Recipe: Panade of Leeks and Mixed Greens with Cantal Cheese

8 servings

- 1-pound loaf of stale chewy bread with crust
- 3 large leeks (white and light green parts only)
- 1 red onion, peeled and chopped
- 8 to 10 cloves garlic, sliced, or 5 green garlic shoots
- ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
- Salt to taste
- 1½ pounds mixed leafy greens, deribbed and shredded to make about 10 cups (see note)
- Juice of ½ lemon
- Freshly ground black pepper to taste
- Grated nutmeg to taste
- 3 cups whole milk, heated to simmering
- ½ pound Cantal or Gruyère cheese

1. Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Cut bread into 1-inch cubes and measure about 1½ quarts. Spread in single layers on oiled baking sheets and bake 45 minutes, or until golden. Let cool and set aside until ready to use.

2. Split leeks lengthwise, rinse in cold running water to remove grit, and chop. Measure leeks, onion and garlic to be sure you have about 1 quart.

3. In a 7- to 8-quart pot, heat olive oil over medium heat. Slowly stew onion mixture 10 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon salt and cook 5 minutes.

4. Add greens to pot, cover and cook over low heat 45 minutes. Uncover and boil away excess liquid. Allow to cool. Add lemon juice, about ¼ teaspoon pepper and about ½ teaspoon grated nutmeg. Taste and correct seasonings. (Up to this point the recipe can be prepared 1 day in advance. Cool, cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before continuing.)

5. About 2 ½ hours before serving, oil a deep 3-quart casserole, preferably earthenware. Place one-third of the bread in the dish, top with half of greens and repeat, ending with a third layer of bread cubes. Pat lightly to make an even topping. Gradually pour hot milk down the insides and over the top of the panade so everything is moist. If necessary, add ½ cup water. Cover with grated cheese and a sheet of foil.

6. Bake in a preheated 250-degree oven for 1 ¾ hours. Raise oven temperature to 400 degrees, uncover and bake 20 more minutes. Remove from oven and let rest about 10 minutes before serving.

Note: The greens can be a mix of any of the following: sorrel, chard, parsley, arugula, spinach or watercress. The finished dish is much like a dense bread stuffing, and would be wonderful with roasts.

From "The Slow Mediterranean Kitchen: Recipes for the Passionate Cook" by Paula Wolfert .