Phyllo without fear, with these handling tips

Even experienced cooks hesitate when they see a recipe that calls for phyllo (filo). If you don't use it often, it can be intimidating. If you have used it, you know it takes special handling.

Phyllo, which means "leaf" in Greek, is tissue-paper-thin sheets of dough made from flour, water and a bit of oil. Don't confuse it with puff pastry, which is a totally different product.

Phyllo can be found in the frozen dessert section of the grocery store and comes in a one-pound box with 20 to 28 sheets, depending on the brand.

Cooks brush the sheets with melted butter or oil and layer them. When baked, the layers puff up flaky, crisp, airy and golden brown.

Phyllo is traditionally used in Greek and Middle Eastern dishes such as baklava, spanakopita and a Greek custard dessert called yalaktobouriko. It's also used to make strudel, Napoleons and other pastries.

Phyllo can substitute for pie and pastry dough in a variety of pans and can be filled with fresh fruit, ice cream or other fillings.

Useful tools

Use a soft, not a hard-bristled, brush to spread butter or oil on phyllo.

A ruler is useful for measuring the phyllo before cutting.

Kitchen shears work well for trimming any excess phyllo or for cutting the dough to a specific size. Be careful when using a knife; if pulled, it can tear the phyllo.

Like most baked goods, phyllo must be baked on a flat surface, such as a cookie sheet. A sheet with only one raised side works well with strudel because you can slide the unbaked, rolled pastry from counter to cookie sheet. A jellyroll pan can be used for baking individual pastries. Parchment paper works well to line cookie sheets for phyllo, and large metal spatulas are good for lifting unbaked pastries.

Electric knives work well for slicing because they don't crush the phyllo, even when it isn't scored before baking.

Handling phyllo

Allow phyllo to thaw overnight in the refrigerator. Some directions then call for leaving it at room temperature for two hours after defrosting. Because the dough dries out so quickly, do not open the package until all the other ingredients are assembled and you are ready to work.

Fillings should be chilled and not excessively moist. If you have a wet filling, add some bread crumbs to the mix to soak up the liquid.

The faster you work, the easier working with phyllo will be. Carefully unroll sheets onto a smooth, dry surface. Immediately cover remaining dough completely with plastic wrap, then a damp towel. At this point, it helps to have one person uncover and lift out each sheet of phyllo while the other puts it in the pan and brushes it with butter or oil.

Even though melted butter is most commonly used to brush the layers of dough, you can also use margarine, oil or vegetable oil cooking spray. To prevent edges from cracking, brush them first and work toward the center.

For 16 sheets of phyllo, use about one-half cup (1 stick) of melted butter. This works out to approximately one-half tablespoon of butter per sheet.

Phyllo is generally baked on an ungreased cookie sheet in a preheated 350-degree oven until golden brown.

Cook's tips

There will be times when your phyllo does not cooperate. Dough leaves will rip and stick. Edges will dry out and crumble. If these happen, take a deep breath and try these tips.

Always buy the "freshest" frozen dough possible. If your grocer does not sell a lot of phyllo, you may be buying a package that has sat in a freezer case for many months. Similarly, replace any months-old packages in your own freezer.

Don't rush the thawing process: Phyllo is best thawed in its box in the refrigerator overnight. If your dough rips or tears, patch it with a little extra oil or butter. The dough is forgiving.

In a recipe where a smooth appearance is important — such as with a strudel or wrapped brie — you may want to cover the final piece in one perfect, and perfectly buttered, layer. There's no need to make the inside layers perfect.

Finish each piece with a good coating of butter or oil. This will prevent drying and ensure a golden crust.

Buy an extra package of dough. It's cheap insurance against mistakes and torn sheets.

Storage

If you have leftover phyllo, reroll it, wrap it in plastic and aluminum foil and refrigerate or refreeze. It can be refrigerated for up to four weeks. If you can't use it during that time, freeze it.