Langley: a ferry ride and a world away
LANGLEY, Island County — The town of Langley on Whidbey Island is only 90 minutes from Seattle if you time the traffic and ferry just right.
But Langley is a world away in mood, a relaxed waterfront town of 1,000 that runs on easygoing island time and where almost everyone has the time to chat.
Ben Reams is the harbormaster at the Langley marina, where locals and visitors come to fish; stroll the docks to see the boats; or just enjoy the view east across the water to the Cascade peaks on the mainland.
Reams is proud of the marina, and he's on the job day and night since he lives on his powerboat.
"I've got 34 spots for boats here. And in the summer it was full up," said Reams, who's been harbormaster for 16 years.
"You're close together, but it's a nice crowd. We're even getting DSL for those big Microsoft boats that come in. Already got an Internet hookup, but we're going high-speed."
He'd keep on cheerfully talking, but a crab boat was nosing into the docks on a sunny fall afternoon, and Reams had to go greet its skipper.
From the marina, it's just a five-minute walk to First Street, Langley's main street. It's an upscale, but homey, two-block stretch of low buildings filled with antique stores, art galleries and gourmet restaurants that can quickly empty the wallets of boaters — or boatless visitors who come for the weekend and stay in one of the town's inns or B&Bs.
Being one of the boatless, I did the next best thing and stayed in Langley's Boatyard Inn.
The 10-unit, two-story inn, built out of corrugated iron and weathered wood to resemble a traditional boatyard building, sits right on the beach just a few steps from the marina and next door to a still-working boatyard. (On the other side of the inn are a tumbledown store and private dock that have been bought by a local businesswoman and are due to be rebuilt.)
Once I walked into my room, I wanted to stay for a week instead of just a night.
Big windows and a deck opened to the sea, just 10 feet away at high tide. I fell asleep to the lapping of waves and woke up to a golden sunrise and the call of sea gulls.
A comfortable couch and chair faced a gas fireplace; the queen bed was raised on a platform to give a view of Saratoga Passage and passing boats.
Up a narrow flight of stairs was a loft with another queen bed and second bathroom. A compact but well-stocked kitchenette was just right for making breakfast or light meals.
Sprawling on the couch, I regretted having previously arranged to eat dinner at Café Langley, a popular gourmet restaurant. I would been just as happy getting takeout food from the town's trendy Star grocery store and eating at my room's windowfront dining table.
Some guests do hole up for a week at the Boatyard, said innkeeper Mynda Myres, especially visitors from California.
The Boatyard Inn is part of a local lodging mini-empire of Seattle Mayor Paul Schell. He's a part owner of the Boatyard and helped design the 7-year-old inn, said Myres.
Schell also owns the Inn at Langley, a luxurious 24-room inn with a spa and elegant restaurant at the other end of town, and he's a partner in the equally posh Friday Harbor House on San Juan Island.
At least when he's mayor no more, Schell has lovely places to go.
IF YOU GO
Getting to Langley: Drive to Mukilteo (about 30 minutes from downtown Seattle) and take the ferry to Clinton on south Whidbey Island. The crossing takes about 20 minutes, and ferries depart every half-hour. It's about a 10- to 15-minute drive to Langley from the Clinton ferry landing (follow Highway 525 then turn east on Langley Road). Washington State Ferries information: 206-464-6400, www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries/.
Where to stay:
The Boatyard Inn: The beachfront inn has four lofts and six smaller studio units (two with limited views). Lofts are nicest. They're airy, bright and on the top floor, which means you won't have the noise of anyone tromping overhead (in the wood-frame building, footsteps and plumbing noise do carry).
Weekend rates are $210 for a loft; $165 for studio. Sunday through Thursday nights, rates are reduced to $165 for a loft, $125 for a studio.
More information: Boatyard Inn, 200 Wharf Street, P.O. Box 866, Langley, WA 98260. Phone 360-221-5120. Web: www.boatyardinn.com
Other accommodations: There are about a dozen inns and B&Bs in Langley, and more in the surrounding area.
To get accommodations listings, contact the Langley-South Whidbey Chamber of Commerce: 360-221-5676; www.whidbey.com/langley. Or check www.whidbey.net and click on "Visitors Guide." It gives links to the Web sites of many Langley-area accommodations.
Where to eat: You won't go hungry in Langley, which takes food seriously. Here are some places to eat on First Street:
• Café Langley has Mediterranean-inspired food; its lamb and seafood are particularly good. Figure on about $30 per person for dinner.
• Next door (and upstairs) the Star Bistro is less pricey, has a better view — especially from its terrace in warm weather — and offers salads, pasta, seafood and more.
• The Dog House restaurant is a budget place — think burgers — with a million-dollar view of Saratoga Passage. Or just stick to beer in its funky, pool-table bar.
• The Village Pizzeria has decent pizza. It's a good bet if you're traveling with kids.
What to do in Langley: Browse the dozen antique shops and art galleries (glass art is big) along First Street.
Walk along the beach for a few blocks in the Seawall Park at the base of the town's bluff.
For a little culture, the town's Whidbey Island Center for the Arts offers concerts and theater. 800-638-7631. www.whidbey.net/wica
If you want to plan ahead, on Feb. 23-24 Langley hosts its Mystery Weekend, a contest of solving a fictional "whodunit" with clues scattered around the town. Check the chamber of commerce Web site for more information, www.whidbey.com/langley/.
To the winery: A five-minute drive south of Langley is the Whidbey Island Winery. It has a pleasant tasting room and small shop (open noon to 5 p.m., Wednesday through Sunday) in the midst of the vineyard. (The winery's fruity Siegerrebe is my favorite of its white wines I've tasted.) 360-221-2040. www.whidbeyislandwinery.com
Kristin Jackson can be reached at 206-464-2271. E-mail: kjackson@seattletimes.com