Modest vintner finally gets his name on the door

Mike Januik's winemaking credentials reach back to the mid-1980s, when he began his career with (now-defunct) Stewart Vineyards. Januik worked only the 1984-1986 vintages before moving on to Snoqualmie and later Chateau Ste. Michelle. But he made an indelible impression.

Some years ago, I asked winery owner Martha Stewart (not that Martha Stewart!) about Januik as a young winemaker. "Having Mike for a winemaker," she replied, "was sort of like asking an inexperienced painter to paint the ceiling of your rec room, and then learning that his name is Michelangelo."

Januik himself would be embarrassed at such praise, for he is among the most modest and unassuming winemakers I have ever known. But his talent, unmistakable from the very beginning, has finally brought him the ultimate reward: a gorgeous new winery with his name on the front door.

Actually, the name on the front door reads Novelty Hill — Januik, for the new winery is home to both brands. Januik makes all the wines, including 4,000 cases of Januik whites and reds, and another 5,100 cases of Novelty Hill. The ultra-modern facility, which presents a rather stolid concrete face to the highway, is quite impressive on the inside.

Januik has a full quota of shiny new winemaker toys (a dry fog machine, computer-monitored fermentation tanks, an Italian bottling line), two large barrel rooms, a sleek and open tasting room, a full kitchen (with chef Charles Walpole in charge) and four private rooms for special dinners and events. In one of them is a grand tasting table, fashioned from reclaimed old-growth timber, that is 24 feet long. The landscaped grounds back onto a creek and border the Columbia winery on the north.

His years making wine for Chateau Ste. Michelle gave Januik the opportunity to explore many of Washington's emerging wine regions, such as Horse Heaven Hills and the Wahluke Slope, while accessing grapes from top vineyards such as Cold Creek. Since starting the Januik winery in 1999, he has continued to use fruit from Cold Creek in his cabernets and chardonnays, and has added other top-tier vineyard sources such as Champoux, Klipsun, Ciel du Cheval and Seven Hills.

Novelty Hill's own estate vineyard, Stillwater Creek, which was planted in 2000, has quickly become a favorite among many of Washington's rising star winemakers. I assume that Januik gets his pick of the best fruit, because his Novelty Hill Stillwater Creek vineyard-designated wines are stunningly good.

I could wax euphoric about all of the latest releases from Novelty Hill, which offer impeccable balance, a profusion of carefully sculpted fruits, herbs and spices, and exceptionally fine-tuned oak aging. Suffice it to say that the 2005 Chardonnay ($20), Sémillon ($16) and Sauvignon Blanc ($18) are as good as it gets; and the Stillwater Creek reds — a dark, spicy 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon ($28), a seamless, smoky 2004 Syrah ($28), and a firm, cherry-laden 2004 Merlot ($25) — are their equals.

From Januik Winery there are more excellent new releases. The 2005 Januik Cold Creek Vineyard Chardonnay ($30) is less oaky, more forward and fruity than in the past. The two single-vineyard cabernets — Champoux and Ciel du Cheval — are still quite young and tight, but the less-expensive Januik Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($30) is a marvel of complexity that opens up nicely with a little breathing time. All of these wines can benefit from decanting.

Novelty Hill — Januik, 14710 Woodinville-Redmond Road N.E., is open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Special events require advance reservations. Of particular interest is a 7 p.m. July 10 appearance by Julia Flynn Siler, author of the just-released "The House of Mondavi: The Rise and Fall of an American Wine Dynasty." The cost is $25 per person and includes a wine and cheese tasting. Books will be sold separately. For reservations, call Sarah Klapstein at 425-481-5502.

Meanwhile, on the other side of the state ...

I have frequently admired the marketing brilliance of Charles Smith, the man behind "K" Syrah, House Wine and such one-of-a-kind, over-the-top bottlings as "The Creator" and "The Hustler." But with his latest — Kungfu Girl — he has really outdone himself. The eye-catching label — a comic-book rendering of a young woman in a martial-arts pose — introduces the first release from his latest venture, a 2006 Washington state riesling.

Smith has been a busy man this past year. His Magnificent Wine Co.'s "House Wine" brand became such a huge success that he was able to sell a big chunk of the company to the owners of Precept Brands, who will market and expand it. With funds from the sale, Smith purchased 66 acres of land, near Walla Walla's Morrison Lane vineyard, and plans to plant Rhone varietals next spring. This spring his K Vintners winery, which made no single-vineyard syrahs in 2004, is back with a full slate of 2005 syrahs which are, without a doubt, the best he's ever made.

He also formed the Charles Smith Wine Co., to test new ideas such as Kungfu Girl, and it's a home run. Sealed with a screwcap, supremely aromatic, dry-tasting but actually off-dry at 1.66 percent residual sugar, Kungfu Girl is certain to start turning up at Thai and sushi restaurants all over town.

After a two-year wait, expectations for the 2005 syrahs have been quite high. It was, and is, a marvelous vintage, especially in Walla Walla and especially for syrah. The lineup from K Vintners will not disappoint.

K Vintners 2005 'The Boy' ($40) — mostly grenache from Christophe Baron's Armada vineyard — is unique, packed with flavor and spice and assertive, earthy flavors.

K Vintners 2005 'The Beautiful' Syrah ($50) is only the second vintage that this special selection from Cougar Hills fruit has produced. Co-fermented with viognier, it uses native yeast, is foot-crushed and then slowly re-fermented in barrel. Its flavors run through the entire length and breadth of the palate, a fascinating mix of herb, leaf, earth and tight berry fruit.

Single vineyard 2005 K Syrahs from Phil Lane ($70), Wells ($50) and Cougar Hills ($45) are pricey but competitive with the very best that this state — indeed this country — has to offer. As usual, the more-affordable 2005 K Vintners Milbrandt Vineyard Syrah ($25) will be the people's choice, and deservedly so. Fruit-forward, spicy and appealing, it is consistent with previous vintages, but offers the extra dollop of rich blackberry fruit.

Finding the wines

Unless noted, all Wine Adviser recommendations are currently available, though vintages may sometimes differ. All wine shops and most groceries have a wine specialist on staff. Show them this column, and if they do not have the wine in stock, they can order it for you from the local distributor.

Paul Gregutt's column appears weekly in the Wine section. He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.