A clay pot-pourri: Cookers require care, but all produce moist, tender treasures
 |
|
||||||||||||||||||||||
A thousand years from now, archaeologists may recover fragments of nonstick skillets, covered with the loamy dirt of an ancient civilization, just as in present-day digs the remnants of terracotta cooking pots from the early Middle Ages have been unearthed. In fact, unglazed red clay cookers, such as those made by the German company Romertopf, are based on designs of ancient Etruscan pots.
Most cultures have used clay for some form of cooking pot. These pots inspire a more primitive tradition of cooking that is earthy and romantic.
Clay cookers produce the moisture of steam and the browning of roasting. Chicken, turkey and pork baked in a clay pot will make lots of juice, which can be strained and lightly thickened for a quick sauce. The meat will be tender, moist and succulent. Removing the lid during the last 10 minutes of cooking will color the food to a rich gold. Each type of clay pot has its own cachet and requires a bit of prep work and some knowledge of its properties before using.
Clay pots need some tender loving care.
Both the bottom and lid of a new Romertopf cooker should be soaked in cool water to cover for 30 minutes before the first use, and then again for 15 minutes every time it's used.
Always put the pot in a cold oven and let it heat slowly.
Remove clay pots from the oven carefully. The pots can be heavy when filled. Place both the bottom and lid on either potholders or a wood surface. Putting a hot pot onto a cold surface such as a sink may crack it.
Because unglazed clay is porous, it can be hard to clean. Scalding water and a stiff brush will remove most of the residue. For stubborn baked-on juices, fill the pot with water, add a couple of tablespoons baking soda and place in a cold oven. Set the heat to 400 degrees and bake for an hour. Then let cool and scrub again. It's tempting to use steel wool or scouring powders, but they will scratch the clay surface and will weaken the pot.
The beautiful Moroccan glazed earthenware vessels called tagines have shallow bottoms and distinctive pointed conical lids. (The word tagine also refers to stews made of meat and poultry that are cooked in these pots.) In the Middle East, tagines are placed on individual charcoal braziers, but the pots also can be used on gas or electric burners with a diffuser.
The vessel should first be cured by filling its bottom with water and adding a halved onion and a coarsely chopped carrot, plus a bay leaf and a tablespoon of olive oil. Cover and cook in a cool 275-degree oven for about 40 minutes. Let the liquid cool in the pot to room temperature before pouring it out and washing.
Cazuelas, used in Spanish, Mexican and Latin American cooking, are shallow, round dishes that are glazed on the inside only. They're probably the most versatile of the clay cookers and can be used directly on a stovetop with a diffuser or in the oven. Because the outside is left unglazed, they hold their temperature well, and are good for long, slow cooking.
A cazuela should be soaked in water for about six hours before using for the first time; then it just needs an occasional soaking to rehydrate the clay. Ranging in size from a tiny 3 inches to 18 inches in diameter, the dishes have a charming appeal that goes from stove to table.
The classic clay bean pots of Mexico called ollas are also glazed on the inside only. Dried beans cooked slowly in an olla for about two hours with water, onion, salt and a bit of lard for an authentic Mexican touch have a creamy texture and an unforgettable earthy flavor.
Mexican cooking authority Rick Bayless suggests curing an olla by washing well and rubbing the inside with a cut clove of garlic. Then fill with water and set on a diffuser over medium heat. Bring to a boil and let simmer about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat, cool and wash. If the pot hasn't been used for a while, repeat the process to put moisture back into it.
The timeless bean pot used for Boston baked beans is similar to the olla, but is glazed both inside and out. Its shape narrows at the top so that a crunchy crust can form on top when the beans are baked.
Chinese sand pots, formed from clay and sand, have creamy white unglazed exteriors that hold the heat, and glazed interiors to hold moisture.
Sand pots are used on a gas or electric burner using a diffuser and can be found with one long handle or two small, glazed loop-like handles. The tight-fitting lids are pierced with a small hole for the release of steam. The pots don't need seasoning or sealing, but should always be used with lots of liquid and put on a cold burner to heat slowly.
In "The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking," Barbara Tropp recommends that food be seared in a frying pan to color and seal in the juices before putting into the sand pot. Clean with hot water and a lightly soaped sponge and oven dry in a barely warm oven before storing.
Before buying a clay pot, check thoroughly for cracks, which will widen with heat and moisture. Softer wooden spoons and spatulas will protect the surface. Because clay is so absorbent, food should not be stored in the pots. With a little care, clay pots can last for generations.