Rome around the clock: UW students offer tips

This past winter, several University of Washington students took a travel-writing class as part of their curriculum at the university's Rome Center at the Campo dei Fiori square. One of their assignments was to find themselves things to do in a 24-hour span in the Eternal City and briefly write about them. Here are excerpts from their reporting.

By seven in the morning, it's obvious why the market at Campo dei Fiori is one where both locals and tourists gather to prowl and shop. Get there early enough to watch vendors put together the flower arrangements, assemble fruit-and-vegetable stands, and lay out all manner of merchandise, forming a wall-to-wall market. (It's a smaller sight in August, Rome's vacation time.)

The market is closed and gone by early afternoon, replaced, in the evening, by wall-to-wall people — most of them young (including lots of foreign students during the school year), nearly all of them hanging around outside at what seems like a square-full of outdoor bars.

In the wee hours, when those bars have closed and the young crowd is gone (and assuming you're up that late), you can watch an army of workers and their equipment spray and clean the Campo in time for the next day's market.

— Nicole Griffin

Across the Tiber River, just a few streets from the Campo, lies Trastevere and another market opportunity. The Trastevere Market, across the Garibaldi Bridge, mixes energy, color, white tents and lots of stands. It's a neighborhood shopping spot where the prices are good, the food is fresh and the variety is grand, changing season to season (as do all the city's markets). Pick up olive focaccia to snack on while wandering.

— Lindsey Egelston

Trastevere's Sunday flea market is enormous and as eclectic as Rome. Located between the Porta Portese Bridge and Trastevere Station are hundreds of vendors selling everything from fur coats and boots to toothpaste, vegetable graters and old automobile parts. Get there early, by 8 a.m., for the best deals and be prepared to bargain. Keep an eye out for pickpockets, often drawn by the large crowds. This Sunday-only event is quintessentially Roman, and the experience, for travelers, is unforgettable.

— Jaime Garrand

For some morning peace amid the Vespa roar, there's Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, home of the neighborhood's biggest and best church — and perhaps most precious piazza. The Santa Maria church is a classic yet extravagant beauty to be entered and adored (open 7:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily). The piazza also tempts with another Italian glory: food. One can find Blue Ice, a top-notch gelato shop, and Caffé di Marzio, a quiet bar with outdoor seating and the most perfect cappuccino, topped with heart-shaped foam. And, since you've just been to church, it's OK to have both of these sinfully good treats.

— Erin Launius

Off the bustling Corso Vittorio Emanuele street, near Castel Sant'Angelo, tucked beneath a secluded overhang, is a replica of an ancient fresco of the Madonna. The original, since moved to a church, is said to have shed tears of blood and moved its eyes after children broke its glass encasement; it was removed for safekeeping. The replica can be found hidden behind pots of wilting floral arrangements, a sign that there are still those in this modern city who hold faith in Rome's ancient mysticism.

— Katrina Graves

Tucked in an unassuming square between Piazza Navona and the Pantheon is the church of San Luigi dei Francesi (the national church of France in Rome since 1589). After sunset, the room dims and only a few areas are lit by focused yellow lights. Situated in a niche near the apse is Caravaggio's masterful "St. Matthew Cycle." The astounding use of light and dark tricks us into believing that we are a part of the scene. Find yourself craning your neck to see what the characters are looking at, feeling the penetrating warmth from the angel and squinting to see what's beyond the shadows.

— Roya Zahed

More than 2,000 years old, the Pantheon that many people see is the one filled with school children and tour groups. To avoid the crowds, visit the church during the evening. The large groups are replaced by couples and families, gazing up at the sunset-lit sky through the oculus in the ceiling. After the doors close, take a seat on the steps of the fountain in the middle of the piazza and watch Italians and tourists alike make their way to dinner or a concert.

— Ellen Kwon

The Spanish Steps at the Piazza di Spagna offer more than just a lower-body workout in climbing all 138 steps to the top. At sunset, the steps, nearly always jammed with tourists, offer a beautiful view of the city, not to mention a prime location for people-watching. Not to miss: the Barcaccia fountain at the base of the staircase and the Trinità dei Monti church above.

— Zena Leonard

While many flock to the Spanish Steps for the perfect sunset, the ideal location may be merely minutes away on foot. At the top of the steps, travel northwest until you reach Pincio park. Grab a spot on one of the benches overlooking Piazza del Popolo or find your own, private viewing spot. It feels as if you might practically fall into the dome of St. Peter's.

— Lauren Johnson

For those who enjoy a night stroll and a good story, the Dark Heart of Rome tour (www.thedarkheartofrome.com) combines both in a 90-minute stroll with an excellent raconteur who discusses many of Rome's haunted hot spots. While meandering through shadowy back alleyways, you'll hear about long-forgotten architecture often missed on daytime tours — and their ghosts!

— Regina Atendido

When in Rome, what do you do late at night when the bars have closed and the monuments are empty? Remember where you came from at two in the morning — it's 5 p.m. in the U.S.! Have a chat back home for cheap. With Skype, an Internet download, talk via the Internet (you'll need a headset and mike) for free. Just choose a username, get your friends set up and begin. Static and a slow Internet connection can be issues, but it's worth it just to hear a friendly voice from home on those lonely Roman nights.

— Krystin Tate