Federal Way Eatery Entices With Mexican Flair And Food

Puerto Vallarta, 2323 S.W. 336th St., (in Twin Lakes Shopping Center), Federal Way, 952-4381. Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover Card. Personal checks. Hours: 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. weekdays, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and 3 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday. Take out. Smoking and nonsmoking areas. Full bar. -------------------------------------------------------------------

In Mexico, the fishing village of Puerto Vallarta enchants tourists with sun-drenched beaches and all-night fiestas. In Federal Way, Puerto Vallarta the restaurant entices customers with really good Mexican food.

To reach the resort city of Puerto Vallarta, tourists must negotiate customs and journey south to the state of Jalisco.

To spot the restaurant, diners must navigate the busy parking lot of Twin Lakes Shopping Center and spy the eatery between the Pay Less Drug Store and Radio Shack.

"Welcome amigos," the hostess, Angelica Martinez, says in greeting.

Pinatas dangle from the ceiling. Spanish tiles and hand-painted plates adorn the walls. A mural of a Mexican cowboy roping a steer looms as large as life. Neon beer signs flicker at passing shoppers.

"Very nice people come here," said manager Pepe Vega. "The food is good and the place is nice."

A 3-year-old venture, Puerto Vallarta in Federal Way "does better every month," Vega said, "We'll be here for a long time."

The menu tantalizes with a wide selection of enchiladas,

combination plates, fajitas, burritos, tostadas and mariscos (seafood). Fruit-flavored daiquiris, pina coladas and margaritas douse the flames from the hot salsa and fresh chips.

The cooks won my endorsement with the chicken enchilada ranchera with rice and beans. It sizzled and wasn't greasy. At $6.25, the price also left a good taste. They stuffed the $8.25 crab enchilada with ample portions of real crab. A $1.60 taco on the side arrived with the hot stuff steaming and cool fresh tomatoes and crisp lettuce.

"Everything was seasoned just right and the presentation was excellent," my companion remarked.

The seating arrangements separate smokers from nonsmokers. A back-room bar stocks Coronas and Cuervos. The tavern also sports a big-screen television and dart boards.

Named after Ignacio Vallarta, a governor of Jalisco, Puerto Vallarta the city parties nonstop. It is also famous for Mismaloya Beach, where Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton starred in the film "The Night of the Iguana."

Puerto Vallarta, the Mexican food restaurant, will be known for spreading authentic Mexican cuisine throughout the Puget Sound. Puerto Vallarta restaurants also can be sampled in Tacoma, West Seattle, Spokane, Gig Harbor and Puyallup.

Owners Clemente and Anita Andrade of Puyallup originally hail from Guadalajara, Mexico. They labored in farm fields and factories in California before learning the restaurant trade. In 1978, a relative in Seattle helped them finance the Mazatlan restaurant in Puyallup. Two years later, they opened the first Puerto Vallarta.

"We picked that name because people from here like to go to Puerto Vallarta," Anita Andrade said.

Restaurant reviews are a regular Thursday feature of the South County Life section. Reviewers visit restaurants unannounced and pay in full for all their meals. When they interview members of the restaurant management and staff, they do so only after the meals and services have been appraised.