In search of Vietnamese food: pho, fresh, flavorful
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Looking for an introduction to Seattle's Vietnamese food scene, reader Bruce Osborn posed this question: "My wife and I became interested in Vietnamese cuisine after seeing a travel program on CNN. It showed a group of American chefs and food writers traveling to many different parts of Vietnam. The Americans seemed quite impressed with the food they sampled and were astonished by the wide variety of fresh ingredients - fish, fruits, vegetables, herbs - that were available in the local markets. We are trying to locate a good Vietnamese restaurant in the International District but don't know a single one. A recommendation would be greatly appreciated."
Vietnam, whose foods are influenced by region and by its culinary capitols, Hanoi, Hue and Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City), incorporates the cooking style and flavors of China and France and, in the south, the herbs and spices of India. Fortunately, Seattle has much to offer when it comes to this beautiful, healthful and intriguing cuisine.
A dozen years ago, curiosity got the better of me as I stopped for a red light at the junction of Rainier, Boren and Jackson streets. There sat Pho Bac (1314 S. Jackson St.; 206-323-4387), a shocking pink shack, funky as all get-out. I stopped, walked in, asked for a menu and was told that there was no menu, only soup.
Today, that soup - pho (pronounced "fuh"), the national dish of Vietnam - is available all over town at all hours of the day, but I'll always have a soft spot for Pho Bac, where I lost my Vietnamese-food virginity.
Pho Bac is located in what has come to be called "Little Saigon," a short walk from the heart of the International District. Here, broad bowls of star anise-scented beef stock (about $5) come steaming to the table, brim full with rice noodles, onion and paper-thin slices of raw beef, which cooks through as you garnish. Add fresh bean sprouts, cilantro, basil, jalapeño and lime. Or don't. This filling fare is meant to be doctored-up to suit individual tastes. On the table are condiments: among them, sweet hoisin sauce, fragrant nuoc mam (fish sauce) and spicy chile paste. Dabble as your tongue sees fit.
If I were in the market for a young Vietnamese beau, a Washington State Lottery ticket and a serious case of secondary smoke inhalation, I'd head straight for Buu Dien (923 S. Jackson St., 206-233-9001) - which is where you should go for banh mi, the best cheap sandwich in town. A buck-fifty buys Vietnamese fast food: a toasted French roll with mayo, cilantro, carrots, daikon, jalapeño and your choice of protein. Pork roll is traditional and sardines are available, but I'm partial to the chicken. Stewed with onions it's sparingly apportioned, but given the price, I'm certain you'll forgive them that.
Among the multitude of Vietnamese pho houses, banh mi shops and cafes that jam every crowded strip mall in this neighborhood is Huong Binh (1207 S. Jackson St.; 206-720-4907). This, I believe, is the answer to your "good restaurant" question. The menu is modest in scope and big on soups, stir-fries and noodle- or rice-based dishes featuring grilled meats, shrimp, vegetables and herbs. This friendly, tidy and eminently efficient family-run café is often crowded (entrée prices average about $5, why wouldn't it be?), and jostling for a parking space is no fun, so I prefer to eat here during off-hours. Though I've liked everything I've tried - and, over the years I've tried much of the menu - my favorite dish is still bun thit nuong (aka No. 17), marinated charbroiled pork with rice noodles - an easy introduction to Vietnamese food for the less adventurous.
Down the block is Viet Wah Supermarket (1032 S. Jackson St., 206-369-1399), which is one cheap ticket to Vietnamese grocery-store paradise, and well worth a walking tour. Scratch that: you'd be a fool to leave before checking out - and checking out with - some of those fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs you saw on TV. A trip down the noodle and condiment aisles would be a good idea, too; you'll be amazed what a few carefully chosen Asian condiments can do for your pantry and home-cooking repertoire. By the way, the entrance to one of the city's largest and most popular Vietnamese restaurants, Saigon Bistro (1032 S. Jackson, Suite 2; 206-329-4939), is hidden directly behind Viet Wah. Known for its extensive menu and its view of Safeco Field and Amazon Central, it's another must-stop on your culinary tour.
Though it's not in the International District, I'd be remiss if I didn't tell you about Monsoon (615 19th Ave. E., Seattle; 206-325-2111) - the most exciting Vietnamese restaurant in the city. Saigon-born siblings Sophie, Eric and Yen Banh run this small Capitol Hill bistro. Open two years, Monsoon has rightfully become a destination dining spot. From steamed Alaskan halibut with lily buds and oyster mushrooms ($16) to mesquite-grilled lemongrass pork tenderloin ($9), to a wine list carefully chosen to complement their seasonal menu, Monsoon offers the perfect marriage of Vietnamese flavors and Seattle food savvy.
Stockley honored
Wine aficionados at the private Columbia Tower Club unveiled their new wine cellar last night, dedicating it to the life, memory and good works of former Seattle Times wine columnist Tom Stockley, who died last year with his beloved wife, Peggy, in the crash of Alaska Airlines Flight 261. When confronted with a glass of water, Tom would say, "I never touch the stuff. More people on this planet have died from drinking water than drinking wine!"
Honoring Tom for 30 years spent chronicling the development and growth of Washington wineries, members of the Columbia Tower Club toasted him for "sparking creativity and imagination among Washington's winemakers by coaxing, cajoling and encouraging vintners to strive for the highest quality in their wines."
The highest cellar in the land now boasts Tom Stockley's name - and 4,800 bottles.