booths provide relative isolation, but with a view of some lively counter action. The Grill, with its vintage '46 Cadillac parked out front, keeps its sense of old-time Seattle.

Owners Peter Lamb (formerly of Il Bistro) and Steven Good opened the place six years ago. Good (who owns the Caddy) also operates the Belltown Billiards downstairs.

Chef Paul Michael's talents are considerable. It's not uncommon to see visiting food professionals hanging around the open-kitchen counter space.

The house Caesar Salad ($3.95 or $6.95, depending upon portion size) is outstanding, properly made with spears of Romaine, instead of ripped leaves. You might order it with a starter of toast rounds, roasted garlic, peppers and goat cheese (also $6.95).

Very popular are the warm entree salads: priced from $7.95 (for grilled chicken) to $12 for a mixed seafood grill served over a blend of greens and wild greens.

The Cajun Chicken Sandwich ($7.95), highly seasoned and pan-blackened, is served on a burger bun. The N.Y. Strip Steak Sandwich ($10.95) is aggressively dotted with peppercorns and a frequent favorite.

Good spot. And if your date fizzles, you can always retreat downstairs and shoot pool.

From 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Friday. 443-0975.

-- Ponti Seafood Grill, 3014 Third Ave. N. After years of wrangling with the city over building permits and easements, the restaurant teams of Jim and Connie Malevitsis and Rich and Sharon Malia opened their canal-side view place in late 1990.

There's a view from almost every table in the place, a good bar near the entry, and a truly stunning menu assembled by chef Alvin Binuya, whose "fusion cooking," a blend of local and Asian techniques and ingredients, attracted national television coverage by CNN a few months ago.

Binuya worked with, and was influenced by, Tom Douglas of the Dahlia Lounge, when both worked at the former Cafe Sport (now a private club restaurant). His combinations of different ethnic elements - especially Italian and Asian - are genuine marvels of imagination and daring.

His Thai Curry Penne ($12.50) has become almost legendary. Grilled King Salmon ($11.25) is served with savory portobello mushroom-stuffed ravioli.

Desserts - such as white chocolate creme caramel ($3.75) and chocolate mousse cake ($4.50) - are equally ingenious and cruelly seductive.

From 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Sunday brunch from 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. 284-3000.

---------------- `I'M NOT BUYING' ----------------

At times the best lunch you've had may have been the one that someone paid for. Here are some picks when someone else is treating.

-- Il Terrazzo Carmine, 411 First Ave. S. Carmine Smeraldo's "terrace" isn't really all that pricey ($9.95 to $11.50 for most midday meals), but it can add up. Regardless of how much the bill is, however, or who ends up paying, it's almost always worth it. The pasta specials are superb. Sweetbreads are outstanding. Ravioli stuffed with venison and served with wild mushrooms ($10.50) is flat-out ambrosial. Try also the Linguini alla Vongole ($10.95) or the braised lamb shanks ($11.50). A bargain is the shared house Antipasto ($6.95 for two), with grilled veggies, calamari salad, olives, roasted red peppers and pickled mushrooms. Great, intimate atmosphere and the highest possible kitchen standards.

Ask if they've baked a Sicilian cheesecake that morning. Yes? Order it.

From 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday. 467-7797.

-- The Painted Table, 92 Madison St., Alexis Hotel. Chef Emily Moore's artistry shines through everything on a highly imaginative (but not foppish) midday menu. Expect the bill to run from $9 to $14 - and another $4 to $5 for dessert. Don't even think about skipping dessert (it's on the other person's plastic, anyway, even if it's on your conscience).

The Cambozola Salad ($8.50) is a knockout: oven-softened, ripe Bavarian blue cheese in a shell of roasted macadamia nuts, served with pickled plums, a port wine-Balsamic vinaigrette and spicy walnuts. The most "Northwest," Pan-Pacific creation on the luncheon list has to be the Salmon Sesame Dim Sum Salad ($9.95), a composed salad of rice-wrapped salmon mousse, shaped around marinated prawns and black sesame seeds. It's sliced and served with house-smoked salmon.

Moore's Penne Pasta ($9.95) is another stunner; smoked chicken, shiitake mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, ricotta and pine nuts tossed with pen-shaped al dente macaroni. Don't pass on the Espresso Creme Brulee with Hazelnut Shortbread ($4.50).

From 11:30 to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday. 624-3646.

-- Palisade, 2601 W. Marina Place, Smith Cove Park, Magnolia. The pleasure dome that Seattle-based Restaurants Unlimited made their Northwest flagship. It's a visual stunner that comes close to design overkill, but the sweeping view of the bay and the city skyline provides a more natural reality. Lunch prices are in the $8 to $16 range.

Palisade had growing pains with a complex, demanding menu when it first opened, but quickly found its culinary groove. I recommend the Flash-seared Scallops with Cabernet Glaze ($10.95) alongside Japanese noodles; any of the roast or grilled salmon dishes, especially those from the applewood roaster; and the wood-oven roasted Black Tiger Prawns ($9.95) in a garlic, shallot and lemon dressing, with a "medley" of roasted vegetables in season.

11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday; noon to 2 p.m. Saturdays. Sunday brunch: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

-- Nikko, 1900 Fifth Ave., Westin Hotel. Shiro Kashiba, the master chef who masterminded Nikko's shift from the International District to downtown Seattle a couple of years ago, has retired. But he was replaced by another veteran from the old Nikko, Hiroichi Shiroyama, and standards of excellence remain firmly in place. The gorgeous blond woods and bronze interiors, along with the single-tree cedar sushi bar, capture the initial impressions, but the artistry from the kitchen soon takes over.

For a varied sampler of what's offered, try the boxed Kaiseki Bento ($15), or dedicate yourself to assorted sushi, like the Dynamite Roll ($3.50), with cooked, spicy yellowtail, sprouts, cucumber, hot oil and caviar. Grilled Mackerel (Sabba Shioyaki, $7.50) is very flavorful, slightly oily and a touch salty - as it should be. Close with the green tea ice cream ($2).

Very popular with Asian businessmen, both domestic and imported. Deservedly so. Average lunch tab: $12.

11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday. 322-4641.

-- Georgian Room, Four Seasons Olympic Hotel, 411 University St.

There are two kinds of people who lunch at the Georgian: those who are accustomed to its grandeur, and those who are still a bit in awe of it. Both are well-heeled.

It's at the top of the list of Seattle's formal dining spaces: soaring ceilings, muted colors, subdued conversation with a piano background.

Every visiting dignitary in town - from the food professionals to hard-boiled authors - gets trotted through. I've lunched there with Julia Child - and Elmore Leonard.

The food is better than ever. British chef Kerry Sear is an artist. Literally. Every new dish that goes on the menu is first rendered in watercolors to record its visual appeal - and to lock in the minute details of presentation.

The lunch menu is not as costly as the surroundings might suggest. The Duck and Shrimp Chow Mein ($14.75) is very popular. As is the Vegetable and Tofu Curry with Basmati Rice ($12).

Penne Pasta with Smithfield Ham and Portobello Mushrooms can be yours for $12.50 - or only $7.50 if you order it as an appetizer.

Desserts are exceptional - and ornate.

From 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday. 621-7889.

--------------------- HERE'S TO YOUR HEALTH ---------------------

Lunch CAN be good for you. In fact, it ought to be. The name "restaurant" came from a fractured Latin phrase posted outside the first restaurant in 17th-century Paris: "Restaurare" - to restore.

-- Five Loaves Deli & Bakery, 2719 E. Madison St. The sign at the counter says it all: "No meat. No refined fats. No cholesterol. No eggs. No refined sugar."

If you haven't muttered, "No thanks," you're in the right place. The food is fresh, tastefully seasoned and properly cooked. As one determined taster noted: The key when eating strictly vegetarian is to concentrate not on what's missing, but what's on the plate. Like a lunch special of Chickpea a la King; garbanzos, mushrooms, red peppers and green peas in a creamy (but nondairy) sauce poured over South American quinoa - the miracle grain. It's not only good, but cheap ($2.99), with multigrain bread.

The Five Loaves is owned and run by the Seventh Day Adventist Church, which promotes, but doesn't require, vegetarianism from its members. The place is small, airy, bright and clean, with classical music and white walls.

Also: no smoking, no caffeine, no alcohol. But 13 varieties of bread baked daily.

Monday through Friday and Sunday: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Closed Saturdays. 726-7989.

-- BB Roasters, 31675 Pacific Highway S. in Federal Way. It's new, it's low-fat and it's fast. One of the keys is the use of hot-air convection roasters for meats and "fries." Another is low-fat yogurt substituted for cream in sauces. A wall chart details how little damage you are doing to yourself in precise percentages - and how much potential good.

Some items work better than others. Fat is what drives the flavors in grilled meats. BB Roasters burgers (the quarter pound Roaster: $2.69) taste somewhat bland, and one specimen arrived lukewarm.

Half chickens, however, fare better - good, flavorful, moist and only $3.99. French fries are good - and aren't fried.

10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. 946-7282.

-- Macheesmo Mouse, four locations: 4129 University Way N.E., 211 Broadway Ave. E., 701 Fifth Ave. (Columbia Center), a new site at 425 Queen Anne Ave., plus eight restaurants in Portland.

Mexican food, if you keep the fats out of it, is actually one of the healthiest diets on earth: corn, rice, beans, grains and assorted vegetables. You can live on it cheaply and long. Unfortunately, most North American translations add lipids and too much meat. Not, however, at Macheesmo Mouse, a Portland-based chain that has found followers in Seattle.

Prices are low, portions are generous, and cholesterol levels are minimal.

Try the Veggie Burrito ($4), a vast assembly of flour tortilla, brown rice, black beans, low-fat Jack cheese, salsa, mixed greens, veggies and a great Boss Sauce, hot, deep orange and liberally applied on almost everything. Only 650 calories, 10 percent of which comes from fat. Takes 45 minutes to eat. You can lose weight chewing.

You can also get the burrito with chicken or chili.

From 11 a.m. daily at the Broadway and U District shops; 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. at Columbia Center, which is closed weekends. Broadway site opens at noon on Sunday. 633-4658 (University), 325-0072 (Broadway), 282-9904 (Queen Anne) and 382-1730 (Columbia Center).

-- Sunlight Cafe, 6403 Roosevelt Way N.E. Pure, straight from the 1970s counter-culture brown-rice vegetarianism; sandals, rag wool socks and all. But it's welcoming, nourishing and relaxed.

I generally avoid nutburgers, but had a good one here ($5.55), soup or salad included.

In the middle of a growing strip of ethnic restaurants across from Roosevelt Square, it makes sense across the street from Dania, with its sturdy but cheap Danish furniture. It's friendly, casual and somehow very earnest.

Joe and Margaret Noone opened the spot in 1976, with homemade breads and pastries, commendable daily soups (consider the popular corn chowder: $1.35 a cup, $2.10 a bowl).

This is basic, wholesome health-food fare. Big sandwiches, like Avocado-Cheese on dark bread ($4.25), humous with pita ($2.75) and an excellent lemon-tahini salad dressing.

It almost comes as a surprise that they serve beer and wine.

From 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Friday. Weekend brunch: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. 522-9060.

------------- LIGHT ON CASH -------------

Not every lunch has an ulterior motive; often the urge is purely interior - as in fill it up. Cheap. Seattle is blessed with hundreds of spots geared for gastronomic utility. Here's a select sampling:

-- Bakeman's Restaurant, 122 Cherry St. This busy walk-down spot, a few steps from Pioneer Square, draws a huge midday gathering. They average 600 meals for lunch. Not a week - a day. When Yanita Wang, the bar manager, heard Bakeman's was considered for inclusion here, she exclaimed: "Not again! Aren't we busy enough?"

They are, but the cafeteria lines move swiftly. You'll get back to work on time - stuffed. Bakeman's (named for the family that opened it a half-century ago) is now run by the Wang family. They bake 10 big (25- to 30-pound) turkeys a day, along with 50 pounds of hamburger for meatloafs.

Prices are incredibly low: $2.30 to $3 for massive sandwiches, all assembled from homemade breads. The daily lunch specials are usually under $5, like $4.25 for Chicken Piccata, with two full breasts per serving, over pasta, with a salad included.

Four soups, plus chili daily. They change, but the rich turkey noodle is always available.

Open for lunch 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday. 622-3375.

-- Shamiana, 10724 N.E. 68th St., Kirkland. I normally wouldn't consider Shamiana, a somewhat elegant Indian-Pakistani-Bangladeshi restaurant, to be a bargain-basement eatery. But they do offer a low-cost luncheon buffet for $6.95.

As a friend who loves the place remarked: "That's the full meal deal of the Eastside."

The brother and sister team of Eric Larson and Tracy DeVaan have been serving their stylized versions of foods from South Asia for two years now. (They grew up in Asia, with parents in the diplomatic service.)

The buffet changes daily, but expect a lamb, chicken and vegetarian choice, plus more. All dishes are very fresh-tasting (no steam-table fatigue), well-seasoned and not oily, although some tend to be quite rich.

Items like Lamb Korma, Major Grey Chicken Curry, naan, green salads, dal, rice and Raita, all included. Not only an exceptional bargain, but an uncommonly fine restaurant, as well.

From 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Monday through Friday. 827-4902.

-- Maple Leaf Grill, 8909 Roosevelt Way N.E. It's usually jammed, but this neighborhood place offers some tantalizing alternatives to the routine of mass-produced burgers and toss-'em-out salads.

You might want to content yourself with the house special Tapenade ($2.95 "and all the bread you can eat"). But a better-rounded choice would be one of the daily sandwich specials; all $5.95 at lunch. Try the Fresh-roasted Turkey with homemade chutney, fresh mozzarella with tapenade and tomatoes, or the Artichoke Heart sandwich with roasted garlic and pine nuts.

Two kinds of breads are used: Grand Central Bakery's sliced baguettes for dipping into salads, and Ciro's La Panzanella (big rounds sliced from 5-pound loaves) for robust, chewy sandwiches.

From 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday (a "light" lunch menu available until 4 p.m.).

-- Dick's Drive Ins (five locations) original store at 111 N.E. 45th St. Others: Broadway, North Ballard, Queen Anne and Lake City.

You cannot mention a budget lunch in Seattle without considering Dick's. At least, I can't. I've addicted to the Dick's Special ($1.10) as a midday snack for two years. And I consider myself lucky. Dick's has been around since 1954.

Others may crank out monster burgers for $5 and up, but you can still get a Dick's Deluxe (two 8-ounce patties, cheese, lettuce and "secret sauce") for $1.60.

The "secret sauce" looks like a blend of mayo and relish, and it mixes well with shredded lettuce to give both crunch and tang.

"Essentially, it is a relish-mayo blend," chuckled assistant G.M. Ken Frazier, "but internally, we call it goop."

They still hand-dip all ice cream (Vitarich) for shakes.

The chain was started with the Northeast 45th Street place by three partners - Dick Spady, Warren Ghormley and B.O.A. Thomas - almost 40 years ago next January.

Open daily from 10:30 a.m. to 2 a.m., seven days a week.

-- Yak's Deli, 3424 Fremont Ave. N.

"Cheap fuel. Yak's is like a gas station for the gut," said a colleague, "a teriyaki joint that's quick, economical and reliable. Also, it's a place where fast food still tastes like food."

Despite the modest prices ($3.99 for the daily special, including a can of pop), the fried rice, stir-fried meats and vegetables and assorted teriyaki specials are really quite good.

Avoid the fortune cookies - our last two were stale - and the fortunes less inspired than the cooking.

A second Yak's (Deli II) is at 3401 Fourth Ave. S. (343-9505); the third, Yak's Deli No. 3, at 2515 N.E. 55th St. (526-2762).

Fremont store: from 10:30 a.m. to 9:15 p.m. Monday through Saturday. 632-0560.

-- Jack's Fish Spot, 1514 Pike Place. It's small, it's funky, and crowding in at the counter can be a bit uncomfortable, but it's convenient to the commerce and bustle of the market. More to the point, it's good and it's cheap.

Owner Jack Mathers (brother of Gretchen's, of course) started in 1981, and serves up great little cups of cioppino for a meager $2.05. You can get a meal-sized bowl for $3.35 or take home a quart for $6.05.

Fish and chips are $3.49, but you may want to upgrade - as some employees do - and choose the halibut and chips instead, $4.69.

Whole cracked crabs are dispensed for $5.99, depending upon availability and season, and you can pick and munch at the counter. Crabs and shellfish are all scooped up live from sea-water tanks on the premises. Jack's doesn't serve beverages of any kind; go across the way to the Three Girls Bakery for something to wash it all down.

From 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Monday through Saturday; 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday. 467-0514.

-- Still Life in Fremont, 709 N. 35th St. "The beating heart of funky Fremont," a friend said. She was right. Totally informal, order off the blackboard, grab your own chairs, silverware and water. Then get in line and prepare to order swiftly, cafeteria-style.

The menu changes daily, but you have to try one of the homemade soups. They are affordable, change on a daily basis and tend to be highly creative. Like "Autumn Puree of Vegetables" or or an outrageous "Carrot, Cashew and Curry." Prices are $2.50 for a small bowl; $3.95 for a major investment.

Great baked goods. The salad of the day is mandatory - for example a recent smoked salmon, potato, vegetables, or tabouli with feta and imported olives.

The Still Life is typically packed with those for whom the '60s and '70s never really left - and never will.

From 7:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday; until 11 p.m. Thursday through Saturday. Reservations for large groups only: 547-9850.

-- The Deluxe Bar & Grill, 625 Broadway E. It's been around for almost a third of a century, the quintessential Capitol Hill hangout. If the food wasn't grand (and it is), I'd still go there for the bar conversation.

Joe Rogel and Bernie Minsk opened it in 1963. Joe and his son Barry run it now.

Fine burgers (beef, chicken breast or veggie), a heavy run on elaborate baked potatoes ($4.95), like the B.C.T. (broccoli, cheddar and tomato) and reduced prices on burgers ($3.99) Wednesdays. Soup and salad combos, like a B.L.T. and Gazpacho go for a little as $4.75.

An occasional glitch on more trendy items like Raspberry Chicken Salad ($6.30), which recently was too tart. But at $6.30 you probably couldn't afford it anyway. Full service bar with a ton of microbrews.

From 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. 324-9697.

-- Ezell's, 501 23rd Ave. and 4216 University Way N.E. If you are going to break a diet wide open, these are the places to do it. Ezell's started across the street from Garfield High School, attracted a following that extended far beyond the student body, and was eventually flying their lunches in volume with the Seattle Seahawks road trips.

Oprah Winfrey was so struck with the crunch and quality of their deep-fried chicken (which she discovered on a Seattle visit) that she once had some delivered to Chicago for her birthday party.

It's remarkable stuff: large, tender sections of chicken packed up with homemade rolls and lots of napkins.

A typical order would be two pieces of chicken and a roll ($3.18 for dark meat, $3.53 for the breast). Good potato salad; terrific sweet-potato pie.

10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; until 11 p.m. Friday, Saturday. 324-4141 or 548-1455 (U District).

-- TestaRossa Cart, Fifth Avenue at Pine Street. This is the little cart that could - but almost didn't. Andrea Wenet, the red-headed owner of the TestaRossa (redhead in Italian) at 210 Broadway E., argued with the city for 18 months for permission to established her stuffed-pizza cart downtown.

She won them over this summer.

Five different Chicago-style thick pizzas (6 inches wide by an inch and a half deep) are offered daily ($3.75 to $4.25). Try either the Pesto with Pine Nuts, the Garlic-Mushroom-Onion, the Roasted Red Pepper and Mushroom or, my favorite, the Sausage-Red Pepper-Montrachet.

A highly competent Caesar salad sells for $3.50, a "Ciro" roll included.

Expect to see this become a rolling chain. Soon.

From 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily.

(Copyright 1993, John Hinterberger. All rights reserved.) John Hinterberger's food columns and restaurant reviews appear Sundays in Pacific and Fridays in Tempo. Harley Soltes is a Seattle Times photographer.