Fifth Avenue is flourishing beneath the tracks

One of the enduring bits of Seattle folklore is that the monorail ruined Fifth Avenue.

Those opposed to the new monorail are particularly prone to cite the condition of Fifth as a dire warning about the future of streets in the construction zone, such as Second Avenue.

Fifth Avenue is, in fact, increasingly lively, livable and getting more diverse and intriguing all the time. I suspect the past features and fortunes of the street have far less to do with the presence of the monorail than the fact that few people lived or worked there. After all, there are plenty of cities in the world — from Paris to Chicago — with lively streets lying beneath overhead tracks.

The recent decision by the city to demolish the present monorail columns and guideway and replace them with new, more slender and stylized ones — along with a station to serve Belltown — will accelerate the continued transformation of the street. And it will surely support the presence of more shops and services, as well as housing.

If you take a walk along the stretch of Fifth between Denny Way and Stewart Street, you will find a street that is emerging as a pretty fine urban corridor. These eight blocks are anchored at each end by two tiny, vastly underrated urban spaces.

The first is Tilikum Place at the north end. It contains a statue of Chief Seattle, arm upraised. With a circular fountain, ornate lighting and a few trees, the place feels like a small, simple but elegant urban square that might be found in a European town.

At the south end, a triangular island is marked by a statue of John Harte McGraw — a Washington state governor from 1893-97 who was instrumental in promoting the ship canal. This public space is overlooked by the ornate, Beaux Arts-era facade of Times Square Building, surely one of the most elegant "flatiron" structures anywhere in the country.

Eclectic mix of businesses

In between these two public spaces is a rich mixture of shops and services, cafes and restaurants, apartment buildings and office structures, three hotels, a health club, a pharmacy, a small grocery store, two art galleries, and theaters offering movies and live performances. You could spend a full day having a pretty good time and never leave the street: Get your hair cut in the morning, take a class in glass blowing in the afternoon, have a fine dinner, see a show, and linger over a late night cup of coffee. And the place is only getting better.

Later this fall, the industrious and multitalented Klebeck brothers plan to open a new Zeitgeist coffeehouse between Blanchard and Lenora streets. Mark and Mike designed and built the store, which will bring high-style architecture to the street — and Top Pot Doughnuts, a business that might just give Krispy Kreme a run for its money. (Look for the larger-than-life neon sign with the rodeo cowboy on top.)

Sprinkled along this end of the avenue are a number of stately, midrise masonry apartment buildings, built in the early part of the 20th century. The Sheridan is a fine example, with a canopy extending out to the sidewalk, much like many older apartment buildings in New York. Another building of this era is the Davenport, which, like its virtual twin the Devonshire (a block away) has broad steps leading up to an interior courtyard. The Windham and the Fifth Avenue Court are also gracious urban apartment buildings.

All have aged well with time and contribute a sense of solidity and sophistication to the street — not to mention relatively affordable housing choices.

The former Grosvenor House has a snazzy new paint job in its reincarnation as Wall Street Towers. I've always admired the civility of this high-rise structure. Along its Fifth Avenue side, the building is lined with a row of small storefronts, while its entrance on Wall presents a lush green forecourt to passers-by. This building could hold its own in mid-town Manhattan.

Some newer residential buildings have built along the street with mixed results. The Montreux, with a quirky Parisian roof top and the splendid, but oddly named but very pleasant Alligator Pear cafe on the sidewalk is certainly a positive addition.

On the other hand, the concrete block facade of Fountain Court presents an inexcusably harsh edge to an entire block.

Integrates well to neighborhood

One of the recent pleasant surprises is the addition of a large new office building developed by a joint venture of Touchstone, based locally, and Orix Financial, based in Chicago.

Located between Bell and Battery streets, this building demonstrates how to thoughtfully insert a totally different type of structure into an existing neighborhood. Rather than being one huge, multi-story mass, with an imposing bulk and dramatically different combination of materials, this building takes cues from its context.

Architects CollinsWoerman designed it with three distinct parts in order to break down its otherwise larger scale. Parts of the new structure are wrapped in brick to reflect nearby buildings. The small, canopy-covered storefronts now occupied by a deli and a couple of good, reasonably priced cafes are attractive.

While some of the street-level space is occupied by a corporation, the windows are covered by translucent scrims depicting historical scenes. Landscape architects Nakano Associates designed the sidewalk along Fifth to be somewhat whimsical, with undulating brickwork marking the location of street trees.

Even the light fixtures on the building — the work of Genette Beaudette Lighting — add an idiosyncratic but welcome touch that has been missing in many recent buildings in Belltown.

The home of the quirky, engaging theater, Teatro ZinZanni, enlivens life in these parts, too. (Although a new office building is planned for this block, the sluggish economy will likely ensure that this unique theatrical venue will not have to move again for a while.) It is wonderful to watch flamboyantly dressed patrons descend on the neighborhood.

Farther down the block, the gorgeously renovated Cinerama movie theater offers another form of entertainment. (OK, it's technically on Fourth Avenue, but the ticket office most used these days faces Fifth and the lines for popular films — as well as for the Seattle International Film Festival — snake along Fifth Avenue and add to the evening ambience.)

A world of dining options

Theatergoers can find a wide range of dining choices along Fifth — 10 at last count. Along the street, or within a stone's throw away can be found cuisine that includes French, Spanish, Japanese, Chinese, Continental, Thai, and Mexican, as well as diner-style comfort food. Several places offer sidewalk seating.

The Palace Kitchen throws open its big windows in good weather. And Nara offers a dining in a tree-top deck. For those wanting caffeine, there are a half-dozen choices. The Gee Whiz, with its winged sign, has been a mainstay for years, while the diminutive Belltown Bistro is so understated that its easy to miss on your first pass.

Next door to this combination cafe and art gallery featuring blown glass is a storefront that seems as sophisticated as an entrance to an upscale nightclub. But instead, it houses Zum, a health club.

Designer Rocky Rochon created this coolly understated exterior that conceals interior spaces and colors with a museum-like quality. A large room in the rear is outfitted with exercise equipment and flooded with light from overhead windows. The place is still a bit of a secret in the city — something that could be said for this entire string of blocks.

One of the truly fine aspects of the street is the row of mature street trees that line each side. Regardless the quality or character of the buildings that abut the sidewalks, these majestic trees create a continuity that feels both gracious and urbane.

Nope, Fifth Avenue has not been a victim of the monorail. It is alive and thriving.

Mark Hinshaw is director of urban design for LMN Architects. He can be reached at homes@seattletimes.com.