"Rocky Mountain oyster" king Bruce Ruth dies

Bruce Ruth, whose northern Colorado saloon became a magnet for motorcyclists and other curious travelers willing to sample "Rocky Mountain oysters," has died. He was 73.

Mr. Ruth died Aug. 23 at his home in Severance, Colo., after a stroke, longtime employee Dennis Guffy said.

Rocky Mountain oysters, the sliced-up, breaded and deep-fried strips of meat served with dipping sauce, have nothing to do with saltwater mollusks. Not for the squeamish, they're the testicles of male calves, castrated to enhance their beef development.

The fare has been a popular menu item for decades at Bruce's Bar in Severance.

"He's the one who really got the town of Severance on the map because of the Rocky Mountain oysters," Guffy said.

Inspired by a friend who served "turkey oysters" at a party, Mr. Ruth started offering his variation as an appetizer in the late 1950s.

Mr. Ruth, a native of nearby Evans, Colo., served on the Severance town council. With hunting buddies from the Ducks Unlimited organization, Mr. Ruth also helped restore wetlands that attracted migratory Canada geese.

In a few weeks there will be a dedication to Mr. Ruth at an annual motorcycle rally that for 25 years has drawn thousands of bikers to Severance, as the motto goes, "Where the geese fly and the bulls cry."