Relocated Szechuan eatery is spicing up Little Saigon

From Szechuan favorites to fancy-food fancies, readers are looking for answers to these restaurant-related questions.

Julia Rudden writes: "Just wondering if you know anything about what happened at Seven Stars Pepper Szechuan Restaurant. It's now called Szechuan Bistro (212 N. 85th St., Seattle; 206-781-1818). There was a sign on the door saying it's the same place, but when questioned, the waitstaff said, 'Not the same owners, same menu.' Any idea what the original owners are doing?"

Seven Stars Pepper, a small storefront just east of Greenwood's Fred Meyer, debuted in November 2001, impressing me (and apparently you, Julia) with such hot and spicy winners as chong gin hot chicken and cumin-scented sun keung lamb. A year later, the original owners, chef Cheng Biao Yang and his wife, Hoang Ngo, sold the place to an employee, waitress Phung Hoang, and took their restaurant name with them. The menu at Szechuan Bistro is essentially the same as it was before the name and ownership change, though the kitchen is now in the hands of chef Xia Keng — who worked for the original owners and has added such specialties as hand-shaven noodles to his menu. Szechuan Bistro offers take-out and neighborhood delivery and is open daily. Summer hours are 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.

As for Yang and Ngo, you'll find them at their new, relocated and greatly expanded Seven Stars Pepper, which opened last week on the second story of the Ding How Shopping Center in Little Saigon/International District. Here (at 1207 S. Jackson St., Suite 211, Seattle; 206-568-6446), chef Yang offers more than 100 dishes — one for each of the patrons the new restaurant can seat. Seven Stars Pepper is open from 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 10:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sundays.

Jerry Woo writes: "Where in the Greater Seattle area can one still find a restaurant that serves Chateaubriand the old-fashioned way, with all the trimmings?"

This recipe for an exceedingly tender cut of beef served the "old-fashioned way" — carved tableside, for two — is available at the Metropolitan Grill in Seattle's financial district (820 Second Ave, Seattle; 206-624-3287). Here, the 26-ounce USDA prime beef is mesquite-grilled and drizzled with Cliff sauce — a classic concoction made tableside with beef drippings, Worcestershire sauce, dry mustard, red wine vinegar and butter.

Trimmings include Parmesan tomato crowns, sautéed mushroom caps and a choice of baked potato, mashed potatoes or steak house fries ($91.95).

Chateaubriand is also available at The Met's downtown sibling, Union Square Grill (621 Union St., Seattle, 206-224-4321), where the 26-ounce steak is served with bordelaise and béarnaise sauces, broiled tomato gratin, seasonal vegetables and a choice of baked, garlic-mashed or au gratin potatoes ($91.95).

A big seller at El Gaucho (2505 First Ave., Seattle; 206-728-1337), the 24-ounce, dry-aged prime beef is prepared with Cliff sauce and trimmed with broiled tomatoes, grilled mushroom caps, fresh asparagus and a choice of baked or Southwest scalloped potatoes ($98).

Don Anderson writes: "I recall with gastronomic amazement my first experience having a dessert soufflé at Fullers over 10 years ago. Sadly, such delicacies are incredibly hard to find. Please tell me where I can go in Seattle to have such a wonderful experience again."

Soufflés, those high-flying sweet somethings, aren't as difficult to come by as you think, Don. You may indulge your sweet tooth at Maximilien (81A Pike St., Pike Place Market; 206-682-720), where the soufflé is flavored with Grand Marnier. Ditto for the soufflé offered at Canlis (2576 Aurora Ave. N., Seattle; 206-283-3313), where the menu mainstay is offered with crème anglaise (and available in the bar, complemented by live piano music). At the Georgian in the Four Seasons Olympic Hotel (411 University St., Seattle; 206-621-7889) huckleberries are making their appearance in a soufflé. At Crepe de Paris in Rainier Square (1333 Fifth Ave., Seattle; 206-623-4111), raspberries lend their seasonal appeal to this fine finisher, though chocolate soufflé is de rigueur year-round.

And if you're in Bellevue, you might consider stopping by Bis on Main (10213 Main St.; 425-455-2033) for a chocolate soufflé, or head to Tosoni's (14320 N.E. 20th St.; 425-644-1668CQ), where chef/owner Walter Walcher offers an Austrian take on the French classic. His Saltzburger Nockerl ($30, feeds four) is a giant soufflé topped with seasonal fruit (presently Rainier cherries and raspberries).

It's also worth noting that many restaurants, including Campagne (86 Pine St. Pike Place Market; 206-728-2800) and Il Terrazzo Carmine (411 First Ave S.; 206-467-7797), may not promote soufflés on their menus, but are willing to prepare them with advance notice. It never hurts to call ahead and ask.

Nancy Leson: 206-464-8838 or nleson@seattletimes.com.

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