(Triple) Crme of the Crop: When it comes to indulgences, these cheeses have no equal
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Ripened to perfection, a "triple-crème" cheese is to "fromage" what a flourless chocolate torte is to cake: rich, sensuous and impossible to resist. Fashioned after the traditional Brie or Camembert, most triple-crème cheeses have a thin, slightly bitter rind embracing a soft, sumptuous center. So what’s the difference? Well, when it’s called a triple-crème, it really means, triple the cream.
Triple-crèmes scale the heights of indulgence with an unrivaled texture conjured from the age-old alchemy of milk, enzymes and time: stirring thick cream into the milk curds during production. The resulting cheese — dense, delicious and luxurious — puts a new spin on "I can’t believe it’s not butter."
A triple-crème weighs in at a whopping two times the fat content of your average Brie or Camembert. In France, to qualify as a true triple-crème, the cheese must contain a minimum of 75 percent butterfat — by law! While the French legal codes enforce dietary indiscretions, cholesterol-conscious Americans are sure to brand this cheese politically incorrect. But before banning it from the cheese board, consider that triple-crèmes offer many inherent rewards.
Seeking out serious cheese engages your senses and your spirit of adventure. Triple-crèmes are no exception. You won’t find them next to the flavored bagel schmeers at your regular grocery store. They’re stocked at the gourmet shops, the "fromager," a store dedicated to selling cheese, or cheese counter at a high-brow market. I’ve found when approaching a cheese counter, asking for triple crèmes is like knowing the secret handshake of an elite club. You’re among culinary compadres who live by adages such as "I’m worth it" and "You only live once."
Despite the somewhat regrettable title, the cheese monger is the expert, the buyer and therefore someone to be on friendly terms with. You can rely on such an expert to steer you toward your favorite flavors, new arrivals worthy of sampling or a wedge that’s ready to take home and eat that very night. Because the majority of these cheeses are soft-ripened, maturing from the outside in, they are generally sold pre-sliced and wrapped. Therefore, it’s a little more difficult to determine whether they’re ripe. "You don’t want pieces that look soupy; the cheese should retain its shape," advises Sam Carpenter of the Specialty Foods team at Whole Foods Market. If it’s too runny, most likely it’s too far gone, but don’t be shy of a cheese whose sides are just beginning to melt away.
My French mother, a lover of strong, stinky cheeses, contends, "a good cheese is one that can get up and walk on its own." That’s a lot to ask of the portly triple-crèmes. They tend to be more subtle cheeses, both in bouquet and in flavor. One spectacular exception is Castello Blue. This Danish blue cheese is smooth and buttery, sharp and tangy, a dangerously divine combination.
Triple-crèmes are a select few, so you’ll be hard-pressed to find more than half a dozen at a single cheese counter. The selection broadens, however, should you venture into the double-crèmes. At a mere 60 to 74 percent butterfat, they’re still sinfully tasty and maintain a velvety texture. They also might relieve a bit of guilt.
All these "petits fromages" bring elegance to the table. Even their names appeal and intrigue. The Brillat Savarin is named for France’s celebrated author of gourmandise. Pavé d’Affinois pulls no punches, translating, literally, as "the brick" from producer Affinois.
Even when you’ve settled on something, the adventure doesn’t end, as I recently found out. More than likely, you’ll be enjoying your cheese with wine, the sacred union of gastronomy. And since subtleties are what make a happy marriage, you might expect that it’s hard to strike a balance with these cheeses. Even the experts don’t quite agree.
Albeit with great reservations, I went with the suggestion to try something sweet, such as riesling, dessert wine or port. The big fruit complements the saltiness of the cheese, a harmony of flavors that resonates on your tongue. Sam Carpenter summed it up simply: "An elegant ending to a meal."
With so few days left in this season of indulgence, it’s time to set out and discover your own elegant, happy ending.
Triple-Crèmes
1. Pierre Robert: A very mild cheese, this is truly the closest thing there is to butter.
2. Explorateur: The saltiest of its kind, this is a tough match for wine, but wonderful on a fresh baguette.
3. Brillat Savarin: Soft and a bit salty, this cheese is unusual for its slightly "yeasty" flavor.
4. Castello Blue: Crumbles a bit like a blue cheese; folded into other triple-crèmes, the contrast is perfect.
Double-Crèmes
1. Pavé d’Affinois: A subtle one, but this little "brick" takes first place for velvety texture.
2. Hudson Valley Camembert: The creative mixture of sheep’s milks and cream from cow’s milk makes for a nutty flavor.
Jacqueline Koch is a writer and photographer living on Whidbey Island.