Merlots top list of 'useful' vintages to drink now
As often as not, those vintages that the wine press declares to be great are not anything of the kind. Recent examples include the '97 Tuscan reds, the '97 zinfandels and to a lesser degree, the '98 Columbia Valley red wines. All of these were supposed to be superb; they turned out merely to be overripe and short-lived. Truly great vintages are balanced from the get-go and develop quite slowly and gracefully over decades.
Which brings me to the concept of the "useful" vintage. Many years ago, traveling in France, I noticed that many of the wine lists featured Bordeaux from vintages regarded as inferior here in America. Inquiries met with a standard reply: The supposedly great vintages are for a) cellaring or b) selling at an inflated price to the Americans; while the vintages you see on our list are "useful" wines for drinking now, with dinner, so please order and stop asking silly questions.
I've chewed on this idea for some years now, and it seems truer and truer. The 2000 vintage here in Washington is a perfect example of a useful vintage. I have repeatedly stood by the claim that 1999 produced some stunningly great red wines here in Washington, but those wines are some pretty tough customers, and will require many years of cellaring before the best of them mature.
While waiting for that to happen, along come the 2000s, virtually all of which show less muscle, power and depth than the very same wines from the very same wineries from the previous year. Having tasted through 150 or more wines from the 2000 vintage, I would characterize them as fairly soft, loose-knit and far less concentrated than the 1999s. Think red cherries and strawberries instead of black cherries and blackberries. Think softer tannins, more horizontal, broad flavors and less-dense tannins.
So I say, drink the 2000s now. They are here, they are very palate-friendly and accessible, and they are probably not going to reward long-term cellaring.
Merlots are generally made to be consumed earlier than cabernets, and they really are ready to go right now. Washington vintners have established the benchmark for flavorful merlots that exhibit structure and character, thanks to producers such as Columbia Crest, Canoe Ridge, Andrew Will, Leonetti, Woodward Canyon, Chateau Ste. Michelle, Northstar and individual successes from many of the smaller boutiques. These merlots stand out, year after year, as the best in the country.
Some producers have begun releasing their 2001 merlots, but the majority of those currently available are from 2000. Here are my recommended Washington merlots, in order of preference, from the exceptionally useful 2000 vintage.
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2000 Reserve Merlot ($37). A very classy wine, showing both red and blue fruits, zippy acids and smooth tannins, along with hints of black tea, smoke and spice.
Pepper Bridge 2000 Merlot ($45). Half Pepper Bridge vineyard and half Seven Hills, this is smoky and substantial, with light, leafy/herbal highlights.
Novelty Hill 2000 Merlot ($18). Open, complex flavors of red berries and currants are balanced against medium acids and modestly applied new oak. Not a bruiser, but elegant and satisfying.
Hightower 2000 Merlot ($28). A tight, muscular merlot that shows off firm, plump fruit, black olive/herbal highlights and smooth tannins.
Sandhill 2000 Merlot ($20). From Red Mountain grapes, this loose-knit wine displays flavors of cherry and raspberry against firm acids and a stiff, mineral finish.
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2000 Merlot ($16). A restrained, elegant wine, with soft and precise fruit flavors that emphasize berries and plums. There's a nice hint of cedar in the finish.
Columbia Crest 2000 Reserve Merlot ($30). Ripe, broad flavors coat the mouth with tart cherries and berries. The tannins, smooth and chocolatey, taste a bit like espresso.
Januik 2000 Merlot ($25). Mike Januik may be the least-known great winemaker in Washington. His understated, elegant and graceful merlot is proportioned to age, but delicious right now.
Reininger 2000 Merlot ($30). This is a friendly, fruity Walla Walla merlot, tasting of strawberries and raspberries, with pleasant, earthy scents of mushrooms and leather.
Snoqualmie 2000 Reserve Merlot ($23). Ripe fruit flavors of strawberry preserves lead into a balanced, full and accessible wine.
Patit Creek Cellars 2000 Merlot ($32). Good fruit, played off of toasty, expensive new oak. Jean Francois Pellet from Pepper Bridge is the consulting winemaker.
L'Ecole No. 41 2000 Merlot ($33). Mostly Seven Hills vineyard fruit, showing vivid berry components, with astringent, firm tannins.
Columbia Crest 2000 "Grand Estates" Merlot ($11). An enormously popular, ripe and sweet-tasting wine, CC shows off substantial flavors of plum and sour cherry fruit, and a meaty, spicy finish.
Columbia 2000 Merlot ($15). Columbia's regular merlot mixes tart, black cherry fruit with layers of mushroom and earth.
Canon de Sol 2000 Merlot ($24). Fresh, lush ripe red fruits are right up front, followed with flavors of graham cracker and vanilla wafer.
Wineglass Cellars 2000 Reserve Merlot ($35). A light, pretty, 100 percent merlot, showing cherry/rhubarb flavors, and a nice, tart, acidic edge.
Paul Gregutt is the author of "Northwest Wines." His column appears weekly in the Wine section. He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com