Roast chicken made golden

Chez L'Ami Louis, a small restaurant in the Marais section of Paris, prepares what's been considered by many to be the best roast chicken in the world. Diners are served a simple, unadorned bird with crackling skin and juicy meat, and they're willing to pay plenty for it. L'Ami Louis' humble roast chicken for two will set one back about $85.

That's a lot of bucks for such a plain bird. After all, there's no rich foie gras stuffing or flaming brandy sauce to set it apart.

In this rendition, the chicken clearly comes first. France's flavorful, corn-fed Bresse chicken is the key, a bird so regal and genetically pure that it's protected by its own Appellation d'Origine Controlée, which is governed by precise rules for breeding and presentation.

There's a lesson to be learned from the French. When we begin with the best ingredients, something special can happen.

The poultry from Bresse may not be accessible to us, but we do have access to poultry cases full of chickens that have been raised following varying formulas and offer shoppers differing flavors, textures and tenderness.

Except for kosher chicken, which has already been soaked in a brine, all poultry will benefit from brining, which makes a big difference in both flavor and moisture content. Dr. Alan Sams, professor of poultry science at Texas A&M University, has studied the effects of salting poultry before roasting. "Salt dissolves protein in muscle, and the salt and protein reduce moisture loss during cooking," he said. "This makes the meat juicier and more tender, and improves the flavor."

The perfect roast chicken, like that served at L'Ami Louis, will have a crispy skin and moist, flavorful meat. Here's how to get similar results in the home kitchen without breaking the budget.

• Before roasting, remove excess pockets of fat from under the chicken skin and around the cavities.

• For even cooking and crisp skin, a roasting rack is crucial for lifting the poultry off the bottom of the pan so there's lots of air circulation around it.

• Fill the chicken cavity with herbs, pieces of citrus fruit or other ingredients that are compatible with the seasonings in the recipe.

• For moist breast meat, some publications suggest turning the chicken up to four times during roasting. But we found that just one turn still made a difference in the quality of the meat. Cook the chicken breast-side down for 30 to 40 minutes, then turn breast-side up and finish roasting another 40 minutes or until done.

• An instant-read or digital thermometer is the most accurate instrument for taking the internal temperature of roast chicken. Place the point of the thermometer in the thickest part of the chicken between the leg and thigh; it should read 180 degrees. Make sure the gauge is not resting on bone.

• It's a myth that basting repeatedly will keep poultry meat moist: In fact the basting liquid never penetrates the skin. For crisper skin, baste once half-way through the roasting time.

• Instead of basting, use dry seasoning rubs on the outside of the skin and butters or pestos under the skin to infuse the meat with flavor and moisture.

• Let the roasted chicken rest 10 minutes before carving so that juices have time to redistribute throughout the meat.

Sources: U.S. Department of Agriculture; "The Cook's Illustrated Complete Book of Poultry"; "The Kitchen Detective" by Christopher Kimball