Mythic Ingredient: A beautiful flower and an ancient symbol, the lotus is also an edible plant
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At a bakery that is a fixture of San Francisco's Chinatown, I tasted lotus-seed paste for the first time. I was buying an assortment of Chinese pastries made with flaky dough and filled with the sweetened paste of winter melon, mung bean or lotus seed. For those of us accustomed to the fruit- or nut-based flavors of European baking, the East Asian vegetable-based fillings are intriguing. But for me, the amber-colored lotus-seed paste had another appeal — the novelty of eating a part of Asia's most celebrated flower.
The lotus occupies a niche in religion, art and literature that is perhaps unequaled by any other flower. It is a striking flower by any reckoning: large (up to 10 inches across), beautiful and fragrant. The Indian lotus is white or pink, and the smaller North American lotus is yellow. They are related to the more frequently seen water lily, which has more angular petals and comes in a range of hues, including blue.
For thousands of years, the aquatic lotus was sacred to the Egyptians, Indians and Chinese. It was a central motif in the creation myths of ancient Egypt and India. Later in India, it was associated with Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth, whose beauty was described in terms of the lotus flower.
With the advent of Buddhism in India, the many-petalled lotus acquired more profound symbolism. The flower that once represented the unfolding of the physical universe came to express the blossoming of the inner cosmos, or human consciousness. Because the lotus flower grows in mud but rises above the water to bloom in spotless purity, it became a symbol of the person who transcends worldly attachments and develops spiritual potential to the fullest.
As Buddhism spread to Southeast Asia and East Asia, the symbolism of the lotus traveled with it, and the flower became a pan-Asian symbol of purity, beauty and spiritual consciousness.
None of this lofty symbolism, however, prevented the people of these countries from eating the lotus. The writings of K'ung Fu-tzu (Confucius) show that the plant was consumed in China as early as the 5th century B.C. Even today, many parts of the lotus are used, both as food and medicine.
The most popular part of the plant for food seems to be the beige-colored root, which looks like gigantic sausage links. Similar in taste to jicama but somewhat more fibrous, lotus root holds its shape and texture well, even through long cooking.
The Indians of Kashmir make curry of lotus root or braise it with greens and spices. The Chinese add it to soups with pork bones or duck, plus vegetables such as winter melon and mushrooms. Both the Chinese and Japanese prepare the root in some similar ways. They boil and marinate it to serve as salad, batter fry it or stuff the channels in the root — the Chinese with glutinous rice before boiling, and the Japanese with adzuki-bean paste afterward.
Lotus seeds, which can be eaten fresh or dried for later use, are less widely consumed. The Thais add them to desserts. The Chinese candy them during Chinese New Year in February, and you can spot them, resembling frosted garbanzo beans, in Seattle's International District. Lotus-seed paste, with a flavor reminiscent of caramel, is the traditional filling for moon cakes made during the Chinese Mid-Autumn Festival in October.
Lotus leaves can be cooked as greens when fresh. The Chinese use them, fresh or dried, to wrap small parcels of food before steaming, to impart a subtle flavor and aroma. A dim sum favorite, for example, is a mixture of rice, chicken, dried shrimp, Chinese sausage, mushrooms and scallions wrapped in lotus leaf.
The lotus flower itself is rarely eaten. But the graceful petals are sometimes used as a decorative garnish, much like rose petals.
In both Indian and Chinese native medical practice, eating lotus is also considered a benefit to the physiology. Various parts of the plant are used to treat different ailments. Lotus seeds accompany other herbs in several long-simmered Chinese medicinal drinks, and lotus root boiled in a simple soup is a Chinese folk remedy for dispelling internal heat.
With so many uses and such beauty, it's little wonder this ancient plant continues to nourish both body and soul.
Lotus Root Curry
Serves 4 to 6
Based on a Thai curry, this is an unusual but flavorful way of eating lotus root. It keeps well refrigerated for a few days and actually tastes better the second day, when the flavors have had a chance to meld. All the ingredients can be purchased at International District markets. Serve this dish with plain white rice and a simple cucumber salad.
-- 1 1/4 pound lotus root (3 segments)
-- 3 1/2 cups potatoes
-- 1 (13.5-ounce) can of coconut milk*
-- 1/4 cup Thai yellow curry paste**
-- 1/2 cup onion, sliced or diced
-- 1 tablespoon coconut, palm or regular sugar
-- 2 to 3 teaspoons salt or Thai fish sauce, to taste
-- 1/2 cup well-packed cilantro leaves and stems, coarsely chopped
-- 1 cup well-packed holy (Thai) basil leaves
-- Extra basil leaves and cilantro sprigs for garnish
1. Rinse lotus roots and cut near the "necks," discarding them. Rinse well. Peel and slice crosswise into 1/8-inch-thick slices. Submerge slices in water, preferably with some lemon juice or vinegar added.
2. If using new potatoes, scrub well; otherwise, peel. Cut into ½-inch pieces.
3. Open the can of coconut milk and spoon the thicker, creamier milk that collects at the top into a large saucepan. Cook on medium heat until well-heated (droplets of oil may appear on the surface of the coconut milk). Add curry paste and cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes.
4. Add onion and drained lotus root. Raise temperature and cook, stirring frequently, for about 5 minutes.
5. Add remaining coconut milk, plus a can or more of water to cover the lotus root. Lower heat, cover and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
6. Add potatoes, cover and simmer another 15 minutes or until potatoes are done, stirring occasionally.
7. Add sugar and salt or fish sauce and mix well. Remove from heat, then cool to serving temperature. Add cilantro and basil and mix. Garnish with extra basil leaves and cilantro sprigs, if desired.
* Savoy, Mr. Coco or Mae Ploy brand recommended
** Mae Ploy brand recommended
Andrew A. Jayasundera is a publications specialist and freelance writer. His e-mail address is andrewjaya@hotmail.com.