Q & A: Neighborhood bistros
Hungry for a cozy neighborhood spot? Read about some of Nancy's favorite bistros in Pacific Northwest magazine's special Dining Out issue.
Ever thought about reviewing the food and service at Cafe Impromptu at McCaw Hall? Patrons to the opera and ballet might like some insight on what to expect. For example, is there enough time at intermission to actually stand in line, eat and/or drink before the bells gong? — Grace, Seattle
N. L.: It's an idea worth considering, what with the fall arts season now in full swing. I've been hearing some royal kvetching about the new Wolfgang Puck cafe at Benaroya Hall, with several folks writing to complain that they sorely miss Gretchen's. To that I say: go across the street to the Musicquarium at the Triple Door and grab a nosh before or after! It's Wild Ginger-fied food, downstairs from the always-too-busy Ginger.
Hi Nancy - Ever heard of or been to a little Mexican place in south Renton down (about a block from IKEA) by the name of Taco del Rey? The pollo asado is "esplendido." Actually everything I've had is fresh and very well prepared. — Chris Reyes, Renton
N. L.: Yes, several astute readers have voiced their opinions that I should get down there ASAP, singing the praises of owner Martin Reyes and his menudo, posole, tongue tacos and carne asada, among his other Mexican favorites. My problem is I'm not a big fan of Mexican food and when I'm in Renton, shopping at IKEA, usually, I can't bring myself to go anywhere other than Imperial Garden (in the Great Wall Mall) for dim sum. But hey! I see your name on this post, señor Chris Reyes, and in the event that you are a family member tooting your own restaurant's horn, well: you're in good company. My readers love the place, too.
Have you attended any of the cooks and books events? And if so, what was your impression of them cause they are extremely pricey? — Kate, Ravenna
N. L.: I haven't been, but if it were someone I love, whose cookbook I admire (Judy Rogers, from Zuni Cafe comes to mind), I'd go in a flash.
Any upcoming reviews of the new restaurant "Hi-Life" in the historic Ballard FireHouse? — Tony, Seattle
N. L.: Cut 'em a break! They've only been open three weeks. Those Chow Foods guys really know how to run a restaurant show. And yes, you can stay tuned for a review.
I feel like I fell into a restaurant black hole when I moved to Lake City a few months ago? Any good (and cheap) options in the neighborhood? — Hungry in Lake City, Lake City
N. L.: You mean other than Dick's? Well, there's a reason why they're standing in line at Toyoda Sushi (which, by the way, has a huge menu with lots more than sushi). And, you may be unlikely to stop there, and it's not a restaurant per se, but Pacific Market, the little Persian deli, has some great "exotic" foodstuffs to eat in or take out. Try the badamjan.
The big name seafood places around here can set you back a pretty penny. Any suggestions for good fish that won't require a second mortgage on the house? — Tim H., Kent
N. L.: Matt's in the Market, Ray's Cafe, Coho Cafe, and any really good Chinese restaurant (where else can you get a whole crab or lobster, cooked to perfection, for bupkes?).
Do you have any other favorite bistros that didn't make it into the Dining Out issue for one reason or another? — Elena, Edmonds
N. L.: There are many that coulda-woulda-shoulda been in there, space and time permitting. A few that come quickly to mind: Crave, on Capitol Hill, 35th Street Bistro (the former Still Life in Fremont); Wild Mountain Cafe (Greenwood/Crown Hill area); Kingfish Cafe, Monsoon and Vios, all on East Capitol Hill and, as mentioned in an earlier post, Sandpoint Grill and Barbacoa.
Just in case any of you like the idea of checking out a new bistro on its first day of business, XO Bistro, the new very French bistro in the old Cassis space on Capitol Hill, is opening tonight. The new owners are Eric Francy and Axel Mace (the guys who own Maximilien, in Pike Place Market) and news of their Big Night describes an opportunity to taste the season's first beaujolais nouveau, plus charcuteries and fresh cheeses, steamed mussels in cocotte (with fries, bien sur), cassoulet and creme brulee. Me: I'll give 'em a couple of months. But I'll be curious to hear from anyone willing to send me a first-hand first-day report.
I'm looking for the best sandwich in town. What do you got? — Jeremy Day, Seattle
N. L.: For me, it's always the barbecue beef at Pecos Pit BBQ, spiked with a hot link. What have YOU got?
The grilled panini or baguette at Madison Market or anything from Great Harvest on Market in Ballard. The thick-slice fresh made bread really adds a lot. — Jeremy, Seattle
N. L.: I'll check it out!
When will Renton get more upscale dining (besides Melrose)? Can you recommend other options? — Matt Van Bogart, Renton
N. L.: You tell me! Renton's a tough call. But they're doing their best to draw crowds at Jubilante. The new owners brought in an honest-to-goodness French chef, whose food, during my recent visit, was more than up to snuff (his duck was great). And with the live jazz they feature throughout the week (Darren Motamedy plays there one night a week, I believe), you should check the place out if you haven't already.
Are there any good ethnic restaurants in the North End? It feels like everything is a chain restaurant, found in a strip mall up here! — Kim Burnett, Everett
N. L.: By North End, I'm assuming you mean north of Seattle proper? (It's that Everett address of yours that's given you away.) Actually, the ethnic-food scene is getting better all the time, thanks, in my opinion, to an enormous influx of new Asian restaurants.
It doesn't get much better than T&T Seafood Restaurant in the 99 Ranch Market in Edmonds, my favorite Chinese restaurant in Greater Seattle. Than Brothers recently opened another pho place, also in Edmonds. Then there's Taka Sushi (in Lynnwood, just south of Petsmart): very small, hard to find but worth it.
I've recently reviewed Mi Rak, in Lynnwood, where you can get great Korean table-top barbecue. Mi Rak is an enormous value. Yamashiro Sushi Bistro, just south of the county line on Highway 99 is wonderful. Ignore its stripmall setting: this place rocks, particularly in the bar at late-night happy hour when it's become a hangout. And have you been to Oysy in Everett? I think I have that name right. I've been hearing from folks up your way who really like it. Ditto for El Paraiso Mexican Grill, on Colby Avenue.
Can you recommend any good bistros in the West Seattle area? — Elizabeth C., Seattle
N. L.: Ovio Bistro is a tiny little charmer, soon to move to bigger digs in the Admiral Junction. There's Cafe Zaffarano and La Rustica (great Italian food), and Circa, a grill and alehouse. JaK's Grill (for steaks) is a lot of fun.
I recently moved to Wedgwood (in Seattle), and while there are a number of great places to get your basic burger & bar food, I have yet to find a good place for the next step up — that place to go periodically that won't break the bank but will make the taste buds sing. Any suggestions? — Bill, Seattle
N. L.: Wedgwood, while not exactly a wasteland, could use a few better restaurants. Black Pearl is always an option: it's a great Chinese spot. And most of your older neighbors would direct you to the Wedgwood Broiler (a trip back in time, for sure, and more of a diner-destination than a dining destination). I'd head further afield to Ravenna, to check out Pair, and now that the cold weather's upon us, Bella Rosa Bistro (Italian food, plus North African specialties) is another swell idea. If you can get over the decor — there's a beauty salon on one side and a restaurant on the other — the certified organic Sterling Cafe serves some lovely food.
Have you ever thought about critiquing box lunch delivery places? ;-) — Kristi Brown-Wokoma, That Brown Girl Catering, Seattle
N. L.: Not a bad idea, Kristi. One I bit into, so to speak, in a dual review of Baguette Box and Boat Street Kitchen. The latter does a big beautiful business in box lunches and also serves them via their Eastlake storefront cafe: hence the review. Why don't you (and anyone else out there offering box-lunches) send me a menu, just for grins.
When I read the article on neighborhood places, I had assumed it meant real neighborhood places, not the high priced/pretentious ones that ended up in there. I just wish reviewers in this town (if there really are more than a couple, given the fact that each paper has the same places within 2 weeks of each issue) would go for the places that support and belong to the neighborhood, such as Old Town Alehouse, People's Pub and Bad Alberts in Ballard, Aladdin and Flowers in the U-District, Latona Pub in Wallingford and others. — BallardMan, Seattle
N. L.: Hey! Take that (potato) chip off your shoulder. And take another look at what I was writing about: neighborhood bistros. Had I been writing about neighborhood pubs north of downtown — places to get good cheap eats and great beers — I'd guarantee that most of your favorites would have been contenders for my list (I'm way overdue for a trip to the Latona, one of my old longtime hangs).
Do yourself a favor, Ballard boy: next time you need to impress a friend (or yourself!) with something more than a terrific bowl of soup, a solid fistful of sandwich or a groovy hummus plate, why not check-out some of the "pretentious" places on my list. Many of them are far less "high-priced" (and a lot more friendly) than you'd think. Some, like Marjorie, have killer happy hour prices on eats and drinks that are sure to impress with deals like a $25 three-course dinner. Others (Dandelion, Crow and Eva come to mind) offer gorgeous full-blown entrees costing as little as $14. In addition, you might consider some great bistro-options not mentioned in my article but worthy of a guy with your estimable taste in pubs, say Sandpoint Grill, near U-Village or Barbacoa on Upper Queen Anne.
Nancy, we're new to the Bellevue area. Can you recommend a few good sunday brunch restaurants on the Eastside? Thanks. — Daniel Tu, Bellevue
Nancy Leson: Hmmm. A Sunday afternoon drinking mimosas and enjoying a leisurely brunch. Calgon! Take me away! Sounds like a good idea to me. Among your brunchable options: the Barking Frog (at Willows Lodge in Woodinville); Fins Bistro (next to the Village Theatre in downtown Issaquah) and, in Kirkland, Lynn's Bistro (have the chicken crepes if they're available) and Waters Lakeside Bistro (in the Woodmark Hotel at Carillon Point).