Sweet On Macrina: A bakery lover's bane and blessing come all in one bite
Now, a grueling 1½-hour drive into the city keeps my cravings in check. And I can fit back into my jeans. Some say the move was a bit extreme, I should try a little self-discipline. True, but my strategy worked. Until lately.
Surely you've heard that little saying: "Stressed is desserts spelled backward." Well, imagine the angst that seized me when I discovered Macrina had published its own cookbook.
If Pandora's box were a book, it would be the "Macrina Bakery and Cafe Cookbook" (Sasquatch, $29.95). Leslie Mackie, who launched the bakery-cafe and authored the book, unleashes the contents of the Macrina pastry case and then some.
The pies, cakes, gâteaux, galettes, scones, tarts and tartlets — Mackie spares us nothing. The bakery-cafe's fabulous arsenal of artisanal breads, soups and exceptional savory dishes are here, too: the Olivetta Loaf, the Chicken Tagine with Lemon and Olives, Sweet Potato Gnocchi with Sage Cream and Romano Cheese. All of them sound tempting.
But let's get real. Nobody buys Playboy for the insightful articles, and I'm not pretending to browse this cookbook for the salad recipes. How could you when confronted with Lemon Lavender Scones or Almond Cake with Mascarpone Cream and Fresh Blackberries?
As I look more closely, I think it will take more than a cup of chamomile tea to calm the palpitations I feel when faced with so many tantalizing choices.
The recipes vying for my attention make me feel like a swing-voter in election season. But I know it's wise to be wary of distractions and stick to what's important. So when pushed to make a choice, I say, "It's the chocolate brownies, stupid!"
With so many highbrow options, this might seem a lowly pick. But the brownies represent what Macrina built its reputation and loyal following on.
It's all in the recipes, says Mackie. "When they are simple, they are successful, and that inspires people to bake more. That's the mission."
Mackie, an Oregon native, says pastries were her favorite as an apprentice. She went on to work as a pastry chef in established Boston restaurants, but her career took a pivotal turn after working a summer on Nantucket Island in Massachusetts.
"I was introduced to more homey, great American and rustic European pastries, and found my great love."
At her desk, surrounded by glossy photos of artisan-baked breads, Mackie pulls out the predecessor to her cookbook: a red plastic binder. This unassuming binder, its shine dulled by flour, contains the evolution of many of Mackie's best recipes. Showing off a yellowing 1989 newspaper clipping from The Oregonian, Mackie retraces the origins of her Maple Pecan Pumpkin Pie. "I tweaked it a bit," she says. My guess is, she's being humble.
The cookbook is a chronicle of Mackie's passion and years of recipe collecting. She adds that co-author Andrew Cleary, who worked at the bakery-cafe for nine years, helped bring all the elements of the book together.
Mackie's prowess as a pastry chef has made Macrina a local legend. This year, her reputation moved up a considerable notch nationally. The James Beard Foundation nominated Mackie as one of five chefs nationwide for the Outstanding Pastry Chef award.
From this collection of temptation, I asked Mackie which were her personal favorites. She lists the Monkey Bread and the Classic Blueberry Pie.
Her 5-year-old daughter, Olivia, has taken to baking, too, and is partial to Christmas cookies. Flipping through the cookbook to see if she overlooked any picks, Mackie laughs, "I'm so pleased to have one book to work from."
It must be a relief to have such a treasure in one place. But as for me, I fear it spells another untamed passion — this time, with a book.
Jacqueline Koch is a writer and photographer living on Whidbey Island.
Bittersweet Chocolate Brownies
Makes 9 brownies
- 5 ounces unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped
- 12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
- 1½ cups granulated sugar
- 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
- 6 eggs
- Powdered sugar
1. Combine the chocolate and butter in a medium stainless-steel bowl. Place the bowl on top of a saucepan filled with 2 inches of simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water. If the water is too hot, it will scorch the chocolate. Stir the chocolate and butter with a rubber spatula until they are melted and have reached a smooth consistency. Remove the bowl from the heat and let cool to room temperature.
2. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Oil a 9-inch square pan.
3. Place the sugar and flour in a bowl and mix for 30 seconds on low speed. Increase the speed to medium and add the eggs, one at a time, making sure each egg is fully incorporated before adding another. Scrape down the sides of the bowl frequently.
4. With the mixer on low speed, drizzle in the cooled, melted chocolate. Scrape the bowl with a rubber spatula to make sure you get all the chocolate. Increase the speed to medium and mix for about 1 minute, or until the batter is mousse-like in texture.
5. Pour the batter into the prepared baking pan and spread it evenly with a rubber spatula. Bake on the center rack of the oven for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the center is just set. Cool on a wire rack.
6. After the brownies have completely cooled, dust them with powdered sugar. Cut into 3-by-5-inch bars, cleaning the knife between cuts. While best eaten the same day they're baked, the brownies can be stored at room temperature for up to one day.