Houseboat haven: A Hood Canal getaway keeps romance afloat
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BRINNON, Jefferson County — Elaine and Jade Michaels claim they rent out houseboats by the night. In reality they market romance.
Their House Boats for Two, with craft moored in Pleasant Harbor Marina on the Olympic Peninsula side of Hood Canal, welcomes couples. And couples only.
No children and no pets are allowed aboard the luxurious berth-and-breakfast boats, priced to suit special occasions such as anniversaries or birthdays.
"We want you to enjoy one another without distractions," said Jade Michaels. "We created House Boats for Two for adults and romance."
The concept, he said, was to make an adult getaway that was far enough from the city that people would consider it an adventure but close enough to drive in a few hours.
Don't worry about sailing these houseboats. They are semi-permanently moored at the marina dock. You get the sensation and peace of being on the water by looking out the windows as the tide ebbs and flows.
An adult playhouse
Check-in time is 3 p.m., and Jade Michaels welcomes guests as they arrive at the marina. A quick tour includes getting the gate code to the shoreside outdoor pool and hot tub for late-night relaxing (the pool and hot tub are open through October). Then he doubles as the bellman, ferrying your luggage to the houseboat.
Once at the boat, he becomes a proud local promoter, whipping out a map, circling points of interest and recommending restaurants. Michaels will even make your dinner reservations at the area's top restaurant, Ajax Café, up the highway in Port Hadlock. He then gives guests a tour of the boat, beaming with pride at the comments about the sparkling interior and woodwork.
Although each houseboat Michaels adds to the fleet is larger than the previous one, like most boats these interiors are cozy and efficient. Think of an adult playhouse with everything perfectly designed to fit in small places, and you'll understand why you shouldn't bring much luggage. Leave your hiking boots and jackets in the car.
The two-person jetted tub, snug against windows that look out at the harbor and the wooded shore beyond, is one step away from the queen-size berth. Amenities include plush terry robes, bedtime chocolates and oversized towels for the spa tub.
Loveseats are just large enough for cuddling or sharing popcorn while watching a complimentary video on the television.
"A lot of wives hand me the television clicker," Michaels said. (I resisted that temptation because of the horrified look on my husband's face. He gets seasick and just getting him to agree to a houseboat adventure was challenging.)
Each boat has a CD player and a small, free-standing gas fireplace that is operated by a thermostat so you don't have to fumble with matches and wood. The microwave in the galley works well for popcorn, and the outdoor gas grill barbecues a great steak, but forget anything else. There's no stove — a perfect vacation for the cook. A rack near the galley holds the boat's binoculars. (We used them to watch an eagle, osprey and heron.)
Unlike most boats, the bathrooms have standard-sized showers and fixtures.
Salmon jumping nearby
The Michaels encourage romantic celebrations by tucking a bottle of champagne or sparkling cider into the galley refrigerator — your choice when you make your reservation. You also get to name your juice and soft-drink preferences.
You don't even have to measure coffee in the morning. The pot is set up; you just need to hit the "on" button. Your oversized breakfast muffins will be in a basket in the refrigerator. We resisted the temptation to graze through a large basket of complimentary chips and snacks.
I was up early and sat on the houseboat deck with my coffee. The marina was still and silent except for the occasional call of a bird or salmon jumping nearby.
If you're celebrating an anniversary, birthday or a honeymoon, the Michaels will add flowers or cake to your package. Plan your trip carefully, allowing time to stop for meals or arrive in Brinnon early enough that nearby restaurants are still open.
We started the two-plus-hour trip to Brinnon late. By the time we arrived, midevening on a weekday, the one restaurant in Brinnon and the Seabeck Pizza Co. outlet at the marina were both closed. We opted for microwave fare from the general store/gas station rather than drive the 20 minutes back to Quilcene.
A mistake indeed — when you're passing up Quilcene oysters. We should have had breakfast, lunch and dinner there. Maybe not dinner. Take the Michaels' recommendation and eat dinner at the excellent Ajax Café in Port Hadlock, about a 40-minute drive along country roads. Main dishes run $14-$19.
Fish and chips with a view
We spent several hours exploring the area, including finding barely used state- and national-park campgrounds, stumbling over hippie enclaves and doing the required oohing and aahing over the fantastic scenery. At the Michaels' urging, we went to Rockybrook Falls. Get precise directions because there are no signs marking the parking lot and trail to this 100-foot falls.
I was stunned by the immensity and immediacy of the falls. You hike less than a quarter-mile along a trail, turn a corner by some big boulders and suddenly, 20 feet ahead, the water cascades over a 100-foot rock wall. The waterfall is ideal for nonhikers because it is close to the road.
Mount Walker, another scenic viewpoint, requires no hiking. You can drive to the top. Michaels recommends picking up fish and chips in Quilcene or pizza at the marina and heading to the viewpoint for lunch. The turnoff is just south of Quilcene. A narrow road, much of it one lane, winds to viewpoints that offer views of Seattle, Kitsap Peninsula, Mount Baker and Mount Rainier.
That's on a clear day. We had a great inside view of clouds.
Michaels claims the viewpoint is another romantic spot. He should know.
He and his wife lived apart from the time they opened the first houseboat in 1994 until just last month. Elaine worked in Southern California while Jade established the Houseboats for Two business.
"I'm the world's greatest romantic," Michaels said. "Elaine and I sent one another cards all the time."
He framed many of his favorites and uses them to decorate the walls in the houseboats. Whenever he talks about their business, Elaine's name comes first.
"We're thrilled we're both living here full time," Michaels said.
They share their romantic spirit in the checkout policy posted on the wall.
"When it is time to go, collect your memories, your things and each other. Leave the key on the counter, close the door and with one last look, make a promise to come back soon!
"Thanks again, Elaine and Jade."
Sherry Grindeland can be reached at 206-515-5633 or sgrindeland@seattletimes.com.
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