Walk, talk, sleep with the llamas
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TROUT LAKE - Lodging with the livestock comes with the territory at the Llama Ranch Bed and Breakfast in Mount Adams country.
The B&B, owned by Jerry Stone and Dee Kern, is home to 100 resident llamas - one per acre on the 100-acre Llama Ranch spread. Guests are invited to go hiking with the shaggy, lovable animals, whom Stone describes as "serene, dignified and beautiful."
"Sometimes," he says, "I think I almost feel a spiritual connection with them."
The couple started with three llamas in 1984 and the herd grew from there. Stone and Kern were teachers before they decided to become innkeepers and llama owners. The B&B, just across a driveway from the llama pens, has six small units in what used to be a Montessori classroom.
Why a B&B?
"Because we get to stay home," Stone said." Why llamas? "Because they're wonderful."
Llama Ranch B&B is on State Route 141, about 19 miles north of White Salmon and the Columbia River. Sprawling Mount Adams is five miles farther north, just beyond the tiny timber town of Trout Lake.
On a clear day, guests get a close-up view of Mount Adams and Oregon's Mount Hood, across the Columbia River.
Jerry Stone once climbed to the top of 12,276-foot-high Mount Adams - with a llama, but the animals don't roam beyond the ranch anymore.
Stone says he no longer has time to guide llama trips, but there are plenty of trails on the ranch for guests to enjoy walks through a pine forest sprinkled with meadows and ponds.
Visiting llamas are welcome. Some are returnees, back home for breeding. Others are family traveling companions. Free room and board for guest llamas is part of the package.
The ranch is at an elevation of 1,800 feet, high enough for snow when conditions are right, and Llama Ranch B&B is open all year. Winter sports include cross-country skiing, snowmobiling and snowshoeing.
During snow-free seasons, Stone and Kern help guests plan driving tours and hikes through the Mount Adams back country. Other activities in the area include whitewater rafting on the White Salmon River, windsurfing on the Columbia River, horseback riding and huckleberry-picking.
It's easy to get acquainted with some of the ranch's hay-chewing hiking buddies. Proud animals with dark brown eyes as big as prunes. They communicate with soft humming sounds.
"Llamas are great," he said. "They are quiet, peaceful animals. They don't kick. They don't bite. And they don't spit, unless they are being mistreated."
Llamas are a bit shy. Stone says they don't want humans making eye contact, and they don't appreciate being petted on their heads. But it's OK to press your winter-chilled hands into their thick, warm wool.
"Just respect their space," Stone suggested.
If you go:
Getting there: Llama Ranch Bed & Breakfast is on State Route 141 in Southwest Washington's Klickitat County. Figure a drive of about two hours from Vancouver, Wash.
From Seattle: Drive south on Interstate 5 through the Columbia River Gorge on State Route 14 to White Salmon, then head north on State Route 141. The ranch is on the east side of the highway, 19.8 miles north of White Salmon and the Columbia River.
From Portland: Drive Interstate 84 east to Hood River, cross the Columbia River on the interstate bridge at Hood River, then join State Route 141 on the Washington side of the river. Bridge toll is 75 cents.
Lodging: Phone the Llama Ranch Bed & Breakfast at 509-395-2786. Rates, including breakfast, range from $79 to $99. Through mid-May, Llama Ranch is offering two nights for the price of one.