Highlights of booming Woodinville

Look out Walla Walla, here comes Woodinville!

If you take a moment to blink in either of the state's wine-tourism magnets, a new winery pops up nearby. Woodinville now has more than 30, with many more in the works. The sold-out Passport To Woodinville open house last weekend brought thousands of wine tourists to town. I suspect that they, like me, were amazed to discover how many brand new, tiny boutiques are sprinkled among the area's nondescript warehouses.

Where Betz Family winery set up shop a few years ago there are now three tiny startups, and three more just around the corner. Another cluster of eight boutiques is sited a few blocks north. And not all the growth is small in scale. Januik and Novelty Hill, who have been sharing winemakers and cellar space for some years, are breaking ground on a spectacular new, ultra-modern winery and tasting-room complex just north of Columbia winery. It's supposed to open in time for next December's holiday barrel tastings.

Visiting new wineries brings with it a kind of giddy joy; you find that you are a part of someone's dream, just as it is coming true. So don't wait another year for Passport to come around before you set out to explore on your own. Though some of the smaller wineries are not often open to the public, many do keep weekend tasting-room hours, and others might be willing to make an appointment if you phone ahead.

There are so many exciting wines pouring out of Woodinville cellars these days that I easily pulled together a case for this week's column. These are not inexpensive, but I have looked for the most interesting and best values among the offerings currently listed. Here is a mixed case of highlights:

Baer Winery (425-483-7060). From a surefire rising star, Baer's newest release, the 2003 Ursa ($29), is a delicious blend of merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and a dash of malbec. Beyond the black-cherry and blackberry fruit are layers of tobacco and light smoke. Though quantities for this Ursa are up significantly in 2003, its pricier companion wine (Arctos) is extremely limited. Get on the mailing list if you want it.

Betz Family Winery (425-861-9823). Newly housed in an immaculate and carefully designed facility just up the road from DeLille Cellars, Betz Family continues its unbroken string of beautifully rendered — let's just say it — sensational wines. New this year is a very limited grenache. The best deal remains, as before, the Clos de Betz. The 2003 has just been released ($32). It's intensely fragrant, seamless, toasty and lush, as it wraps layers of caramel, butterscotch and creamy oak around yummy plum and black-cherry fruit.

Brian Carter Cellars (425-895-9284). A new venture from one of this state's veteran winemakers, Brian Carter Cellars is set to be one of four wineries opening in the Woodinville Wine Village next spring. Right now the winery is headquartered in Bellevue, and the first wines have just been released. Four are red blends (two Bordeaux, one southern Rhone, one Tuscan). The one white is the 2004 Oriana ($24), a roussanne/riesling/viognier blend. Stylishly clever, it nicely captures the best of all three grapes: citrusy viognier; floral riesling; and rich, ripe, peachy roussanne.

Cuillin Hills Winery (no phone) and DesVoigne Cellars (425-415-8466). Owned by brothers Derek and Darren DesVoigne, these two wineries share a small warehouse space where they keep Scot-rock blasting on the iPod (the Cuillin Hills are on the island of Skye) and trade quips as well as corks. "Never go into business with a relative," advises Darren, with a wink at his brother. Their first two releases, both 2004 sangioveses, are strikingly different: the Cuillin Hills ($23) tight and chocolatey, with flavors of malted milk and cherry liqueur; the DesVoigne ($25) concentrated and succulent, bursting with essence of raspberry and cassis.

DeLille (425-489-0544). DeLille is not a winery to rest on its laurels. The winery's Chaleur Estate Red and White are industry icons; the D2 an exemplary second-tier red (in the tradition of a Carruades de Lafite). A new vineyard, Grand Ciel, is causing a buzz already for its much-anticipated red wine. But somewhat lost amid all the excitement is DeLille's Harrison Hill Red, from one of this state's oldest cabernet plantings. The 2003 Harrison Hill ($68) shows you why old vines are so treasured; it's a paradigm of finesse and silky grace. Cherry, brambleberry, plummy fruit and exotic spices light up the flavors through a long, delicious finish.

Januik Winery (425-481-5502). Soft-spoken and shy, Mike Januik is not a swashbuckling figure in the world of wine. But his wines more than compensate. Lush and confident, they combine power and grace. His vineyard sources range across the best in the state, from Cold Creek chardonnay to Champoux cabernet and Lewis syrah. How to pick just one? Let's go with the 2003 syrah ($30) — a saturated, sappy and brilliantly detailed wine that combines the audacious power of perfectly ripened fruit with the zest of fresh-squeezed citrus and defining notes of pepper, tar and graphite.

JM Cellars (206-321-0052). JM has been a fan favorite right from the start. Its big reds, especially the signature "Tre Fanciulli," are loaded with full-on fruit, buttery oak and impressive tannins. I have especially admired their sauvignon blancs, made from an exceptional site on Red Mountain. Among the lineup of reds, their Columbia Valley Cuvée, which is a bit easier to find than the Tre and a little lighter in style, is a good place to start. The 2003 ($28) is a fine example — tart, fruit-driven and spiced up with pretty chocolate.

Matthews Cellars (425-487-9810). Matt Loso is not only making incredible wines at his own facility, he is mentoring, advising and inspiring a small legion of newer, artisanal wineries in his wake. Mark Ryan, Page, Stevens, Barons V and more to come are all following in his footsteps. I have never had a Matthews Cellars wine that was not riveting. His 2003 Hedges Vineyard Syrah was one of the finest syrahs I've ever tasted from Washington; a preview of the 2004 (due out in May) suggests that it might be even better. If you do not know these wines, it is definitely time to get moving! A good start is the Matthews 2004 Klipsun Sauvignon Blanc ($18) — yeasty, bone dry and richly textured.

Novelty Hill Winerey (425-481-8317). Under the guidance of the winemaking team of Mike Januik and Scott Moeller, Novelty Hill puts out an extensive range of blended and single vineyard wines. They are especially notable for their superb sauvignon blancs and a range of sturdy, well-crafted reds. Let's toss another sauv blanc into the basket: The 2004 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc ($25) is a crisp, authoritative wine mixing melon and mineral, lime and pineapple.

Red Sky (425-481-9864). Red Sky's Jim and Carol Parsons began making wine professionally back in the 2000 vintage, but they like to give them an extra year or two of bottle age before release. Very small amounts of varietal red wines and a red Bordeaux blend are made; an excellent reserve is in barrel. A new winery and tasting room recently opened in the space formerly occupied by Mark Ryan. The standout among the current releases is the 2003 Cabernet Franc ($20). It's elegant and complex, with compact blue and red fruits, lightly accented with sweet spice.

Stevens Winery (425-424-9463). Another Matt Loso protégée, Tim Stevens worked at Matthews Cellars and Sheridan Vineyard before setting off down the garagiste trail. Newly ensconced in a tidy warehouse space, Stevens has just released an outstanding lineup of red wines from the 2002 and 2003 vintages. Starkly beautiful black-and-white labels (from his original artworks) set off wines that are trim, sharp, long and beautifully defined. The 2003 "424" red blend ($30) is a great place to begin exploring this rising-star property, with its sleek and subtle tangle of mixed fruits and sharp spices.

Paul Gregutt is the author of "Northwest Wines." His column appears weekly in the Wine section.

He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.