Metal rod is for water shutoff valve
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Q: A rusty square-shaped metal rod sticks up vertically from the ground, about 10 inches tall, very close to the foundation wall at the front of my home. It makes a 90-degree turn at the top. What is it? The house is a 1953 rambler in Kirkland.
A: Located less than two feet from the edge of the house, it is an underground fresh-water shut-off valve. The rod connects to the valve, at least 24 inches below the surface. Galvanized steel waterlines between the water meter and the house sometimes had these valves installed, usually when the building lacked an internal shut-off valve.
Don't touch it. If you try to move it in either direction you will likely cause it to spring a leak, as they are so very prone to do. These valves get very rusty and brittle in the dirt. If you need to turn off the water to the house, do it at the meter.
Q: I have a 52-gallon electric water heater and wonder if it would be a problem to click it off at the breaker just before taking my morning shower. I could turn it back on after arriving home from work, heating the water up in time to do dishes etc. Would this wear the water heater out more quickly?
A: No. No extra wear or problems should be expected. You may in fact get almost imperceptibly longer tank life due to less mineral deposition and corrosion (a cooler average temperature over the life of the tank). With gas water heaters, the same effect can be realized by turning the thermostat down to the "vacation" setting.
In either case you will have a 10- to 30-minute wait for hot water when you get back home, with the gas models having a quicker recovery time.
The energy you save will be the amount that would have been wasted during the day keeping the water up to temperature. Storage losses, in other words. The actual amount of storage loss would depend on desired water temperature, age and location of the water heater - with a newer model obviously losing less during the course of the day.
If the water heater is located inside the heated area of the home, during nonsummer months those storage-heat losses are partially recovered and serve to keep the interior of the home warmer, if only slightly. Turning it off during the summer (again if located inside) will serve double duty - saving energy and keeping the house cooler.
Just don't come home dead tired expecting a soak in the tub.
Side note: I am not a big fan of exterior water-heater insulating blankets. On gas models they tend to be installed exuberantly, blocking flow of intake and exhaust air, sometimes becoming a marginal fire hazard. On both gas and electric, they hold moisture against the tank housing and connection nipples, increasing the onset of rust and corrosion.
Q: We have a brick house that looks terrible due to crumbling brick and mortar. We were planning on putting EIFS (synthetic stucco) over it during a remodel. I read your recent articles and am having second thoughts. Would this be a good idea?
A: Interestingly enough, EIFS got its start in post-WWII Europe covering war-damaged masonry and brick buildings. The foam material beneath the finish reduced surface irregularities, added much needed insulation to the wall, and looked good. EIFS worked flawlessly in these applications. When we took that proven technology and applied it to wood-framed buildings without considering the differences, problems occurred.
Q: I just installed a new three-hole kitchen sink faucet on a metal sink. Unlike you Mr. Hay, I followed the directions precisely, added the supplied plastic gasket beneath and tightened the whole thing well. I proceeded to connect all the lines exactly as it directed. It now leaks at the base from splashing or any water that happens to run down to the base of the faucet. What do I do now?
A: Seal the sink at the base of the faucet above and below the gasket (which in reality serves more as a template and scratch reducer) with silicone caulking. After that is accomplished, be a man and toss the directions in the trash.
Q: My septic pumping man recommends pumping the 1,250-gallon tank every four years for our level of use (judging this from the level of sludge built up in the tank). During our conversation, he suggested using some event that occurs every four years to be used as a reminder to pump the solid waste. Seeing as how the contents of the tank and the presidential elections have much in common, I thought that to be a good reminder. I also figured you might appreciate the tip.
A: You figured right. The Olympics (summer and/or winter) make good four-year reminders too. What I like about your political recollection regime is that it can be customized to fit any pumping schedule.
Q: We've had our ventless gas fireplace for seven years, and its appearance, convenience and performance have only been marred by wet windows. What do you recommend?
A: The more it runs, the more moisture it puts into the air. Simple as that. You may be able to turn down the flame height if the control valve comes with a flame-height adjustment screw. Reducing the flame, also reduces the heat and puts less moisture into the air during a given amount of run time.
Darrell Hay answers readers' questions. Call 206-464-8514 to record your question. Or e-mail dhay@seattletimes.com. Sorry, no personal replies.