Exploring Palm Springs' Wild Canyons On A Jeep Tour

PALM SPRINGS - Long before golf and glitz transformed this piece of southern California into a playground, the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians lived in canyons above what is now Palm Springs.

The Agua Caliente Indians still live here, although no longer in the canyons. But they have opened their ancestral homeland - called Indian Canyons - to tourists on jeep tours through an exclusive arrangement with the Desert Adventures tour company.

Desert Adventures was founded by a former Seattle resident, Mary Thomas Dungans, who was working as a marketing executive for the Ritz-Carlton Hotel.

Earlier this year, my wife, my two small children, and my wife's parents went on a trip into Andreas Canyon within the 32,000-acre Agua Caliente reservation just south of Palm Springs.

Not knowing what to expect, the adults were a little worried about whether the kids would be entertained and the kids were worried about being bored.

As soon as we met our driver and guide, Jim Viglioni, we knew we were in for a good time. A naturalist, guitar player and 26-year desert resident, Jim has been nicknamed "Sings with Strings" by Desert Adventures.

Jim led us to the open-air Jeep, which came equipped with padded bench seats that faced each other. He began telling us stories about the Cahuilla Indians, earthquakes, creatures that lived in the canyons and strange and wonderful things to eat that grew wild. Somehow, the stories worked a magic on both adults and kids.

Up in the canyon, Jim took us to a spot where huge rocks had been thrust up from the ground. Here, said Jim, the Indians lived.

He pointed to various plants and explained how the leaves, roots or seeds were ground up as a main course, to cure headaches or make dyes for clothing. He explained how currents of air created by the rock formation warmed the natives at night and cooled them during the day.

Farther up, we stopped the Jeep and hiked briefly over some rocks until we came to a dense cluster of palm trees and Andreas Creek, which was gorged with recent winter rains.

Founded in 1988, Desert Adventures has given Jeep trips to some 20,000 people. Three types of Jeep tours are offered: a trip through the Santa Rosa Mountains to see the Big Horn Sheep Preserve; a trip through the desert canyons; and a trip to the San Andreas Fault.

Prices vary by length of trip and whether meals or entertainment are provided. Each Jeep holds 7 people.

The minimum is a two-hour Jeep trip that costs $49 a person. A 3 1/2-hour trip is $89 a person. There is no individual rate for the 8-hour trip; the whole Jeep is $900. For more information phone Desert Adventures: 1-619-324-3378.