Cutters reaches back to the past for some heart and soul

It's back to the future for Cutters Bayhouse, whose 1998 face-lift, (Ooh that red! Oy that plaid!) just wasn't cutting it. When coupled with the menu's misguided attempt at jumping on the high-tech-fueled, high-end seafood-restaurant bandwagon, the fancy new Cutters failed to attract enough attention.

Well, what do you know? Just in time to woo summer tourists — and win back the locals — Cutters (2001 Western Ave., Seattle; 206-448-4884) plans to unveil its latest cosmetic makeover tonight along with a major menu revamp.

It takes guts (to say nothing of money) to undo a recent $750,000 "re-do." But that's exactly what's been quietly happening over the past month during Cutters' off-hours. Changes included the removal of the plaid carpeting from the main dining room and the installation of hardwood floors, as well as the replacement of foofy blown-glass lighting fixtures and the Max Factor color palette. Neutral tones now set the mood for the resurrection of a reasonably priced menu that harks back to the Cutters Bayhouse of yore.

That Cutters, opened in 1983, was a Pike Place Market-area draw known in its heyday for its singles scene, windows onto the Sound and a seafood-leaning, something-for-everyone menu. The menu — a Northwest-styled classic — was once considered cutting-edge with its inventive soups, salads, sandwiches, pastas and seafood dishes. Cutters' original recipes — including the much-ordered Maytag Blue cheese salad and the Broadway pea salad — helped make this the anchor eatery for Seattle-based Restaurants Unlimited (RUI).

"We did a good job of taking the heart and soul out of the place and are making an attempt to put the heart and soul back into it," says Don Adams, who oversees design and development for RUI (now boasting 31 restaurants nationwide including Seattle's popular Palomino and Palisade). To that end, he says, Cutters has brought back such casual "Market elements" as chalkboards advertising the day's seafood catch, and complimentary baked-on-the-premises focaccia. A new raw bar is viewed as "a big welcome mat" for local diners who once called this their hangout but have since shifted their loyalties elsewhere. Though closed for lunch today, Cutters welcomes diners tonight and daily, Sunday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. (with extended bar hours).

Cutters isn't the only restaurant going back to the future, as I found out recently while beachcombing during a minus tide. Among the starfish and sea anemone stood David Albert, ready to dish the dirt — or is that sift the sand? — on the latest happenings at the Maple Leaf Grill (8929 Roosevelt Way N.E., Seattle; 206-523-8449). Turns out the place was quietly bought last fall by restaurateur and music promoter Ed Beeson, who not only left Albert in charge as general manager but helped persuade chef "Rip" Ripley to come back where he belonged.

Rip and his trademark bandanna were last seen cooking at Cyclops in Belltown and before that dancing in the kitchen at the Century Ballroom. But old fans know him as the Main Man in the Maple Leaf's (then) minuscule kitchen. Back in 1990, Rip and Albert invested their smarts and sweat-equity in a real neighborhood joint, turning a failing sports bar into the beloved Maple Leaf Grill. During his six years at the Maple Leaf, Rip proved his passion for pub grub, influencing the menu with such seafood specialties as Rockers Iko and Mars Oyster Stew and grilling (among other things) a mean burger.

Twelve years later, ensconced in a larger kitchen (the "Leaf" relocated to the corner of 89th and Roosevelt in 1999), Rip's again putting his signature on a menu that once had 'em standing in line halfway around the block. Meanwhile, Albert's mixing cocktails, tapping kegs — and, as always, turning up the tunes. In addition to 12 draft beers and 25 wines by the glass, the Maple Leaf now serves weekend brunch from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Lunch is offered Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. with dinner served Monday through Saturday till 10 p.m., Sunday till 9 p.m.

Look mom! No strip mall! Ristorante Italianissimo said arrivederci to its strip-mall location last week, relocating a mile or so east of downtown Woodinville to spiffy new digs. With two days' downtime, the transition between restaurants was swift, but it's been a long haul for owner/chef Kent Betts given the time it took to gut and rebuild on the site that once housed a Buzz Inn. It was worth the wait for Betts and his wife, Cindy, who have recreated their beloved Italian restaurant with no changes to menu or staff, but plenty of physical changes to draw longtime fans and newcomers alike.

With seating for 150 guests, Italianissimo (at 15608 Woodinville-Duvall Place; 425-485-6888) now offers a lounge, wine cellar, private dining for 20, outdoor seating, plenty of parking and the same neighborhood-restaurant charm in what Kent Betts calls a "more serious" restaurant setting. Those serious about good food and fine Italian wine know they can find it here. Lunch is served Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Dinner is served from 4 to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 4 to 10 p.m. Friday; 5 to 10 p.m. Saturday and 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday (with extended hours in the lounge).

So, what's to become of the vacated Italianissimo space? After some minor cosmetic changes, a mid-June opening is planned for Café Fresco (17650 140th Ave. N.E., Woodinville) — a "more casual" offshoot of Italianissimo, with table service and a "lower price-point," says Betts. Pizza and sandwiches should appeal to families as well as business-folk looking for a less-than-leisurely lunch (served Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.). Dinner, with "nothing over $15" according to Betts, will be offered Monday through Thursday from 5 to 9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday till 10 p.m., Sunday 5 to 9:30 p.m.

Those wondering what's to become of the North End's vacated Neo Bistro site (14053 Greenwood Ave. N., Seattle) need wonder no more. And those of you needing a translation after having seen the marquee posted outside (it reads: "Bick's Tonight Here Autumn") can stop scratching your heads. Greg Beckley, owner of nearby Bick's Broadview Grill (10555 Greenwood Ave. N., Seattle; 206-367-8481) has taken over this spot near the Highlands. "With luck we'll be open by autumn," says Beckley, who is slowly renovating his new restaurant.

"Since we don't have any money, we have to invest time in it," he says. "But most importantly, we don't have a staff yet. We're on the lookout for anybody who'd like to work in a neighborhood dinner house, so if you know of anyone, send them into Bick's to talk." Will do, Greg. And I'll be sure to tell them to spice up their life and grab a beer and a bite at Bick's while they're at it.

Nancy Leson can be reached at 206-464-8838 or nleson@seattletimes.com. More columns at www.seattletimes.com/columnists.