Filling pub grub for night owls

We, the nonsmokers of Washington state, whereas having won the ballot measure to ban smoking in public places, and whereas the new law opens many new horizons in dining, now therefore be it resolved to take it as our responsibility that those previously smoky establishments get a fair share of our business, and hereby proclaim that we all may thrive together in the new smoke-free environment.

OK, this is Dining Deals, not Schoolhouse Rock, but our sentiment is genuine.

The day that smoking in bars went out the window, the restaurant scene around Seattle got a lot more interesting — particularly for those of us who had tried futilely to find decent meals out after, say, 9:30 p.m., when supposedly proper kitchens tend to call it a night.

Bars serve food late, which is one of several reasons we love them. One bar that does a particularly fine job of mixing grub with spirits is the venerable Pacific Inn Pub, in Fremont, which serves food until 1 a.m.

As one who poked his nose into the place before, but fled in the opposite direction because of the fumes, I can now say that all the good things I had heard about the food — especially about its signature fish and chips — are true.

I've eaten at Pacific Inn several times since the smoking ban, and left stuffed and satisfied each time.

Before Robert Julien (the singing bartender at the former Jake O'Shaughnessy's in lower Queen Anne) purchased Pacific Inn about 15 years ago, it was a blue-collar tavern with Rainier on tap. These days, it features several microbrews and a specialty-cocktail menu.

But don't think Pacific Inn has gone soft. You want a glass of water while eating on the 10-table outdoor patio? Get it yourself, pal, from that blue plastic water cooler in the corner. Condiments are served in a beer six-pack container. The cheeseburger comes with a packet of Heinz mayo under the bun.

The food menu splits 36 items into five categories — seafood (including a grilled salmon fillet), salads (a salmon Caesar), burgers (a grilled lemon-pepper chicken breast is popular), sandwiches (from pulled barbecue pork to a BLT) and sides.

Everything is less than $8.

Manager Val Robart says Pacific Inn's business has remained steady since the smoking ban went into place in January, thanks to a mix of regulars and some new faces. Not all bar-restaurants are as fortunate, however, and that's where our personal responsibility comes in.

Visit Pacific Inn, or your neighborhood equivalent. Inhale, exhale, eat late and enjoy.

Check please:

Seafood combo platter: A large piece of fish, breaded in-house with panko, a dozen or so Cajun-spiced shrimp, three breaded oysters, tons of crispy french fries and a cup of coleslaw. The fish fillet is a real catch; the recipe a holdover from the previous owner. The shrimp is best for those enticed by spice.

Cheeseburger: One-third pound of beef, cooked just right, with cheddar spilling out the sides (provolone, Swiss or blue also available). Comes with fries. "Good thing I wore my expandable pants," my happy friend said.

Black bean and cheese taquitos: One of several side orders that can double as an appetizer or snack, they are sprinkled with the same Cajun spice as the shrimp. Good thing this place serves beer — and water from a cooler.

Itemized bill, meal for two

Seafood combo platter $7.25

Cheeseburger $6.50

Black bean and cheese taquitos $4.99

Vodka drink $3.75

Microbrew $3.75

Tax $1.74

Total $27.98

Stuart Eskenazi: 206-464-2293 or seskenazi@seattletimes.com