Exploring the exotic origins of cocoa powder

The nondescript tin of cocoa powder sitting on a grocery shelf may have begun its journey here from a tropical plantation in Venezuela or Brazil, or perhaps Trinidad. Slender trees bear fruit that grows directly out of the gray-green trunks, in a down-the-rabbit-hole landscape that could have been imagined by the creative fancy of Lewis Carroll.

"An evergreen without a distinct harvest season, the cacao tree puts forth flowers continuously," writes Maricel Presilla in "The New Taste of Chocolate: A Cultural & Natural History of Cacao with Recipes." "So at any one moment, you see Lilliputian flowers next to Gulliver-sized fruits, from the tiny gherkin-shaped baby fruits to toddler specimens like small eggplants and adolescent-sized specimens as big as half-grown spaghetti squashes — all in a range of colors that at first seems random."

A cocoa fruit has a hard shell that is split open with a machete, revealing compartments packed with sacs. In each sac is a single seed, or bean, surrounded by red, pink or white pulp.

Once the beans have been harvested, fermented and dried, they are classified according to size, brokered and sold to chocolate manufacturers. Much like coffee beans, the region of origin — its soil and climate — will influence the flavor of cocoa beans, so the manufacturer may blend different beans to create a defining taste. After the beans are roasted, making them brittle, they are crushed to winnow the hulls, or shells, from the broken fragments of beans, or nibs. The nibs are crushed and ground to a thick, grainy mass called liquor, made up of cocoa butter and solids. About 75 to 85 percent of the butter is removed, and the remaining solids are pulverized into powder.

In "Bittersweet: Recipes and Tales from a Life in Chocolate" author Alice Medrich shares her knowledge of this process. "Cocoa is essentially a concentrated form of cocoa bean," she says. "Because cocoa beans are naturally tart and acidic (characteristics that provide fruitiness and complexity in chocolate), those qualities are exaggerated in cocoa powder."

The two types of unsweetened cocoa powder, natural (nonalkalized) and Dutch-process (alkalized), differ both in taste and color. Dutched cocoa is treated with an alkali that reduces acidity and darkens the color. Natural cocoa powder will have nothing added; its ingredient label should simply read "cocoa" or "unsweetened cocoa powder." The color of both the powder and the baked goods made from it will be lighter.

There are also differences in flavor and color between premium and less-expensive brands.

We tried an experiment with two natural cocoa powders: Hershey's regular ($3.69 for 8 ounces) and Scharffen Berger ($9 for 6 ounces), and you can try this easy taste-test at home. Place a teaspoon of each in separate cups with 1/8 teaspoon sugar, then stir ¼ cup warm milk into each cup, and taste. Close your eyes and concentrate.

To my taste, the initial chocolate flavor in Hershey's was strong but slightly harsh, then it faded quickly.

The first sip of the Scharffen Berger cocoa was smoother, the chocolate flavor milder. But not only did it linger, the flavor actually swelled and became more earthy and intense with a hint of bitterness at the finish.

Medrich recommends using premium Dutch-process cocoas that have a higher fat content, such as Valrhona, Pernigotti, Droste or Guittard Jersey, which are moderately rather than heavily alkalized.

The charcoal-black, slightly bitter cocoa used in Oreos is an example of extreme Dutching. Its use may explain why knockoffs made with a different type of cocoa powder don't have the same appeal. In fact, our definition of "chocolately" may be influenced by the dark color and distinctive flavor of the alkali used in the Dutching process.

For instance, we tested a cocoa fudge sauce first using the natural Scharffen Berger, then with Droste's, a Dutch process powder. Although testers liked the Scharffen Berger sauce, many felt it "didn't have the flavor pop" they were accustomed to. The sauce made with Droste's tested higher, with a more intense chocolate flavor. But here's the rub: When Nancy Leson, The Seattle Times restaurant critic, dipped a finger into the bowl of Scharffen Berger, "there are flavors other than chocolate that appeal to me."

So your choice may just come down to taste preferences. When baking, though, if a particular type of cocoa powder is called for, don't substitute one for another. Generally, the more acidic natural powders react with baking soda, while baking powder is better suited to Dutch process cocoa. However, if a recipe specifies "unsweetened cocoa powder," either type can be used.

As with most dry ingredients in baking, an accurate measure will be key to success.

"Cocoa powder is very potent, so sloppy measuring can make a bigger difference that you might think," explains Medrich. "Before you measure, stir the cocoa and press out any lumps with the back of a spoon, then spoon the cocoa loosely into the measure, heap it, and sweep it level. Do not pack or tap the cup or spoon to settle the cocoa."

Store cocoa in an airtight container away from aromatic spices and herbs. Its flavor will begin to fade after a year.

Natural unsweetened cocoa powders found in supermarkets include Hershey's classic dark brown label (the European-style Dutch process has a silver label) and Scharffen Berger, which is beginning to make some inroads into mainstream groceries. Droste is a good-quality Dutch process cocoa that has become a standard on baking aisles.

If you want to experiment with some of the premium cocoas, there are a few local sources and Web sites to check out. Go to chefshop.com or visit their Seattle retail store (305 Ninth Ave. N.), which stocks Scharffen Berger, Pernigotti and Valrhona, as well as an organic cocoa powder from Dagoba Organic Chocolate. The Williams-Sonoma stores also carry Pernigotti cocoa. A variety of cocoa powders are available online at www.kingarthurflour.com and www.rockridgemarkethall.com under The Pasta Shop link.