Ethiopian-style honey mead boasts no sulfites
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Questions about sulfites in wine keep coming in. In a recent Q&A, I wrote that "I know of no wines that are completely, 100 percent sulfite-free," because even when wines are made with no sulfites added, the natural fermentation of grapes creates a small percentage of sulfites.
Winemaker Gail Puryear responded with a fascinating e-mail, in which he pointed out that his Bonair Winery makes an Ethiopian-style mead called Axum Tej for the Saba Tej Co. in Rutherford, N.J. It is completely sulfite-free.
"The reason it is sulfite-free," Puryear explains, "is because it is made from honey, not grapes. Honey, unlike grapes, does not contain natural sulfur for the yeast to metabolize into sulfites."
The Axum Tej is tested periodically by a certified laboratory in order to support the "contains no sulfites" labeling. There is also a phone number to call for information: 888-772-2283.
Though I have tasted other honey meads, this product is unique in my experience. Fragrant and complex, it sends up aromas of honey and spice, and has a hoppy crispness to the finish, despite its sweetness (5 percent residual sugar). It has been flavored with Gesho, also known as Ethiopian hops, which helps to act as a preservative.
Axum Tej is available from the winery, and the price is $12.99.
Bonair also makes other styles of mead with sulfites added, so if you are specifically seeking the no-sulfite wine, be sure to ask for Axum Tej. I find its flavors quite interesting, but for the less adventurous, it's worth repeating the winemaker's caveat: "Mind you, Ethiopian-style mead is an acquired taste!"
Paul Gregutt answers questions weekly in the Wine section. He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.