Maximilien owners to open Capitol Hill joint

There's exciting news for those who've been crying into their cassoulet since the closure of Cassis Bistro. Cassis, shuttered in June, will soon get a second life as XO Bistro. And who better to raise the (zinc) bar here on Capitol Hill than Eric Francy and Axel Macé, owners of Pike Place Market's Maximilien?

Though the Frenchmen will share responsibility for both restaurants, Macé is expected to remain a constant presence at Maximilien (81 A Pike St., Seattle; 206-682-7270), while Francy, his aptly named business-partner, will run the kitchen — and the show — at XO Bistro (2359 10th Ave. E., Seattle).

"We hope to be open by Thanksgiving," says Francy, who claims his new restaurant's name holds no special significance. No hugs and kisses? No fancy cognac? Non.

"What we want to do here," he said, "is offer a nice, casual, neighborhood restaurant. One that serves good, plain-old traditional French food." Though his menu is not yet set (XO will be open for dinner only) and staff is still being hired, the chef says he hopes his bistro will draw "people who come more than once a week and make the place their home. Hopefully, we'll have the right recipe for that."

Bistro on the go-go

Two years ago, pregnant with child and ambition, Ellie Chin and her husband, Shing, opened Ovio Bistro Eclectica in West Seattle. Labor pains have long since given way to growing pains, and plans are afoot to move the popular 50-seat cafe to larger digs early next year and, shortly thereafter, open a second restaurant at the original site (3247 California Ave. S.W.).

"This place has been great for us and we love it," Ellie says. "But on a busy night we move 150 people through here. We need more space!"

They've found it a mile south at the busy Alaska Junction, leasing the former Guppy's West Seattle Bar & Grill (4752 California Ave. S.W., Seattle), which closed last weekend. Guppy's will be transformed into the new Ovio, doubling that bistro's present seating capacity, allowing room for a full bar and lounge, and offering an expanded kitchen for chef Eddie Montoya. If construction and permitting go accordingly, the original Ovio will serve its last meal on New Year's Eve, reopening at the Junction within a couple of weeks.

After a swift cosmetic makeover, the original Ovio is expected to morph into an as-yet-unnamed restaurant. ETA: Valentine's Day. Montoya's longtime sous-chef Tony LaVelle is set to take over the kitchen and we can expect "something a step down from Ovio in price and portions, a place that's more casual and everyday," Ellie says. Till then, you may enjoy dinner at the original from 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays. For reservations, call 206-935-1774.

Go west, young Matador!

Nate Opper and Zak Melang, owners of Ballard's hot new bar and restaurant, the Matador (2221 N.W. Market St., Seattle; 206-297-2855) also have their sights set on West Seattle's Alaska Junction. Plans are in the works for the pair to take over an existing clothing store and turn it into a West Seattle nightspot.

Construction, scheduled to begin after the first of the year, won't be complete till spring, but when it finally opens, the 135-seat Toreador (4546 California Ave. S.W., Seattle) should bear a striking resemblance to its Ballard sibling. West Seattleites can expect a barbecue-heavy Tex-Mex menu, a well-stocked tequila and margarita bar, a central fire pit, flat-screen TVs, plus happy hour and late-night fare.

Stan's the Man

Talk about hot links! The folks at Stan's Bar-B-Q (58 Front St.; 425-392-4551), Issaquah's newest nosh 'n' sloshery, are offering more than just Kansas City beef brisket and a pitcher of beer, "choked and smoked chicken" and football mania (Stan's got Sunday NFL Ticket for your viewing pleasure). Stan's has a WiFi setup, so bring your laptop along with your appetite and they'll set you up with complimentary Internet access to go along with your hot smoked pork link. (But remember to wash your paws before touching your keyboard.)

Owner Stan Phillips, late of Kansas City, Mo. has been hanging with the backyard smoker since he was knee-high to a Budweiser, and here in the heart of old Issaquah he's smoking ribs, links, turkey, chicken, beef brisket and more, rubbing his meats with love and serving his sauce on the side.

He'll fix you up with a pulled pork sandwich ($6.95, including a side), talk turkey by the half-pound ($7.25, including side) or the whole bird ($2/pound for a 10-pound gobbler with three-day's notice). He and his crew will ladle you up a bowl of red ($2.50/cup, $3.95 bowl) and ask "Who's your daddy?"

If you tell him "You are!" he'll fix you right up with a combo: baby back ribs, beef brisket, pulled pork, two links and a couple of sides ($19.95). Stan's is open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays and from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Sundays.

Eat it and read it

Page Ahead, a nonprofit children's literacy program, provides new books and literacy services for at-risk children and their families, serving neighborhood schools and educational programs throughout Washington. Tomorrow, several dozen area restaurants are participating in Book Plates: Dishing Up Literacy — donating a portion of their receipts to Page Ahead. Dine tomorrow at the following restaurants (see www.pageahead.org for a complete list of participants) and your dining dollars will help benefit children who may not own a single book:

Seattle: Café Campagne (lunch), Circa Neighborhood Grill (dinner), Columbia City Ale House (dinner), Emmett Watson's Oyster Bar (lunch), FX McRory's (lunch), Johnny Rockets (University Village 5-8 p.m.), La Medusa (dinner), Mae's Phinney Ridge Cafe (breakfast/lunch), 74th Street Ale House (dinner), Six Arms (dinner), Soprano's Pizza & Pasta (dinner), Ten Mercer (dinner), Tulio Ristorante (lunch), Tutta Bella Neapolitan Pizzeria (lunch/dinner)

Eastside: Ricenroll (noon-5 p.m.), Bellevue; Bamiyan Afghan Cuisine (dinner) and Tantalus Greek Bistro (lunch/dinner), Issaquah; DC's Grill (dinner), Sammamish.

Nancy Leson: 206-464-8838 or taste@seattletimes.com. More columns at www.seattletimes.com/columnists.