Taste test separates packaged tortillas
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In this imperfect world, we rely on packaged flour tortillas stashed in the back of the refrigerator for emergencies. Whether destined for an impromptu quesadilla of Manchego cheese and thinly sliced red onion, an on-the-run breakfast burrito or a simple vehicle for guacamole, they serve as a platform for other flavors.
Given their supporting role, we ask precious little from them. They should be thick and elastic enough to wrap around a slice of grilled chicken without ripping, yet thin enough so that when folded around cheese and heated, the cheese has a chance to melt before the exterior becomes brittle and scorched.
And, unlike most foods, tortillas should be somewhat bland so as not to detract from the more-substantive ingredients, yet enticing enough to nibble as an afterthought.
Caveat: Although we appreciate the slightly nutty flavor that whole-wheat flour imparts, it can be distracting. As for those trendy colored and flavored tortillas, we consider them truly laughable.
In our blind taste test of 15 flour tortillas, we found a few that were flavorful on their own, but far more that smacked of artificial flavors.
Value is difficult to pinpoint since there is no standard thickness, weight or size governing packages of tortillas (from the diminutive soft taco to the enormous burrito). Accordingly, prices range from 78 cents to $4.75 per package.
Exceptional
Goya - These fresh-tasting tortillas boasted layer after layer of flaky goodness and tasted doughy in a good way. A very respectable packaged tortilla.
Trader Joe's - We liked the light, flaky texture and slightly salty flavor. The surface had a semblance of being homemade while the elasticity suggested the appropriate oil content.
We caught ourselves nibbling these straight from the package.
Acceptable
Casa Blanca - This tortilla had a homemade quality with its misshapen appearance and mild, bland flavor (not necessarily a bad thing in a tortilla).
On the downside, we found them to be slightly dry.
Mission - The "98 percent fat-free" tortilla had an attractive appearance and texture, and a perfectly salted flavor. The aftertaste, however, was unpleasant. The "traditional" tortilla had an off flavor that some thought was wheat, others sugar and still others baking powder.
Old El Paso - We imagine that kids would like this thick, dense, but still-flaky tortilla because of its hint of sweetness. The first thing that adults will taste is baking powder.
Pepito - Much better than average, these were very flaky with no discernible flavor whatsoever.
Unacceptable
Chef Garcia - The "best used by" date indicated that these dense, elastic tortillas should be fresh for another two months. But we found them to be stale, not to mention artificial tasting.
La Banderita - This brand conveyed everything unnatural, from the aroma of preservatives to the unusually slick feel. No wonder; the ingredients list was longer than any other brand.
Leona's - These thick, gummy tortillas reminded us of salty Swedish pancakes (without the camouflaging benefit of butter and jam).
La Pinata - Surprising how something so thin could be so unappealing and chewy. Forgettable.
Manny's - Our least favorite in every category. Almost blackened in places, it tasted stale and had a wretched aftertaste.
Richfood - Way too thick with an artificial smell and flavor.
Taco Bell Home Originals - Thick and flaky layers with a nice elasticity. But we were turned off by the curious sweetness, as well as the bitter aftertaste and slick surface.
Tumaro's Homestyle Kitchens - The appearance was very promising. But we were disappointed by the too-chewy texture and the sweet and bitter aftertastes. Not bad for those seeking low-fat and organic.
Whole Foods Organic Tortillas - These tortillas may be organic, but they're also entirely unpalatable. The "traditional" tortillas were thick and gummy. The "fat-free" tortillas were dry and reminiscent of cardboard.
(Some of these brand may not be readily available in Seattle-area stores.)