Aussie wine label says 'unwooded,' so what does that mean?

Q: The term "unwooded" appears on some bottles of Australian wine. Can you describe what it refers to?

A: "Unwooded" is the rather awkward word coined in Australia (at least that is where it seems to have first appeared) to indicate a wine that has not been fermented or aged in oak barrels.

Sometimes "unoaked" is used to mean the same thing, almost always in reference to white wines, particularly chardonnays. The chardonnay grape, though grown all over the world, does not have a strong identity except in a very few favored regions, such as Burgundy.

It does have a wonderful affinity for oak. When fermented in oak barrels and left to age on the lees (the dead yeast cells), chardonnay becomes quite richly textured, acquiring a creaminess that gives added dimension and depth. When fermented in stainless steel or other neutral, anaerobic environments, the tartness and green apple flavors are emphasized.

Furthermore, when any chardonnay, however fermented, is aged in new oak barrels, it takes on flavors of toast and spice from the wood itself. So when a wine is labeled "unwooded" or "unoaked," the winemaker is telling you to expect fairly tart fruit flavors, with the emphasis on citrus and apple.

If the bottle says barrel fermented or oak-aged it will most likely show flavors of butter, toast and vanilla and a much softer flavor profile overall.

Paul Gregutt answers questions weekly in the Wine section. He can be reached at wine@seattletimes.com.